WIP, OMG...

... NOTE TO READERS:  Heavy Post.  If you don't want to read all of this I understand! Just look at the pictures - it's quite a metamorphosis! 

...I started my Fearless February project on January 19th because I knew I needed a head start.  But really, what does it matter - After all I'm not in a speed race.  But I have to continuously remind myself to CHILL and just ENJOY the process of what this project is all about:

•  shaking up my regular sewing routine by stepping out of my comfort zone
•  practicing and thus improving my tailoring techniques

I actually do not get in as much sewing time during the week as I would like to.  Lets face it I'm pooped at the end of the day.  Sewing a little on Friday evening and all day on Saturdays has been progressive though.  Had I made this jacket straight by the pattern instructions it would have been finished by now.   But it wouldn't be as special as it's going to be after plugging numerous tailoring techniques into it.

There have been other eyes (people) involved in this process.  My sister Pat and my niece Brenda came for a visit at the beginning of the muslin fitting stage.  They helped me critique my fit as much as they could but most importantly took pictures of the back of the muslin while I was wearing it.  I emailed the picture to Smoking Needles, who suggested that the sleeves needed to be raised because they extended far too much over my natural shoulder; and that it was too big in the chest area.  And after studying this picture I also knew that I also needed to make a sway back alteration.

Glad I already knew how to make the sway back adjustment.  I also made an adjustment for the pulling at the top of that center back seam.

Eight pairs of eyes lead to a much better fitting muslin,  but it was at this point that I was almost ready to throw in the towel because I really wasn't sure how to go about raising the sleeves or taking the excess fullness out of the chest area.  But instead I took a deep breath and decided to press on.  After all, it's not a Challenge unless it's a Challenge, RIGHT??? 

Much too over extended in the shoulder area

I'll admit, not a pretty sight!

Ahhhh, much better!, but also found that the sleeves were much too big overall

My corrections made for a much better fit. You can see from the picture that even on the dressform it was too large in the lower armhole area.  I could have taken the excess out of the side seams, but nooooo, I had already jumped the gun and completely installed all 3 pocket flaps (lining, topstitching and superb pressing).  There was no way I was taking them off because as far as I was concerned they were PERFECT!  Taking up the side seam would have thrown my pocket flap alignment off.  So instead I decided to make the adjustment in the back princess seams, which I think worked out very well.

I insert the majority of my sleeves flat before the side seams are sewn.  I JUST LOVE THAT METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION!  But of course this jacket has a two piece sleeve so there was no way around setting it in.  If anyone out there knows a way to sew a two piece sleeve in flat, please let me know!
The sleeves were the #1 area that caused me fear - I'm a-scared (new made up word) of sleeve cap puckering.  I received advise from two different sources and help from a video tutorial.  Ebony said that although pattern instructions tell you to ease the sleeve cap between the notches, instead start your easing far beyond the notches.  This was good advice, except it was impossible to pull up the ease stitches in this thick fabric!  I used three rows of ease stitches and it wouldn't budge.  It was now time to pull another weapon from the arsenal - the bias strip sleeve cap easing method.  I'd used it before a long time ago and used this You Tube Video as a refresher.  It worked like a charm!

With the sleeve cap eased, I still needed to get the sleeves inserted flawlessly.  It was then that I heard Rochelle's voice in my head from a previous conversation say, "have you ever thought about hand basting the sleeve in first?".  Let me tell you, that really did the trick.

1" Bias strip taken from the inside of an old thrifted necktie

Not a pucker - IT'S FLAWLESS!!!

I think it's beautiful - I DETEST PUCKERING unless of course it's a pattern design.

Gratuitous picture of the back of the jacket. 

 I am extremely pleased with my project at this point, but still not completely out of  woods.  The pattern calls for 1/2" shoulder pads, but I'm not sure that will be enough.  I'm toying with making headers for the sleeves.

When I get to this point of a big project I make a list of what's left to do.   I guess it helps me feel like I'm moving and making some progress.

It's been rough sewing this thick wool fabric.  I had to pull out the big guns to get this done.

I purchased this machine about four years ago at Hancock's used machine sale for $35.00; all it needed was a needle thumb screw.  I use it for "hard" to sew fabrics and boots so it rarely sees the light of day.  But I'm discovering that I really like it.  No bells or whistles on this machine at all but it purrs like a kitten.

In the meantime, I was one of Brenda's pattern give-a-way winners.  Thank you again Brenda!

To end this short novel of a post I must show a couple of pictures of my students.  We participated in the Veteran's High School Prom Fashion Show for the second year in row and they did marvelously.

My 2013 Dream Team

...

I'd love to tackle two big projects during Fearless - February (F-F) that have been on my sewing back burner for a very long time.  But since I sew much faster in my mind than I do in reality, I think I'd better concentrate on just one of them for starters.  No need in boggling my mind anymore than necessary.- right?

My (F-F) project is - oop Vogue 2873

a pattern that I've had for a long, long time.  I've often wanted to make it, but was fearful that I'd be able to pull it off.  Why fearful? - I really don't know - just fearful.   But when I saw the jacket made by Erica and then by Lori, I was ready to kick fear to the curb and go with what my Grandmother taught me - that being "NOTHING BEATS A TRY".

Last week I chronicled some of my progress, but the project actually started the week before with the preparation of the fabric.  Lori mentioned that she had washed her wool blend fabric by accident; I washed mine on purpose.  I'd had the fabric four or more years - gifted by my fabulous friend Ebony; but it felt stiff as though it contained some sort of sizing so I decided to wash it.  I pre-measured and found that I had 9 inches to play with.  After laundering in warm water (yes I know it was risky), and drying on medium I was left with a much softer piece of fabric and only 2 inches to spare.  Thank goodness I still had enough for my pattern pieces even after lengthening the body of the jacket 2".

Friday evening was spent removing a great deal of the fusible tricot interfacing that I felt made the jacket too stiff.  On Saturday I rolled out of bed and rolled into the sewing room where I spent the ENTIRE day working.  Got the lapel and collar taped and padded using that wonderful serpentine stitch that Erica mentioned.  WHAT A TIME SAVER!!! 

Shaped the lapel

and the collar

Taped the front edge along the seamline

Got the pocket flaps made and stitched on

and finally got it to resemble a jacket.  Funny thing though, I got the muslin to fit just fine, but found the jacket to be a tad too large - go figure!  Especially since I'd already jumped the gun by finishing  and stitching the pocket flaps on - which by the way I'm NOT going to remove.  I'll just make a fit adjustment in the back princess seams.

Now comes the scary part - attaching the collar and inserting the sleeves - uncharted territory.  I'm taking a deep breath and I'll use the following quote and a prayer to see me through...

Lastly, I'm coupling the Fearless-February sew-a-long with SewMuchTalent's Stash Smashing month long challenge since I'm sewing from my stash...

NOTHING TO FEAR...

...

I've joined in on Victoria's (TenThousandSewingHours) Fearless February Sew-A-Long.  It challenges sewers to step outside their regular comfort zones.  I must admit that I sometimes get caught up in a sewing comfort zone.  So I joined the sew-a-long:

• to honor Victoria's very first sew-a-long - congratulations Victoria!,
• because she's a home Georgia Girl, and
• because it's high time I shook things up a bit in the sewing room.

My project will exercise (and hopefully expand) my existing tailoring skills. As far as tailoring is concerned,  I've actually not done any since my Lady Grey jacket back in 2010.  I've  used a few techniques on projects here and there,  but it's been far too long since I've made a structured jacket.

The sew-a-long doesn't actually start for 5 more days, but I thought I'd better get a little head start since February is a short month.  Last week I prepared my fabric, traced the pattern, and started fitting a muslin.  It's been an emotional roller coaster already because I really thought I wouldn't need to do much fitting.  Is being able to make up a pattern straight out of the envelope too much to ask???  I guess it is!  I actually considered dumping the whole project at one point, but have since decided to press onward.

I woke up early this morning and after 5 hours of diligent work,

• was able to finalize my muslin (or at least get to a point that I thought was workable/wearable).

• layout and cut my fabric

•  and now I'm actually involved with thread tracing.  Yep, that's right, thread tracing 16 pattern pieces.  Thought I'd finish this part tonight, but mmmmmmm I don't know about that since I've got 10 more pieces to go.

 
Its gonna be one of those labor of love projects that I hope won't take as long to finish as that Lady Grey jacket did.  Maybe it's a good thing that I'm getting an early start...

AREN'T THESE TWO BOOKS THE SAME...

...

I already own this book, but I'm wondering

is this just a reprint of the Singer book?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EXCUSE ME, BUT I CAN'T HELP BUT WONDER...

• what type(s) of interfacing was used in this coat?
• what special couture sewing techniques were used in it's construction?
• when will somebody release a good full length picture of the dress that was underneath?
• which big 4 pattern company will reproduce a pattern for the look?

Never heard of Thom Browne, but he really showed out with this design.  What a beautiful coat!  And those gloves, just the right POP of color.  I couldn't help but get excited about the outfit, and the inauguration as a whole of course...

...I promise you that I didn't plan on making this an all out "Skirt Season" - it just happened - and I just went with the flow.  I do love skirts (guess you've figured that out by now), all types, but especially knit ones.   I had been looking at Mimi G's pencil skirt for months, even watched her YouTube video.  My friend Ebony had made it twice, and vouched for it's simplicity and great fit.  But truth be told friends, I'm just sooooo in tuned to sewing by pattern only - that I rarely venture into DIY land.  But since I'm already d-e-e-p into the skirt demilitarized zone, it wasn't hard to heed Mimi G's call to "Show Off Your Stuff" by using one of her tutorials and then posting to her Flicker group. 

Since our "faux spring" went back into hiding and "real winter" returned today, I decided to wear my Mimi G skirt with my jersey 1001 dalmatian top that I made last year, and my beloved boots.

I felt my sense of style was well rewarded when the Teaching as a Profession instructor asked me to model for her class as "the way to dress professionally on the job" example.  The icing on the cake happened when later in the day a student called me "Fierce".  I have to say a bit "THANK YOU TO MIMI G" for such a stylish day...

MY MOTHER TOLD ME...

... that I need to start taking more pictures wearing my designs.  I'm trying to do just that, but I can't promise how long it will last.  Sometimes it's not convenient to take pictures at work. It's so much easier to just press the finished project and take a picture of it on the dress form.  Sounds lazy I know, but moving on.

Today I wore my self-drafted Carnival skirt with my ponte de roma peplum top - first time I've put this combo together.  I usually wear this skirt with a black sweater. I also wore the red coat that I refashioned last year.

I've got one more bit of blog business to finish - it'll be coming up soon, so stay tuned...

BLOG AWARDS...

...in December Lynn of You SewGirl awarded me two beautiful blog awards.  Another sewing blogger also sent me the same awards around the same time, but I cannot remember who she was.  So sorry that it has taken me this long to acknowledge receipt.

Here are the rules:

1.  Thank the person who nominated you.
2.  Add the One Lovely Blog Award/The Very Inspiring Blogger Award to your post.
3.  Share 7 things about yourself.
4.  Pass the award on to 10 other bloggers that inspire you.
5.  Include the rules.
6.  Inform your nominees.

Seven Things About Me
 1.  I have just a tiny bit of OCDism.  I can't stand it when objects are not straight;  i.e., chairs in a row, pictures on a wall etc.

2.  I am the oldest of four siblings.  I find it amazing that for generations everyone in my family who has had children has had either one child or four - really, I researched this.
 
3.  My body craves dark, leafy green vegetables and I must have them at least two or three times a week.  Good thing right?

4. The majority of my friends are at least 10 years younger than I am.  I never plan it that way - it just always happens.  I actually like having younger friends - they keep my thinking fresh.

5.  I've always secretly aspired to be a writer - there, my secrets out!

6.  I have NEVER traveled outside of the continental United States.  When I was in high school I wanted to be a flight attendant so I could see the world - for free. (I also thought that I wanted to have 12 children - inspired by the book "Cheaper by the Dozen".  I had dreams of Spain, France and England.  Neither of those things happened and I'm o.k. with it now.

 7.  I'm a cookbook collector (at last count I had over 300), but never mind sending me any.  Since I've started back sewing fabric/pattern shopping has taken the place of collecting cookbooks.  I rarely buy any now, but I still MUST have my yearly copy Southern Living Annual Cookbook. I own every copy of it, and actually subscribe so it comes automatically - except for this year.  I need to contact Oxmoor House about my missing 2012 cookbook that hasn't come yet! 

My Inspirational Bloggers
You probably know that I read a lot of blogs and admire and am inspired by them all.  If you aren't already reading these blogs, may I please suggest them:

It's Melanie Darling -http://itsmelaniedarling.blogspot.com
Merchehan -  http://aventurasdecosturas.blogspot.com
Tee -  http://dressed2atee.blogspot.com
Shelly - http://shellystorey.blogspot.com
Yuki - http://mycatsew.blogspot.com/
Tina -http://itsajeansthing.blogspot.com
Beverly - http://bjsewmuchmore.blogspot.com
Judith -http://doobee64.blogspot.com
Lauren - http://laurensvirtualworld.blogspot.com
Sewingsista - http://sewgirl54.blogspot.com

 I AM TRULY GRATEFUL to all who for the acknowledge my blog... 

I DON'T KNOW ABOUT YOUR CAMERA...

...but all of a sudden the one I'm using is adding ten pounds to my frame.  I promise I didn't overeat during the the holidays!!!  Didn't even make the pineapple upside comfort cake I had planned.  It's all my camera's fault.  Anyhow, on with my sewing project report.

Seriously, I didn't just all of a sudden plan to make this deep chocolate ponte roma skirt, I actually envisioned it as part of my wardrobe, and on my body.  So, it had to come to pass.

 I used McCall's 6654 knit skirt pattern for this one too. I underlined it although afterwards found that I really could have gotten away without it.  Strange thing about this ponte roma, the weights differ - solids are a bit heftier than the prints.   I needed something brown in my closet as I'm still wearing black too often.  I heart this skirt, especially paired with my silver pink sweater (that was actually printed on the label, although one of my students called it petal pink) that I got on sale after Christmas.  Pink and brown should definitely be married - don't you think?

The Birthday Girl wanted in on the photo shoot - rightly deserved because after all it was her day.  Isn't she cute with her little tiara?

Then I had to get one of the the rest of the second block bunch as well.  Never mind we also had to take a test today.

...While enjoying my lovely Christmas vacation my sewing room became an impromptu PENCIL SKIRT FACTORY of sorts.  I made one skirt from the new McCall's knit pencil skirt pattern 6654, and can I tell you that I FELL IN LOVE.  What's not to love: a)only three pattern pieces (one of them I eliminated by the way by substituting my own elastic waistband treatment). b)It was an easy peazy way to use up part of my pile of ponte de roma knits.  Yes there is a pile - over in the corner, not to mention that I have some more stashed in a dresser drawer.  Can't you just feel the knit love oozing out?  c)I just love being able to get that tapered pencil skirt shape from knit fabric.  Mind you, I'm still very much in love with the Pamela's Magic Pencil Skirt pattern, but simply could not resist giving the McCall's pattern at least one little try after seeing the cutest mother/daughter snow-leopard duo whipped up by Victoria a little while ago, (still need to get my snow leopard skirt made up).

I actually made four of them, and still have plans for a couple more.  I used Lynn's wedge alteration on this pattern too, but this time decreased the wedge to 1" rather than the 1 1/2" that I had used before.  A word of advise about the wedge though is (it does not work for me when using plaid or stripe fabric) makes it almost impossible to line up.

 All of the skirts are fully underlined with poly-interlock so I don't have to be bothered with a slip.

 I love the ease of pulling one of these things on in the morning.  Match up a top or sweater, tights, zip up a pair of boots - it makes dressing for a comfortable day at work just little bit easier.  I wore two of them to work last week. 

I also managed to re-organize ALL my closets right before returning to work.  Founds some things I really needed to get rid of and a few things I had forgotten I had.  One of them being this 3/4 length coat.  This coat was given to me by not my Grand Mother, but my Great-Grand Mother way back in the 80's.  I can remember LOVING it and wearing it over and over again mainly because my Granny gave it to me.  I still love it, especially the little gold braided hat that is attached to the lapel.  Thought I'd pull it out and give it some more wear.

I was also able to squeeze in a 4 day surprise visit with my grand-children after Christmas.  My daughter knew I'd be arriving the day after but we kept it a secret from the kids.  LOVED IT!!!

I guess the SCARF FACTORY is still open as well.  I made 2 special order big button scarves right before Christmas and have orders for 2 more.  I don't mind - they are so easy to whip up and put a few

extra dollars in my pocket to boot.

I have lots of sewing related plans in the works that I'll mention here later.  Hope everyone had a marvelous weekend....

THANKING GOD FOR ANOTHER NEW YEAR...