A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE...

...I can't seem to be able to get away from the color black; so I decided to take a little Walk On The Wild Side with this fabric.
I think it's a 100% linen that I purchased it back in the spring. Guess I was really feeling my oats that day, because after getting it home I experienced one of those "what in the world was I thinking" moments. I can't actually remember what prompted me to chose a jacket as my next project, but I'm glad that I did! Nothing beats a jacket in completing a look (even when it's about to be 90 degrees and above. So after making a number of dresses E-A-S-Y in April and May I thought it was high time to venture out of "thoughtless sewing" and press ahead with expanding my skills/techniques/2010 Sewing Goals.

I've wanted to completely finish a garment in Hong Kong seams for quite some time now. I think it adds such beautiful detail to a garment, so I set that as one of my 2010 Sewing Goals. Originally I thought about using white seam binding for this jacket, but, alas my youthful sewing muse (Ebony) suggested that I take this project one step further by adding an unexpected color to make the jacket "P-O-P, so that is just what I did! I chose Canary Yellow and finished each and every exposed seam of this princess style jacket. By goley it did make it pop, and although using the Hong Kong finish was time consuming (to say the least), it was indeed well worth it. I love the finished look of any well made garment, but this I really love.

I chose to work with Butterick 5333 because of:

• it's simple lines,

• number of pattern pieces - only 7 pieces,

• it's color and lapel, which I love;

• it's front and back princess seams that prevent the jacket from looking too boxy and make fitting a lot easier;

• the three quarter sleeve because it's so hot outside; and

• the sleeve cuff that makes the jacket sort of dressy/casual.

In keeping with my norm, you know I had to add something extra to the pattern.

• Hong Kong finished seams

• covered shoulder pads,

• buttoned down vertical faux pocket flaps,

• added an extra center front button.
  

I did take the time to make a muslin because I had never used this pattern before. Afterward I found that I needed to make a center front adjustment to insure proper lap when wearing it buttoned. Lisa pin fit the muslin for me. To make this accommodation I added 1 1/4" from the lapel fold down to the hem of the jacket. I also added 1" to the 1 1/4" hem allowance, (don't ask me why, I don't remember). The only other change to this pattern was my method of a small bust adjustment that only involves taking in the front princess seams to take up the excess fullness in that area.
The results: a really nice looking jacket that the maker can be proud to wear. I am planning to make a pair of off white linen pants (fully lined) to match my walk on the wild side jacket.


I would highly recommend this Butterick wardrobe pattern, and I will be making this jacket again soon. I also plan on making the dress in this pattern if I don't run out of summer (lol).I had a wonderfully long weekend visiting my family for my first grand-child's (grand-daughter) high school graduation. Here's a graduation pose, and the bonus fabric haul from the weekend (5 blouses, 2 dresses and 2 pairs of pants)...