...I started my Fearless February project on January 19th because I knew I needed a head start. But really, what does it matter - After all I'm not in a speed race. But I have to continuously remind myself to CHILL and just ENJOY the process of what this project is all about:
- shaking up my regular sewing routine by stepping out of my comfort zone
- practicing and thus improving my tailoring techniques
There have been other eyes (people) involved in this process. My sister Pat and my niece Brenda came for a visit at the beginning of the muslin fitting stage. They helped me critique my fit as much as they could but most importantly took pictures of the back of the muslin while I was wearing it. I emailed the picture to Smoking Needles, who suggested that the sleeves needed to be raised because they extended far too much over my natural shoulder; and that it was too big in the chest area. And after studying this picture I also knew that I also needed to make a sway back alteration.
|Glad I already knew how to make the sway back adjustment. I also made an adjustment for the pulling at the top of that center back seam.|
|Much too over extended in the shoulder area|
|I'll admit, not a pretty sight!|
|Ahhhh, much better!, but also found that the sleeves were much too big overall|
I insert the majority of my sleeves flat before the side seams are sewn. I JUST LOVE THAT METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION! But of course this jacket has a two piece sleeve so there was no way around setting it in. If anyone out there knows a way to sew a two piece sleeve in flat, please let me know!
The sleeves were the #1 area that caused me fear - I'm a-scared (new made up word) of sleeve cap puckering. I received advise from two different sources and help from a video tutorial. Ebony said that although pattern instructions tell you to ease the sleeve cap between the notches, instead start your easing far beyond the notches. This was good advice, except it was impossible to pull up the ease stitches in this thick fabric! I used three rows of ease stitches and it wouldn't budge. It was now time to pull another weapon from the arsenal - the bias strip sleeve cap easing method. I'd used it before a long time ago and used this You Tube Video as a refresher. It worked like a charm!
With the sleeve cap eased, I still needed to get the sleeves inserted flawlessly. It was then that I heard Rochelle's voice in my head from a previous conversation say, "have you ever thought about hand basting the sleeve in first?". Let me tell you, that really did the trick.
|1" Bias strip taken from the inside of an old thrifted necktie|
|Not a pucker - IT'S FLAWLESS!!!|
|I think it's beautiful - I DETEST PUCKERING unless of course it's a pattern design.|
|Gratuitous picture of the back of the jacket.|
When I get to this point of a big project I make a list of what's left to do. I guess it helps me feel like I'm moving and making some progress.
It's been rough sewing this thick wool fabric. I had to pull out the big guns to get this done.
In the meantime, I was one of Brenda's pattern give-a-way winners. Thank you again Brenda!
To end this short novel of a post I must show a couple of pictures of my students. We participated in the Veteran's High School Prom Fashion Show for the second year in row and they did marvelously.
|My 2013 Dream Team|