SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE....

It's been ten days since my last post - but I've gotten this far with my Lady Grey Coat project.


It's been a very loooong haul. And to top it off, I worked an additional 3 - 5 hour night shifts last week that left me really drained. I'll pull another 3 nights this week, and then 2 the following week and then I'll be through. This leaves very little energy or motivation for sewing throughout the week, but I did spend some time at the machine Friday, Saturday and today. I might not get a chance to touch this again until next weekend, but I am feeling a lot better about the project (at least for right now). The sew-along schedule cited October 31 as the finish date - well, we all know that I didn't make that deadline. But, I am still determined to complete what I started.

So whats left to do?: the collar, sleeves, underling/lining, hemming, and finishing the buttonholes. Should take - say - another 3 months. No, just kidding. I am so ready for another project, but I stick to my unwritten rule of finishing one project before starting another one. My rule is a rather stringent one, but it keeps me from having UFO's.

I THINK IT'S ABOUT TIME FOR A POST...

When I was growing up a phrase that I often heard was - "I feel like I've been run through the mill". Don't know if you've every heard that one, but what it means is "I've had a hard time or have been through something very trying". My Lady Gray coat has "run me through the mill"; most of it being totally mental.

My last post ended with me basting sew-in interfacing to my jacket front, trying to get to the part where I pad stitched the lapel area of the coat. Before I finished stitching one section of the coat front I decided that this was not going to work for me because try as I might, my stitching showed through the right side of the fabric. After removing those stitches I decided to go ahead and use fusible interfacing instead. Mind you, by this time I've pre-shrunk two different types of interfacing at two separate times. After carefully fusing one of the front sections I noticed that even though I had used a shoe on the iron and a pressing cloth I ended up with iron prints on the right side of the fabric. Thank goodness the pattern called for an excessive amount yardage; I had enough of it left over to cut another single front section.

After much contemplation I decided to fuse the interfacing to a batise (sheer mist) underlining and then attach that to each pattern section. This did add some body to my light weight wool flannel shell fabric, which is a good thing. Of course, decided to try my hand at bound buttonholes. Figured I might as well seeing that I'd already been "run through the mill" with this thing. So last night and tonight I practiced making Spanish Snap (Roberta Carr's Couture Sewing DVD), and window pane bound buttonholes, (Marta Alto's Jackets for Real People - Tailoring Made Easy DVD). Had to remind myself NOT TO FRET, because these were only for practice, and if it didn't work out - I could always use a regular old buttonhole.

The practice sessions went pretty good. I really liked both types but decided to go with the bound buttonhole. Here are pictures of both.

First the Spanish Snap:
and the the Window Pane Bound:



and finally the one I installed on the coat front:

The coat will have two buttonholes, but one is concealed and a regular buttonhole will do just fine there. Wow! I really never thought I would even attempt bound buttonholes. I guess I should never say never, because this really wasn't that hard at all. I'm already far behind the sew along schedule so giving up two nights for practice didn't slow the pace any more. I really thought I'd get to tape the lapel roll line and start pad stitching the lapel tonight, but that didn't happen ( I'll start pad stitching tomorrow night). I'll be using the Roberta Carr DVD to help me with the pad stitching. I'm so very glad that I had these resources in my library in addition to my books (which I've about worn the pages out of). Now that I've completed the buttonholes I can really understand why they are put in so early in the construction process.

MORAL: I'm glad I stretched and learned something new.....

I FINALLY STOPPED TRIPPING....

...about the Lady Grey coat process that is. Last night I garnered up my best fitting efforts, and cut into the shell fabric.

• I know, I know - IT'S ABOUT TIME isn't it? To my recollection this is what I've done so far: Made three muslins, that's right three. I've never made three for one single project before. Two maybe, but not three. I decided that I still liked the very first one best, so that is what I went with;

• Altered the length of the lapel and the coat front to eliminate gaping;
• Did a small sway back adjustment. Never knew I had a sway back, why didn't someone tell me about it? I should have suspected as much because of my high rear protrusion (not complaining however, I'm glad that I have one instead of being flat in that area);
• Re-sized the pockets because I could barely get my hands in. Also repositioned the pocket placement because it was much too low and would have extended into the hem area;
  
• Over thought and over worked the project until it almost made me sick to my stomach;
  

and that's that. It is what it is!, or should I say "it will be what it's gonna to be". I had already decided that more than enough money has been invested in this project, so I opted against the hair canvas. None was to be found in my area anyway, maybe next time - because I've got to move on.

I also started working on a little tailoring of the front of the coat. I'm following along with the sew along suggestions as closely as possible. I know my coat probably will not be as firm because of the type interfacing I am using, but that's o.k., since I really want a soft structured garment. Since I've read so much on tailoring recently, and Gertie has taken her time to provided the how-to video tutorials, I think it's time that I tried my hand at the stitching. I know I'll be using this information on many future projects since I so dearly love jackets.

Here's a picture of what I've done so far. I'll pad stitch the side front sections and the lapel next. Couldn't find any silk thread in my area either, so I'm using a "fine" thread in a matching color.
Can you see my stitches?


I still have not committed to do bound buttonholes yet. I sort of think I will, sort of think I won't at the moment. (I know, I'm still being a little wishy washy.) I have until it's time to attach the front facing to make up my mind. I want to see if I can find some time to practice with them before I mentally commit...

I'VE HAD A REALLY FULL WEEKEND...

Last weekend was spent cleaning out my attic - if you can fathom that. It wasn't a job for the faint at heart as I had been putting off for YEARS! Three things prompted this big attic cleaning project:

1. I needed to back away a little from the Lady Grey Project which has consumed me;
2. A friend need some of my excess for a rummage sale to raise monies for her son's much needed math tutoring lessons and a school trip to Washington, D.C.. So this was a win, win situation, it helped her out, and helped me out because she carted away excess that I needed to go through and purge;
3. Now that the attic had been purged, I had room up there to put boxes and other things from the closet in my sewing room that I'm not quite ready to part with as of yet. This created more storage room in that closet for sewing related stuff.

WOW, what a job that was. Up and down the stairs, but so worth it in the end. I am slowly revamping my sewing space to make it more convenient, less cluttered, and a prettier place to work.

My BFF from New York visited for a couple of days this weekend. We made a stop at Charming Charlie's to peruse the latest in affordable costume jewelery. I was very good and came away with only one necklace. She loves the Flea Market so we put in several hours at the one in Macon yesterday. I was trying to be so careful not to buy too much junk to cart home (because I'm supposed to be purging after all). But, I always keep my eyes peeled for things I can use in the sewing room so I did pick up a couple of things:

This little rack that I've already put up to hang my shears. It was only $2.00.
Prior to this I had hammered big old nails in the wall to hang them on. I think this looks much, much better.

This over the door hanger was also only $2.o0. I hung on the sewing room door
where I'm always hanging my sewing projects.

and this little jar for 50 cents. I put some of my button collection into it, and
I want several more to go along with it. I think it provides nice see through storage.

Afterward we made our way to the Georgia National Fair to check on my exhibit entries. I had 6 entries, but only 3 of them placed to my surprise.

This jacket which was supposed to be a two piece entry received first prize.
This wasn't even my best work! I ran short of the fabric and had to piece meal the
ruffle on the sleeve. The pants to the jacket ended up as a separate entry and didn't place at all.

My faux Chanel Suit took a second prize. Wow, a quilted jacket, an invisible zipper
and a months worth of work. I was really amazed that that it didn't earn a
first prize ribbon.


My sweater knit cardigan with the cowl neck top that I really love
did earn a third place ribbon. I wonder how they knew these two pieces went together (a bit of sarcasm there).

All in all I know I should be happy that I placed at all. This was my second year and I can't help think that you need to belong to the "good ol boy club" to earn one of those fabulous "Awards of Excellence". My only problem is, I don't know how to get into the good ol boy club. Will I enter again,... probably so. Not that I really need it, but I am determined to win one of those state of the art sewing machines.

There were TOO many people at the fair, and we must have walked 10 or 12 miles. We were exhausted, and I never am able to eat all that I plan on eating - wouldn't be able to afford it if I could...

TAMING OF THE SHREW...

Here stands the Lady Gray coat muslin that I posted about almost two weeks ago.

I am actually really ashamed to say that since that time I have come down with a sad case of "Sewing Paralysis". Oh, I've had this dreaded sickness a couple of times in the past, but thank God they were only minor cases that never lasted very long. This malady, caused by a lady (the Lady Gray Coat), I wouldn't wish upon my worst enemy!

In the interim I did make another muslin but didn't like it at all - went back to my first one instead. But time ticks on and so does the sew along. I feel as though everyone else is speeding right past me. I did start a post since my last one but didn't publish it. I should have, and named it "I should be sewing, but I'm not" or something similar. What started out looking like such a simple project has turned into FITTING UNIVERSITY. I guess this coat will be my diploma or sheepskin if I may. I've read and re-read all of my fitting books. I've had numerous FITS of protest if you can imagine. For a person who sews as much as I do, I am just totally shocked at my reaction to this project. I love to learn! I was once even profiled "ever learning Faye". Maybe it was my initial quest to create "the perfect little cute purple coat" that got to me.

At any rate, those you who know the word of prayer, PLEASE PRAY FOR ME. I'm off now to enlarge my pattern just a little bit to be able to incorporate an underlining, because temperatures have drastically dropped in Middle Georgia and this light weight wool flannel ain't gonna cut it for very long without one. You will be hearing from me very soon...

P.S. meant to say inner-lining...

MUSLINING MUST BE AN ART??? (long post)

I've actually had my coat muslin made up for over a week now, but didn't feel it was ready for world unveiling (just kidding). On a serious note, have you ever started/or wanted to start a project and just got bogged down in over thinking it??? Well that is what happened to me! I so want to do a good job on this coat.

• For starters, I know that the collar is too short for some reason, as it did not meet the placement markers on the coat front. I need to go back to check it with the pattern - I probably cut the wrong size collar.

• This is the second fitting of my first muslin; it has a 5/8" seam allowance. Initially, it was just a little too snug for wearing over sweaters and the like, so I let out all (7) seams (from 5/8" to 3/8"). I am NOT AT ALL good with fractions at all, but I think I reduced each seam 1/4", making my coat 1 1/2 inches larger overall (feel free to help me with the math). This could account for the collar being too small.

• I can see a problem with the back on the left side. (picture 3) There seems to be more fabric on the left - there definitely are more wrinkle lines. I'm thinking that taking in the center back seam in that area might help alleviate these wrinkles. What do you think.

• I don't think the wrinkling across my back waist area is too bad (pictures 3&5) - your thoughts.

• And what do you think about my sleeves. I can see wrinkles on the underside close to my body. (pictures 2&3) I am almost sure that the sleeve placement is correct. Maybe I'm holding my arms too close to my body??? The back seam of the sleeve is supposed to match up with the back princess seam - am I right?

• Sleeve wrinkles again. (picture 7) Do you think my sleeve placement is correct?

• Do you think the wrinkle pool across my back is being caused by the belt here?

I retraced the entire pattern per suggestions made by Gertie, and was going to sew up an entirely new muslin with 1" seams, but I just could not commit to all of the extra work involved. So I decided to just give this one more try. My kids at school took pictures for me this morning, and after seeing them I feel a whole lot better about this muslin.

NOW, MY FELLOW BLOGGER FRIENDS, I NEED TO KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS AND/OR SUGGESTIONS ABOUT MY MUSLIN. Please consider that I am operating with mid-week brain cells at the moment.

Coat construction is scheduled to commence: Monday, September 27th (my little sister's birthday).

Thought I'd include a picture of the ladies that greet me at 7:45 every morning - AKA My photographers.

SIDELINE SEWING RELATED NOTE: After much hemming and humming I did make it down to the fairgrounds on Saturday to submit my exhibit entries. Who would have thought that both my sewing buddies would be unable to participate this year because they are BOTH of town! Nevertheless, I am a big girl so I went it alone this time. Judging started on Monday of this week, but results won't be revealed until the fair opens (October 7-17). Be assured that I will let you know the outcome....

IT'S GOOD NEWS TO ME...

I do so LOVE my blog! I count it an honor and a privilege that people find it worthy of stopping by to just look in, comment, or answer one my many questions. As with many other aspects of life, I have to refer back to a quote from Mary Kay Ash - you know, the real Mary Kay. "Help enough people get what they want, and you will automatically get what you want". It is my sincere hope that someone somewhere will be able to gain some tidbit of sewing information from my blog.

I received information this evening that my blog has been added to Online Colleges.org's list of 50 Best Blogs for Sewing Students. Well, that is good news to me! There are quite a few other blogs that I recognize on this list.

I've been considering several new features that I want to incorporate into my blog. Just got to work out a few kinks before I do, so be on the lookout...

I've been mentally battling to decide whether or not to do a Textile Entry at our local fair this year. You might remember that I entered 5 items back in 2008 that yielded 5 prize ribbons and a small check. So this morning I pulled 5 hand sewn items from the closet, and I think I'm going for it again this year. This will add some sewing related excitement to my life this weekend.

I worked up the first muslin for my Lady Gray coat (all is going well) and will be posting pictures soon. I can already visualize myself wearing this coat...

GRACIOUSLY ACCEPTED BLOG AWARDS...

I was sent two wonderful blog awards but have yet to acknowledge receiving them. Please, please forgive my slowness, but do know that both awards are graciously accepted.

This first one from http://manecoarse.blogspot.com








and this second one from http://seamsenjoiable.blogspot.com


The rules for the first award are:
1. Tell us what you like about YOUR blog,
2. Then send the award to 10 other blogs that you read.

and, the rules for the second award are:
1. Tell us 10 thing about yourself,
2. Then Send the award to 5 other blogs that you read.

I hope the senders don't mind but I'm taking the liberty of mixing up the rules. I'll tell you what I like about my own blog, and then send BOTH awards on to 5 blogs that I read - Hows about that?

"I love the fact that this is my own personal domain. I can express myself just as I like (although I try to keep the contents clean). I can dress it up or down depending on my mood. I feel free in sharing small tidbits of information that a novice sewer might be able to use. If I get stumped on a project my blog allows me to reach out to thousands of people who have more knowledge of the craft than I, but who are willing and able to help me out. My blog has opened up a whole new world to me, one that is exciting, inspiring. It constantly feeds my hunger for more and more knowledge."

Now to share BOTH awards with 5 other bloggers:

The rules are:

1. Answer the question : "What do you like the most about your own blog?"

2. Pass this award to another five other blogggers.

Sewaholic - wonderfully young, talented, and creative
SewonandSewon - to welcome Lisa back to blogging
Clio - just completed the most amazingly great fitting pants, and is about to embark on creating some fine lingerie
Cindy - my sister from another mother who operates a fantastic "learn to sew" business in South Florida
Candice - creating gorgeous garments from way across the pond.

AFTER MUCH CONTEMPLATION...

...I chose the lining fabric for my upcoming Lady Gray project.

It's actually a charmeusey feeling silky print that I picked up at Joann's this afternoon. The print is a large paisley/flower pattern in the colors purple, brown, off white, and teal on a green background. I didn't want to use a solid, but thought that a lively print would give the coat a certain POP of color that I could flash upon opening (lol). Since the wool flannel shell fabric is light weight, I think the weight of the lining will give the the coat a little more body and warmth. I'm thinking that I might underline with a light batiste, but the verdict is still out on that one.

I also picked up the 1" buttons for the coat



and think I now have everything needed for the job. Tonight I was planning on tracing the pattern on some of my Swedish pattern paper that I picked up at the sewing expo back in March and haven't touched since. I can feel myself getting a little sleepy right now, so I'd better save that job for tomorrow morning.

I scouted Joann's for fabric to make a wearable muslin. I couldn't find anything I liked that wouldn't cost as much as the as the actual coat, so I had to squash that idea. So my plan now is to fit the Swedish pattern paper after stitching it together. We'll see how this plan goes...

Ottobre Shrug...

I just entered a contest where this Ottobre shrug/mini cape/wrap/scarf is the prize in a give a way. I really like it and think it would be a great wrap to spruce up a fall outfit. Hope I wasn't too late in entering.

FINALLY.....

I finished Butterick 5147 sheath (AKA my little black dress). I loved this fabric at first sight, and immediately thought it would make a cute LBD for my graduation day back in June. However, try as I might, I just could not seem to get the dress fitted correctly. So it has hung on the door in my sewing room since that time. I came close to throwing it in the trash several times, but for some reason thought I would eventually get back to it. Lisa came to visit me on Friday and was kind enough to pin fit the dress while I wore it inside out. I made a shoulder seam adjustment by sewing a 1 1/4" seam rather than the original 5/8". Secondly, I tapered the dress in about 1" from the hip area down. I also scooped the neckline out just a little because I thought it was much to high, and that was it.
Simple right? Yes it was! Except, I was in such a hurry to get the dress completed that I stitched the side seams without realizing that (according to the pattern instructions) it would have been much better to install the lining at the neckline and arms before doing so. It would have been much easier to remove the side seam stitching and then attach the lining, but I didn't want to chance losing the fit in the hip area. So I spent the afternoon hand stitching the lining to the armholes. Talk about time consuming. After applying stretch lace and hemming my first self-made LBD is finished. Couldn't do a picture wearing it because I looked a hot mess today. But, I can't believe the fit. It is so comfortable - no pulling, it's just right!

I will make this or a reasonable facsimile in the very near future, but I was amazed that a garment using only two pattern pieces could give me such a fitting fit. But now that it's done, I still love the fabric and now I love the dress. Thanks again Lisa.

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IT AIN'T OVER UNTIL IT'S FINISHED, the inside of the garment that is.

Several posts ago I received a request from an Anonymous commenter that asked for garment finishing tips. She wrote:

"I can see that to take the "next step" in sewing and make my garments look more professional, I need to make the inside look as good as the outside. I know you have talked about the importance of this, but I would love it if I could get some tips on how to do that. The pattern instructions that typically come with your basic Simplicity or whatever pattern just don't really tell you how to do this. E.g. some ways to finish and/or make seams, hems, etc."

The hem finish I use depends on the project type. I took these pictures to illustrate "one way to finish hems" for her ( and anyone else interested). I used Wrights Flexi-Lace Hem Tape (I often call it stretch lace). About 1/2 pack was used for this project. The packages contain 3 yards.

After the hem is measured and pressed, the edge of the fabric
is serged to provide a ravel free surface.

The Flexi- Lace is then pinned to the serged edge of the hem.

Here the lace is stitched to the edge of the hem, right over the
serged edge. I use a medium length zigzag stitch to attach the lace
making sure I do not sew over pins.

This picture show the hem of the dress pinned in place after the lace has been attached.
The dress is now ready to be hand hemmed.

I do not use this method on all garments. I tend to use it on garments that I feel are special, or ones that I know I will keep for a very long time.

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LADY GRAY UPDATE

The purple wool flannel and matching Gutermann thread was in the mailbox on Saturday. The color is not as deep as I had thought, but I do like it. This wool flannel is very similar in weight to suit weight wool. I really don't think it should cause any bulky seam problems at all. I still need to find the lining for the coat, but I'm getting very close to the muslin stage...