SEWING VINTAGE...

What I thought was a perfectly fitted muslin,

is now the not so perfect first stage of my actual skirt.  After putting the pieces together and taking a look at the fit, I discovered that the skirt is a bit too a-linish in the back.   Here are a couple of front and side views

 And here is a picture of the excess fabric in the back of the skirt.  Please excuse the picture being on it's side, I don't know how to rotate pictures yet.  Removing the extra 2 1/2" of excess right below the zipper by increasing the side seams would be so easy.  Howbeit, I think that if I took that route I think I would seriously jeopardize the size pleating.

 I think the correction should be made in the center back seam.  The only deterrent is that I will have to remove and re-insert the invisible zipper.  I guess I should mention that I've already removed and re-inserted once for the sake of perfectionism.  But of course I did say that I wanted to get in a lot of practice inserting invisible zippers this month.  If anyone else has any other suggestions on this I would appreciate hearing from you...

PREEMPTION....

....I interrupted all previously scheduled sewing projects to bring you the dress that I've been obsessing about for the past two weeks.  I actually should be working on my Vintage 2011 Sew Along skirt.  I hadn't mentioned the dress here, but had the pattern at the top of my inspiration pile. This was actually a pretty easy project that I've been wanting to get sewn up since early this week.  This dress was actually meant for my Mom, and I had plans for doing one for myself afterward. But after completing it and trying it on myself, I decided that this wouldn't be the dress for Mom  after all.  (I'll have to choose a different pattern for her.)  So this one will be mine and I still plan on making another one in a different fabric.

I used this pattern before to make the sweater cozy 2 years ago, and it that turned out quite well.

 

SEWING ROOM UPDATE:  Still in process.  A door and a half, two window sills and carpet cleaning left to complete.

NAMING MY MANIKIN:  My manikin finally has a name.  My friend Ebony suggested naming her "LADY FAYE" - and so it is.  I think that name is all together fitting and proper for her.  Thanks Ebony!

And now to return to the regularly scheduled project at hand - my vintage skirt...

HOUSTON, I THINK I'VE GOT A WORKABLE VINTAGE MUSLIN...

...I've concluded that there are 4 stages of "Sewing Paralysis":

•  Stage 1 - Serious Over Thought (I think this is the way, but maybe there's a better way);
• Stage 2 - You be come indecisiveness; (should I do it this way, or should I do it that way);
• Stage 3 - You lose whatever confidence you started out with (but what if...); and lastly
• Stage 4 - You enter into "Total Sewing Paralysis" (where you can't even move or start the project, and might even start to cry)....

Been there, done that???, you know I have, and it almost happened to me yesterday when I was trying to "Grade" my vintage skirt pattern up about 3 sizes.

 
When I chose this pattern I was so sure that I could do this, but when it came down to starting the project I began to doubt myself.  I started to take a picture of the pattern pieces and email it to my secret sewing mentors to beg for advice.  But I was able to talk myself out of calling in the allies, and pulled up my big girl panties and worked it out myself.  Oh, it wasn't because I didn't think they'd help me out, because they always come to my rescue!  I just decided not to remove my crutches, and stand on my own with this project.

In grading the two pattern pieces up 3 sizes, I need to add 10 1/2" to the waist and 5" to the hip area of the pattern.  My problem was in trying to decide whether to divide by four and add the results to the side seam allowance; or to divide by two and add the results to the center front and back of the pattern.  I thought about Nancy Zieman's "PIVOT AND SLIDE" method or her "SLASH AND SPREAD" method.  With all of my reference books still packed up, I decided to wing it and go with the slash and spread option.

My muslin is a little large in the waist and hip areas, but I've made notes and adjustments on my traced pattern to help me remember what changes to make.  I think I've got a workable muslin, my fabric has been pre-treated, and now I'm ready to pin and start cutting.  TOTAL SEWING PARALYSIS averted...

FINSIHED PROJECT/INVISIBLE ZIPPER APPLICATION/RTW ZIPPER FACING TECHNIQUE....

....In my ongoing effort to make my fashions look more professional, I incorporated this RTW Style Zipper Facing Application that was mentioned by Erica Bunker in her recent interview on the Blue Gardenia Blog.  You can find that tutorial here.

When I first looked at the tutorial it seemed easy enough to pull off.  But I just could not figure out how to make it work with a lapped Zipper.  After concluding that this wouldn't be so easy after-all, I stored the link for future reference.  But something pulled me back for a second look.  This time I actually READ the instructions, rather than READING the pictures, if you get my drift.  (I'm quite often guilty of doing that).  I discovered that it was meant to be used with an invisible  zipper rather than the lapped type (DUH!).

Last Monday I had made up my mind that 2011 is high time to make installing invisible zippers "Second Nature", rather than just using it here and there.  Hancock's had a 30% off sale on zippers so I picked up a few.

I figured that forcing myself to install them one right after the other I could finally get them done without second guessing.  So that is what I've worked on for the last day and a half.  After installing and removing  a zipper in my current project, I think I've finally settled on this video to clarify instructions.  Using this method the zipper went in with ease.     QUESTION:  Has anyone heard of or know where I could get the "RIGHT SIDED FOOT" mentioned in this video???

Now back to the RTW Zipper Facing:  This little gem helped eliminate bulk that is always created by the facing seam allowance, and solved the question of how to finish the end of the facing rather than just folding it back and whip stitching down.

So here's my second finished project of the New Year.  Same McCall's pattern as the last skirt, which I think I'll retire for a while and move on to my Vintage 2011 Sew Along skirt.  I've got the vintage skirt and a dress still weighing heavily on my mind.  School is out tomorrow due to storm warnings, so I have a reprieve of sorts and actually have another day to sew....

NO, I'M NOT A PREACHER, AND I KNOW THIS IS A SEWING BLOG, BUT......

 I think it's funny/ironic/amazing how one things totally unrelated can trigger memories of something you haven't thought of in years.  I had a memory trigger today about the outfit I wore.  I'd envisioned pulling this simple look together way back in mid-August.  You might remember this post called "Unintentional Purchases" where I showed two pieces fabric (both for pencil skirts) that I purchased  from Joann's unintentionally. (Unintentional:  famous sewists term used by most fabricholics when trying to justify buying fabric that they really do not need.)   I'm finally getting around to using this fabric for my skirts.
 

 I used this pattern, and although it was a easy peasy 3 pattern piece project I made a muslin to ensure the fit.  (I think I'm addicted to muslining now.)

MCCALLS 3830

There's nothing extra special about it, but I always think it's amazing nice when visions or dreams actually become reality - because we know that they do.  ""As a man thinkth, so shall it be"  (the Holy Bible); and "if you can conceive it, and believe it, you can achieve it"  (Napoleon Hill I think).  (Probably got that one a little twisted, but I'm sure you know what I mean.)  I finished the purple skirt last night, and it became my first sewing project of the New Year.  It was part of my simple vision come true outfit from way back in August.  The memory triggered about the skirt/outfit were actually these Bible verses:

• Exodus 13:12 That thou shalt set apart unto the LORD all that openeth the matrix...,

• and Exodus 34:19 All that openeth the matrix is mine...

My paraphrased explanation is - that which opens the matrix is the the first thing that comes through.  Of course these verses were referring to first born animals or children set aside for service to the Lord.  This explanation took me further in to thought about "first fruit offerings".  Now how does this pertain to a skirt - you might ask???  The reference is to the first thing, the best thing, not just cattle, children, or crops.  When the first thing/the best thing was dedicated to God it became blessed, and all the rest (that came afterward) was also blessed.  I know this still holds true today.

My next thought was whether my work was worthy/perfect enough to dedicate to God.  But then nothing I could give will ever be worthy or perfect enough.  I think what matters most is that whatever we dedicate is already his (Exodus 34:19), but He wants us to return it to Him.  

The LORD will open the heavens, the storehouse of his bounty, to send rain on your land in season and to bless all the work of your hands.   Deuteronomy 28:12 NIV

Then the LORD your God will make you most prosperous in all the work of your hands...  Deuteronomy 30:9 NIV

"In everything you do, put God first, and He will direct you and crown your efforts with success." 

Proverbs 3:6 TLB 

Alright, enough preaching for today.  Here's the outfit, the first one (sewing project )through the matrix for me of the New Year. 

Although not perfect, I'm praying that God will bless the works of my hands all through the year!!!

2010: A LOOK BACK; (who am I kidding, long post, heavy pics)...

Glancing back at the 2010 Sewing Goals that I set, I don't think I did too badly...
 
1. Practice sessions for:
. Invisible zipper  - Applied 2 Invisible Zippers
. Collar application - Not even attempted
. Hong Kong finishes - Completely finished inside of jacket
. Spanish Snap Buttonholes - Practice Session
. Window Pane Bound Buttonholes - Practice Sessions and added to Lady Grey Coat
2. Continue working on Fitting Pants - Made 4 pair of pants
3. Focus more on 4 to 6 piece Capsule sewing. - Made pants, jacket, skirt and top4. Try (a little) Home Decor - Tablecloth for Desiree
5. Concentrate on sewing things that I really, really, really like more - Check, although I still had some pieces that I did not like.

.  I'm still not 100% competent with the Invisible Zippers, but not totally scared of them either,

.  I'm comfortable with Hong Kong finishes,

.  I feel pretty good about Bound Buttonholes,

.  Still need to work on Pant Fitting,

.  Need to do more Capsule Sewing because as much as I sew, I still feel like I don't have enough    clothes,

.  I will be doing more home decor in 2011, planning on making curtains for my newly renovated sewing room (whenever it gets finished),

.  I didn't even attempt the Stand Collar Application, so it will be a MUST in 2011.

.  The Lady Faye Coat pushed me to the outer limits of sewing challenged me to learn new fitting and tailoring techniques that I never dreamed I would try - which was a good thing.  Tailoring a pattern that wasn't meant to be tailored in the first place was quite a daunting task.  Although the project was far to lengthy, I am glad that I finished it.  I plan on making it again as a spring rain coat but this time without all the tailoring. 

 

I completed 32 Projects in 2010:
3 - Skirts
1 - Coat
10 - Dresses
10 - Tops
4 - Pants
3 - Jackets
1 - Home Decor Project

and these are pictures of my 2010 top picks:

My 2010 #1 Favorite

My 2010 #2 Top Favorite made in a home dec fabric

 SEWING ROOM UPDATE: 

Painting the ceiling on Friday

It is beautiful ya'll, and maybe it'll be finished by Easter (sarcasm)

 I SPENT CHRISTMAS IN ANTARCTICA NORTH CAROLINA WITH MY CHILDREN:

This was my car on Christmas Day

These kids hold my heart strings

 

  WHAT'S IN THE WORKS RIGHT NOW:

2 PENCIL SKIRTS (ONE ALMOST FINISHED, THE BLACK AND WHITE TO BE CUT TOMORROW

DIDN'T I SAY THAT I WOULDN'T BE JOINING ANOTHER SEW ALONG FOR QUITE SOME TIME???:

Well people, nobody twisted my arm but I did Join the Vintage Sew Along that actually started today.  I heart plaid pleated wool skirts, so when I found out that this circa 1980's pattern qualified as vintage I jumped on yet another sew along boat.  This is a wool blend that I scooped up at Hancock's last year.  The pattern is one that I found at a thrift junk store that my friends Ebony and Danielle cruise every once and a while.  It reminds me of a skirt I made back in the 80' that I loved so much.  The pattern challenge is that it's a size 12, and I am clearly not there (not with all of my holiday eating that is).  So I will need to grade up at least one size to make it work for me.  I think it's a unique pattern because the pleats are located at the side of the skirt.  A black or red sweater, black wool blazer, boots, gloves, and my hat will tear this skirt up, don't you agree?

Vintage pattern circa 1980

Well, I guess that's enough for this time folks.  Happy New Sewing Year ....

I FOUND IT, I FOUND IT; A LONG AWAITED FABRIC TRIP; AND A GIVE-AWAY PRIZE...

I found the Anthropologie inspired duvet cover tutorial.  It's illustrated in two parts at Kojodesigns just in case some of you might start obsessing over this beauty like yours truly.  My great big THANK YOU goes out to them for sharing the how-to's.

Belated Happy Holiday greetings to all my blog friends!  I left home so quickly to visit my children for Christmas that blogging time was non-existent.  I did peep in on everybody while I was away though.

I FINALLY got to visit Mary Jo's Cloth World in North Carolina, and it was actually just that - a real CLOTH WORLD!  I have to use my favorite descriptive word - WOW!, and prices are fantastic.  With Ponte Roma knit's regularly priced at $6.95 it wasn't hard to haul a few pieces back home with me.  Woolens and wool blends were beautiful and also very reasonably priced, but the thing that held my attention most was the notions wall.  Things that I have only read or heard about can be found there (like the Fast Turn Tube Turner set, a serger pad with trim catcher bag, and permanent zipper and top stitching guides), and all at a 20% discount. (You do know that I'm a notions/sewing gadget fanatic!)  The sales staff was super nice and helpful.  I even got to meet and talk with the real Mary Jo now in her 80's who ,as the story goes, started the store in the back of her father's barber shop when she was a teenager.  I find her story so amazing, and even more so because she still works there every day!    What was intended to be a one hour trip turned into two, but was well worth driving 30 miles off my travel path for.  I do hope that I get to visit that store again, but if not I do plan on using their handy website to place some future orders.

Last but certainly not least, before Christmas I won Angie's (Quality Time) I Heart U give-away!  The package was waiting on my porch when I returned from my trip this evening.  My package included this marvelous book complete with patterns.

 A great Hot Patterns tie neck blouse pattern, and two party bags with notions (elastic, zippers, etc.)

Thank you Angie, you made my day!!!

SEARCHING FOR ANTHROPOLOGIE KNOCK-OFF TUTORIALS......

Several months ago I ran across tutorials on how to knock off  both this Anthropologie ruffled shower curtains and the cutiest duvet cover.  I thought that I bookmarked both tutorials, but now can't find them.  I had seen the duvet cover in a Country Living magazine during the summer and had fallen in love with it then.  While I am pretty sure I could pull off either of the ruffled shower curtains, I am not sure at all of how to knock-off the duvet cover.  I guess I could set up special savings accounts and purchase "these not so necessary. but I would really like to have them beauties" after several months, but I would much rather be able to say "I made them myself".

http://www.anthropologie.com/anthro/catalog/category.jsp?popId=HOME&navAction=top&navCount=75&isSortBy=true&pushId=HOME-BATH&id=HOME-BATH

(The crown crane duvet cover)
http://www.anthropologie.com/anthro/catalog/category.jsp?itemCount=6&pushId=HOME-BEDDING&selectedProductSize=&id=HOME-BEDDING&startValue=13&defaultSort=&navCount=125&sortView=&prevVisit=true&templateType=hybrid&navAction=top&displayNumber=6&selectedProductSize1=&sortby=&prepushId=&popId=HOME

If you have seen the tutorials on how to knock these off, or if you know how to do it yourself, COULD YOU PLEASE ENLIGHTEN ME?

IT'S THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE YEAR...

...it's the Christmas Season, and today is my Birthday!  To EVERYONE who was nice enough to send cards & emails, or make facebook posts and telephone calls - a big THANK YOU, you made me feel so wonderful!

Now, on to the sewing business at hand.  It was such a rainy, chilly day that the Lady Faye photo shoot had to be held inside...

Merry Christmas to all and Happy Sewing!........

SHHHHHHH - IT'S A SECRET.........................

Confession.  Can I keep a secret?  By all means I can.  If you ask me not to tell, I can most certainly keep your secret.  But when it comes to keeping my own secret, is it that easy - not so much.  I've had a secret since Saturday before last, December 4th, and it's been eating me up.  I haven't posted in ten days because I just knew I'd probably blab it all out - and guess what, that is just what I'm about to do...

May I present to you my Lady Faye Coat.  Here she stands in what once was my living room amidst all the clutter that use to resided in my sewing room (but yet, that's another story).
 

I had planned an all out photo shoot this past Saturday with me styling my new coat, but just wasn't feeling it so that appointment got postponed.  The photo shoot will happen very soon and I will post pics of me wearing my laborious results.  The fit is good, but since our temperatures dropped at least 25 degrees below normal, I really don't think it will be warm enough for me (I am EXTREMELY cold natured to the point that I really need to live in a tropical local).  By the way, I decided to remove the flannel interlining because it made the coat weight about a thousand pounds.

Why did I change the name of the coat?  Well, I just felt that since the thing took me so long to complete, caused me to second guess myself and over think the process more than any other garment ever had, she should be named after me.  When I was recently asked if  I loved the coat I had to  say "I really can't say that I love it, but I do like it a lot.  Maybe I'm not in love with it because it took me so long to complete, but I'm sure that with time I will fall in love with her.  I did learn a lot in the process, and tried techniques that I never dreamed I'd do.  Hopefully we will have a long and lasting relationship, and maybe,  just maybe one day I might see my way clear to make a spring version just like her. 

Now I've got my sewing life back!!! (Me jumping for joy)  For months I've had "sewing project images" flying around in my head that it's been hard to focus on just one project.  I have got to get some of these images out of my head and bring them to life before I explode!  First up is this really cute skirt, Vogue 7937.

This weekend I did up a not so quick and dirty muslin and so far so good.  I'm making view B in guess what - a home deco faux suede in chocolate brown.  This is the first time I've used such a fabric, and I am really excited about the possibilities.  I'm using a size 16 needle which is really helping.  The skirt has top stitched seams front and back, and I'm using a new technique that I learned about while making my coat.   I'd like to give proper credit for the idea but can't remember where I read about it.  Maybe you've tried it already but just in case you haven't, it's done by threading three threads through your machine through the same the same needle.  I was only able to get two threads through the needle, but it does make my top stitching (done using my longest stitch) more noticeable.  Now I'm wondering what it would look like using different color threads - mmmm might have to try that one out.  I've underlined the skirt (I do plan on keeping warm) and will also add a lining.  Can't wait to get it finished because there are many other project images screaming to get out next.


Sewing Room Update:  Well, all four walls now have paint on them.  One and a half walls still need a second coat.  Trim, doors and windows still need to be painted, and then the ceiling is still crying out for some attention too.  It's a really S-l-o-w go, but I know it will be worth it when it's finished.  The room already looks much larger and of course so much more brighter....

MY DREAMS COMING TRUE: SEWING ROOM PROGRESS & FINISHING THE LADY GREY COAT...

Well, it finally started!  And I love my paint color choice - "Powdered Snow", not to white and not to beige-y, but just right.  There is still such an awful lot of work to do in here.  Now that the first wall is painted (but still needs a second coat) it makes the ceiling look really dull - so now of course, the ceiling needs to be painted too. 

Taking work schedules into consideration, I don't know, but I really can't see getting this finished before Christmas.  Not being negative, just being realistic.  Well, it is what it is; but it is still the beginning of MY DREAM COMING TRUE - I want to live with white walls!!!

Lady Grey Coat Status:

Will I complete it this weekend???, - well I really don't know.  I thought I'd finish it two weekends ago, and I certainly though I'd finish over the four day Thanksgiving weekend, but of course that didn't happen either.  There is not very much to do to finish, I've even written up my usual "What's Left to Do" chart:

• give it a GOOD press
• tack lining down
• top stitch
• attach belt loops
• hem sleeve lining (had to patch to extend sleeve linings because they were too short)
• Finish buttonholes
• sew on buttons
• schedule photo shoot (LOL)

Doesn't seem like a whole lot of work does it.  It seems that I should be able to get this all done today. I guess I'm just tired of this project, but I'm so anal about not starting another project before finishing this one.  I'm imprisoned with this  Lady Grey project - I have no sewing life beyond it right now, but there are soooooo many other things I want to make.  I WANT MY LIFE BACK.................................