October 9, 2009


Never can remember whether Chanel has one "n" or two - oh well I'm sure you know what I mean.

I'm working on my jacket muslin, and the process is going very well. I'm planning on adding faux welt pocket flaps, but I'm undecided whether to use just two - I could use three or even four, but I want to make sure that I'm not over crowding it. The pocket flaps will have braided trim across them (I still have not purchased the trim yet) and I don't want them to make the jacket look junky.

Vouge 7975 has a two piece sleeve which I usually try to avoid. In addition to the two piece sleeve, I still have to contend with excess sleeve cap ease. I know that ease is a necessary thing, but I cannot stand the puckers that result from it. Several months ago my friend Lisa Howard had told me about using Armo-Rite (found in old ties) cut on the bias to ease sleeves in with the puckers. I tried it and obviously did not know what I was doing because it did not work. I noticed recently that Erica Bunker showed the same technique in a tutorial so I gave it another try. I used regular bias tape (ironed open) as a substitute to ease the sleeves in my jacket muslin.

This time it worked like a charm. So I owe a big "Thank You" to both Lisa and Erica because now I'll satisfied with my sleeves.

Today I'll search my limited source here in town for my trim, and if that fails I turn to the internet. It's time for me to get the show on the road and cut into my fashion fabric.

Before I end this post I'd like to show you a new addition to my collection - my new, old Singer sewing machine. Hancock's put all of their refurbished machines on clearance last week, and I was able to pick this one up for $32.00. I didn't realize until I got it home that it didn't have a thumb screw for the needle or the thing that holds the thread spoon on the spindle. I took it in to the repair shop today and got that taken care if for only $15.00. The man said that the machine is in excellent condition and looked to have only about 10 hours sewing use. It's quite heavy, just the machine I wanted for heavier fabrics like home decor if I ever decide to get involved. I am such a Singer person...


  1. Setting sleeves use to be something that made me sweat. But when I read about that technique and tried it, it was the best thing ever! I'm glad it worked for you!

  2. I absolutely love those old machines. They are workhorses. Happy sewing!

  3. Great start, Faye! I cannot wait to see your progress, and of course you wearing your completed jacket.

  4. I'm going to try this sleeve technique on my jacket. I'm going to buy a batch of old ties at the op shop and pull them apart. Your sleeve sits so nicely. I haven't even started my Chanel jacket, but I will start this week!

  5. I'm glad the jacket it going as planned for you, the sleeve technique is awesome. Its always good to have a spare machine, congrats on getting one at such a great price

  6. Anonymous10/12/2009

    That sleeve is perfection! You have given me hope! The few sleeves I've tried look like picture #1. :)

    You mention bias tape - did you use bias tape instead of the tie material in the final version?

    Can't wait to see the finished jacket. 3 pockets might look fun...

  7. You are so brave for doing a Chanel jacket. That must be very challenging. Your sleeve looks great.

  8. Great sleeve and machine find! I can't wait to see the rest of your progress on the Chanel jacket!

  9. Your sleeve looks amazing!! I'm duly impressed!
    Congratulations on your new Singer!

  10. You are doing a beautiful job on that muslin. I will definitely have to try that technique in the future.

    By the way, I want to thank you for blogging about the trouser book by David Page Coffin. I bought it last Friday. Love it!!!!!

  11. Hey! I just wanted to come by and thank you for the wonderful comment you left on my blog, and I discovered that you are awesome and far brave than I! If only I was brave enough to try Chanel...*sighs* I love the sleeve technique- I've only started making sleeved dresses recently, and sometimes when I start to set a sleeve I begin to cast longing glances at all my spaghetti-strap and sleeveless patterns. So thanks for two things: the comment that made me blush and the cool new technique!



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