MUSLINING MUST BE AN ART??? (long post)

I've actually had my coat muslin made up for over a week now, but didn't feel it was ready for world unveiling (just kidding). On a serious note, have you ever started/or wanted to start a project and just got bogged down in over thinking it??? Well that is what happened to me! I so want to do a good job on this coat.

• For starters, I know that the collar is too short for some reason, as it did not meet the placement markers on the coat front. I need to go back to check it with the pattern - I probably cut the wrong size collar.

• This is the second fitting of my first muslin; it has a 5/8" seam allowance. Initially, it was just a little too snug for wearing over sweaters and the like, so I let out all (7) seams (from 5/8" to 3/8"). I am NOT AT ALL good with fractions at all, but I think I reduced each seam 1/4", making my coat 1 1/2 inches larger overall (feel free to help me with the math). This could account for the collar being too small.

• I can see a problem with the back on the left side. (picture 3) There seems to be more fabric on the left - there definitely are more wrinkle lines. I'm thinking that taking in the center back seam in that area might help alleviate these wrinkles. What do you think.

• I don't think the wrinkling across my back waist area is too bad (pictures 3&5) - your thoughts.

• And what do you think about my sleeves. I can see wrinkles on the underside close to my body. (pictures 2&3) I am almost sure that the sleeve placement is correct. Maybe I'm holding my arms too close to my body??? The back seam of the sleeve is supposed to match up with the back princess seam - am I right?

• Sleeve wrinkles again. (picture 7) Do you think my sleeve placement is correct?

• Do you think the wrinkle pool across my back is being caused by the belt here?

I retraced the entire pattern per suggestions made by Gertie, and was going to sew up an entirely new muslin with 1" seams, but I just could not commit to all of the extra work involved. So I decided to just give this one more try. My kids at school took pictures for me this morning, and after seeing them I feel a whole lot better about this muslin.

NOW, MY FELLOW BLOGGER FRIENDS, I NEED TO KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS AND/OR SUGGESTIONS ABOUT MY MUSLIN. Please consider that I am operating with mid-week brain cells at the moment.

Coat construction is scheduled to commence: Monday, September 27th (my little sister's birthday).

Thought I'd include a picture of the ladies that greet me at 7:45 every morning - AKA My photographers.

SIDELINE SEWING RELATED NOTE: After much hemming and humming I did make it down to the fairgrounds on Saturday to submit my exhibit entries. Who would have thought that both my sewing buddies would be unable to participate this year because they are BOTH of town! Nevertheless, I am a big girl so I went it alone this time. Judging started on Monday of this week, but results won't be revealed until the fair opens (October 7-17). Be assured that I will let you know the outcome....

IT'S GOOD NEWS TO ME...

I do so LOVE my blog! I count it an honor and a privilege that people find it worthy of stopping by to just look in, comment, or answer one my many questions. As with many other aspects of life, I have to refer back to a quote from Mary Kay Ash - you know, the real Mary Kay. "Help enough people get what they want, and you will automatically get what you want". It is my sincere hope that someone somewhere will be able to gain some tidbit of sewing information from my blog.

I received information this evening that my blog has been added to Online Colleges.org's list of 50 Best Blogs for Sewing Students. Well, that is good news to me! There are quite a few other blogs that I recognize on this list.

I've been considering several new features that I want to incorporate into my blog. Just got to work out a few kinks before I do, so be on the lookout...

I've been mentally battling to decide whether or not to do a Textile Entry at our local fair this year. You might remember that I entered 5 items back in 2008 that yielded 5 prize ribbons and a small check. So this morning I pulled 5 hand sewn items from the closet, and I think I'm going for it again this year. This will add some sewing related excitement to my life this weekend.

I worked up the first muslin for my Lady Gray coat (all is going well) and will be posting pictures soon. I can already visualize myself wearing this coat...

GRACIOUSLY ACCEPTED BLOG AWARDS...

I was sent two wonderful blog awards but have yet to acknowledge receiving them. Please, please forgive my slowness, but do know that both awards are graciously accepted.

This first one from http://manecoarse.blogspot.com








and this second one from http://seamsenjoiable.blogspot.com


The rules for the first award are:
1. Tell us what you like about YOUR blog,
2. Then send the award to 10 other blogs that you read.

and, the rules for the second award are:
1. Tell us 10 thing about yourself,
2. Then Send the award to 5 other blogs that you read.

I hope the senders don't mind but I'm taking the liberty of mixing up the rules. I'll tell you what I like about my own blog, and then send BOTH awards on to 5 blogs that I read - Hows about that?

"I love the fact that this is my own personal domain. I can express myself just as I like (although I try to keep the contents clean). I can dress it up or down depending on my mood. I feel free in sharing small tidbits of information that a novice sewer might be able to use. If I get stumped on a project my blog allows me to reach out to thousands of people who have more knowledge of the craft than I, but who are willing and able to help me out. My blog has opened up a whole new world to me, one that is exciting, inspiring. It constantly feeds my hunger for more and more knowledge."

Now to share BOTH awards with 5 other bloggers:

The rules are:

1. Answer the question : "What do you like the most about your own blog?"

2. Pass this award to another five other blogggers.

Sewaholic - wonderfully young, talented, and creative
SewonandSewon - to welcome Lisa back to blogging
Clio - just completed the most amazingly great fitting pants, and is about to embark on creating some fine lingerie
Cindy - my sister from another mother who operates a fantastic "learn to sew" business in South Florida
Candice - creating gorgeous garments from way across the pond.

AFTER MUCH CONTEMPLATION...

...I chose the lining fabric for my upcoming Lady Gray project.

It's actually a charmeusey feeling silky print that I picked up at Joann's this afternoon. The print is a large paisley/flower pattern in the colors purple, brown, off white, and teal on a green background. I didn't want to use a solid, but thought that a lively print would give the coat a certain POP of color that I could flash upon opening (lol). Since the wool flannel shell fabric is light weight, I think the weight of the lining will give the the coat a little more body and warmth. I'm thinking that I might underline with a light batiste, but the verdict is still out on that one.

I also picked up the 1" buttons for the coat



and think I now have everything needed for the job. Tonight I was planning on tracing the pattern on some of my Swedish pattern paper that I picked up at the sewing expo back in March and haven't touched since. I can feel myself getting a little sleepy right now, so I'd better save that job for tomorrow morning.

I scouted Joann's for fabric to make a wearable muslin. I couldn't find anything I liked that wouldn't cost as much as the as the actual coat, so I had to squash that idea. So my plan now is to fit the Swedish pattern paper after stitching it together. We'll see how this plan goes...

Ottobre Shrug...

I just entered a contest where this Ottobre shrug/mini cape/wrap/scarf is the prize in a give a way. I really like it and think it would be a great wrap to spruce up a fall outfit. Hope I wasn't too late in entering.

FINALLY.....

I finished Butterick 5147 sheath (AKA my little black dress). I loved this fabric at first sight, and immediately thought it would make a cute LBD for my graduation day back in June. However, try as I might, I just could not seem to get the dress fitted correctly. So it has hung on the door in my sewing room since that time. I came close to throwing it in the trash several times, but for some reason thought I would eventually get back to it. Lisa came to visit me on Friday and was kind enough to pin fit the dress while I wore it inside out. I made a shoulder seam adjustment by sewing a 1 1/4" seam rather than the original 5/8". Secondly, I tapered the dress in about 1" from the hip area down. I also scooped the neckline out just a little because I thought it was much to high, and that was it.
Simple right? Yes it was! Except, I was in such a hurry to get the dress completed that I stitched the side seams without realizing that (according to the pattern instructions) it would have been much better to install the lining at the neckline and arms before doing so. It would have been much easier to remove the side seam stitching and then attach the lining, but I didn't want to chance losing the fit in the hip area. So I spent the afternoon hand stitching the lining to the armholes. Talk about time consuming. After applying stretch lace and hemming my first self-made LBD is finished. Couldn't do a picture wearing it because I looked a hot mess today. But, I can't believe the fit. It is so comfortable - no pulling, it's just right!

I will make this or a reasonable facsimile in the very near future, but I was amazed that a garment using only two pattern pieces could give me such a fitting fit. But now that it's done, I still love the fabric and now I love the dress. Thanks again Lisa.

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IT AIN'T OVER UNTIL IT'S FINISHED, the inside of the garment that is.

Several posts ago I received a request from an Anonymous commenter that asked for garment finishing tips. She wrote:

"I can see that to take the "next step" in sewing and make my garments look more professional, I need to make the inside look as good as the outside. I know you have talked about the importance of this, but I would love it if I could get some tips on how to do that. The pattern instructions that typically come with your basic Simplicity or whatever pattern just don't really tell you how to do this. E.g. some ways to finish and/or make seams, hems, etc."

The hem finish I use depends on the project type. I took these pictures to illustrate "one way to finish hems" for her ( and anyone else interested). I used Wrights Flexi-Lace Hem Tape (I often call it stretch lace). About 1/2 pack was used for this project. The packages contain 3 yards.

After the hem is measured and pressed, the edge of the fabric
is serged to provide a ravel free surface.

The Flexi- Lace is then pinned to the serged edge of the hem.

Here the lace is stitched to the edge of the hem, right over the
serged edge. I use a medium length zigzag stitch to attach the lace
making sure I do not sew over pins.

This picture show the hem of the dress pinned in place after the lace has been attached.
The dress is now ready to be hand hemmed.

I do not use this method on all garments. I tend to use it on garments that I feel are special, or ones that I know I will keep for a very long time.

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LADY GRAY UPDATE

The purple wool flannel and matching Gutermann thread was in the mailbox on Saturday. The color is not as deep as I had thought, but I do like it. This wool flannel is very similar in weight to suit weight wool. I really don't think it should cause any bulky seam problems at all. I still need to find the lining for the coat, but I'm getting very close to the muslin stage...

THE LADY ARRIVES...

Lady Gray made her way to my mailbox today. Boy that was fast shipping! I couldn't wait to tear into that envelope and have a look at the instructions for the coat. The instructions are actually in a little book form - cute. I read the entire book, and even studied the layout for cutting. The pattern is rated advanced. That rating still intimidates me a little, but I've already committed so I do plan to see this through to completion - God willing.
Mmmm, 14 pattern pieces, not unlike most jackets. Some separate lining pieces; I heard (or read somewhere) that separate lining pieces are a sign of a good pattern. The only thing that I see that might slow me down a little is the two piece sleeve construction. I'll just pull my best sewing references (off the shelf and read up on two piece sleeve construction before I even start on the project.

I REALLY wanted to do the coat in winter white, but knew that wouldn't be practical for me. I thought about black, but not knowing a lot about wool flannel thought that would involve a lot of de-linting. I need to step out of my box just a little, and although purple is not my favorite color I saw a gorgeous shade of fabric online so I consulted my sewing buddy Lisa for her thoughts on it. To quote her "this is going to be a signature piece so it should be somewhat out of your norm - I think you should go for it!" So I ordered this fabric from Denver Fabrics today @ $7.95 per yd regularly $22.00. I also see that Pantone includes a Purple Orchid in their Fall color palette.

Tim Gunn, Chief Creative Officer for Liz Claiborne Inc., and mentor for Bravo’s “Project Runway” offers this advice about adding pops of color to a wardrobe: “Don’t shy away from color. Color is not only a great and budget conscious way to update your wardrobe, it is a wonderful pick-me up." He also gives a couple of tips to keep in mind when shopping for color:

• Color reads best in quality fabrics, hues appear richer and more vibrant in fine wools, cottons and silks. I am a firm believer that if you invest in a few good pieces now,
you will benefit for years to come.

• Be mindful when choosing color. You can’t just admire the color of a garment on a hanger or on your friend, the color must be right for you. Your skin-tone and hair color both come into play. If you like a color and you are unsure, my advice — try it on!”

Next I need to search for just the right lining and buttons for the project. I'm off now to see what I can find...

MAGAZINES & COMMITMENT...

I use to be a magazine junkie! I love them, and one might say I sort of horded them too. But for the sake of eliminating clutter, I can't even begin to tell you how many I tossed out. And after having repeated talks with myself about seriously cutting back on magazine purchases/subscriptions, I rarely buy any at all now, not even many fashion magazines. They just don't seem to turn me on like they use to. However, there is one magazine that I look for each and every year. This one
I've had it since Monday, and I still have not finished leafing through it.

Now about the commitment part: I really did try to talk myself out of it...Gertie's Lady Gray Sew-Along that is. I've seen this coat made up by several people and love it more and more each time I see it. So when I saw that she started this coat sew along, and after much contemplation, I ordered the Lady Gray pattern. As a matter of fact, it shipped today.

So why did I try to talk myself out of it? Well, since my sewing has been a little bit stagnated for the past several months, I really and truly I simply do not know what project(s) I want/need to work on first. In addition, the pattern is rated ADVANCED. Although I don't put myself in the advanced category, I do think I can make it. I just don't want to bite off more than I can chew, nor do I want a pattern that I might have to fight with. Colette patterns are new to me, and you know how it can be when you are so use to sewing only from the big 4 - sort of intimidating to say the least. So why did I go ahead and commit/purchase the pattern??? I'll explain my rational/self argument here:

• I did commit to the "Go Chanel or Go Home" challenge this time last year, and did complete it - on schedule I might say
  

• Because I really do like the style of the coat

• The Lady Gray coats that I've seen made up are GORGEOUS
• Even if I don't sew it during the sew along, I might sew it one day
• I'd hate to get locked out of another coat sew along and not be able to reap a wealth of information from a whole lot of knowledgeable sewists
• Get the pattern while its available at a 5% discount, at least that pays for the shipping
  

Now that the commitment has been made and the pattern is on the way, I'm officially placing The Lady Gray sew along label on my blog.


We'll just see what happens next...

TO EASE OR NOT TO EASE, THAT IS THE QUESTION????????

I was such a blog surfer yesterday. That's one great thing about Saturdays for me; especially since I got the bill payment chore out of the way last week, and did laundry/cleaned the house on Friday. That meant that Saturday belonged to me! I could have gone out snoop shopping, and there really was a few things that I wanted to canvas, but I really didn't need to do that - might have made some unintentional purchases again - you know how I am. I just let the urge to go out subside because I really didn't feel like rationalizing or arguing with myself about not spending this weekend. A friend called and wanted to come over to present some information on his new business, and I said to myself "no way buddy, no sales presentations made here today"! I am quite a social person, however, sometimes I REALLY need Saturdays that are reserved ONLY for me. Call it selfish time, it's important to me. So most of the day was spent surfing/learning.

One little bit of sewing information that resurfaced was about easing sleeves in by the flat construction application which really is my favorite way to do sleeves. I use the conventional method of sewing the shoulder seam and side seam of the garment then attaching the sleeve ONLY when I can't get away around it (such as when using a two piece sleeve). But, even in using the flat method, I still have to ease stitch/gather the sleeve and try to distribute evenly. I have also adopted Sandra Betzina's method of decreasing or removing some of the ease in sleeves, which certainly helps too.

But what I've heard of several times before is the method of sewing the sleeve in with the sleeve next to the feeddogs, and allowing them to do the (work) easing for me. Many people probably use this method regularly without even thinking about it, BUT I NEVER REALLY TRUSTED IT TO WORK. While surf/learning yesterday I ran across this blog:

http://gelbeansews.blogspot.com/2010/06/peggy-sagers-dozen-favorite-sewing.html

Bonnie had attended several sewing workshops (Cynthia Guffey and Peggie Sagers) and reviewed both of them in her posts. She got the information on easing sleeves from Peggie Sagers, and here are the notes that I made from her notes:

1. Use a pin to match the center or top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam of the garment
2. Decrease sleeve cap seam to 3/8"
3. Sew with the sleeve on the bottom next to the feeddogs to allow them to help ease in fullness

As I said, I've read and heard of this before but didn't trust it to work, but today I decided "what the heck, lets see"...if it doesn't work, that's what they made seam rippers for! But guess what???, it did work!

Just thought I'd mention it here just in case there are some people who have never heard of this application method, or did hear of it but didn't trust it....

IT WAS ANOTHER FRIDAY NIGHT SEW-IN...

...and I decided to participate since my sewing production has ranged from unusually slow to non-existent over the past couple of months. I used the sew-in as a motivator to get some things done that I had been procrastinating on. For the July sew-in I altered two very cute but unwearable skirts that I had made two summers ago. The skirts had become unwearable because I've lost weight, and inches.

NEWS FLASH: As of today's weigh-in I am down 16 pounds, 10 inches! That puts me half way to my goal.
Ya'll help me pray that I can keep it off this time.

I used the August sew-in as a motivator to finish up a Home Dec project started for a friend back at the end of May. That's correct, I've procrastinated on this since May. The tablecloth was made from three 50" x 84" drapery panels that I had to un-hem on four sides each, then piece together (I used french seams), to make the fabric wide enough for the project. Then we meticulously calculated the circumference of her antique (belonged to her grand-mother) table. After cutting the big circle, the fabric was turned under and hemmed twice. When I started to pin the fringe to the bottom, I discovered that there wasn't enough. Of course when she returned to Hobby Lobby to get more they were out, and we had to wait for an order to come in. When she told me that she wanted 2" cut off before attaching the trim, I just sort of completely shut down because I wanted to finish the thing, not do more work on it. Then I got really ultra busy with four graduations (one of them my own), an out of state trip, work, and three out of town conferences. What can I say, I just kept putting it off and putting it off some more. All the time feeling tied to it and not really being able to commit to anything else sewing wise. Having UFO'S make me feel imprisoned.

This sew-in seemed to be the perfect solution to this problem. I finished it!, and here's a picture of my first Home Dec project in a very long time. Completing this tablecloth also helped me accomplish one of my #4 2010 Sewing goals although it's not a project for my own home.

4. Try (a little) Home Decor.

In the meantime I took the last pair of white pants for a test drive yesterday. Although I really thought they fit well a couple of weeks ago when I made them, they are now feel and look too big and need to be altered. I've started adding a built in escape route in my pants by adding a center back seam in the waistband. This makes altering just a little bit easier. So altering these pants will be my next project for the weekend...

UNINTENTIONAL PURCHASES....

....have you ever gone into a store with plans to buy absolutely nothing! I guess you might ask, "why go to the store then"? Well, the new Joann's in Macon advertised that they were distributing their Teacher Discount Cards starting Saturday with the infamous disclaimer "while supplies last". Being the lover of fabric stores that I am, I really needed to get that card before supplies were exhausted.

With this in mind I made the trek to River Crossing, which is no short distance, to get my 15% discount card but with all intentions of not purchasing a thing. There was a long waiting line when I got there, so I thought I'd take a little look around. To my surprise, the nice purple plaid nubby textured fall suiting fabric was still there. I had eyed this fabric ($12.95/yard mind you) on an earlier visit when the store first opened. I thought that the fabric was really beautiful and would make the cutest jacket/skirt suit for fall, but would cost me at least $45. Having just returned from my annual New York trip with loads of fabric, another $45 would not fit into the budget - so I convinced myself to leave the fabric there. After all, I just can't have everything my beady little eyes want!

But you know how it is - when I got home I had a bout of "not buying remorse" about that fabric. Have you ever experienced that feeling before? I told myself "you should have gotten at least a yard and half for a fall skirt". But oh well, so it is with not buying remorse. Figured it would be all gone by the time I got back to the store. But guess what, it wasn't. I not only got my 1 1/2yd of the purple plaid nubby stuff, and an additional 1 1/2yd of a cute black and white plaid to boot! I had to talk to myself and convince "me" that...not every suiting fabric has to become an entire suit (duh!). Yes, I do talk to myself on the regular! It sometimes saves me from much financial remorse. Notice I did say "sometimes", because I have also been known to argue right back with myself with amazing logic, but this time the sensible side won out. To make this trip an even better scenario, Joann's was offering an additional 20% teacher discount for Saturday only! So, I got fabric for two new fall skirts for $24...Yea me!!!
I can see either new skirt paired with a black wool blazer (already in my closet), and simple black and purple crew neck sweaters (yet to be purchased from Chadwick's) for two classic fall work outfits. It's wonderful to have some degree of fashion building foresight, isn't it?....