I WANT IT ALL - PART 3...

...pants fitting - yes I'm still at it.  I decided I needed to make a second muslin.  Yes it was  a real time consuming Memorial Day task

Christmas of 2015 one of my customers gave me a big old Joann's gift certificate and this is part of what I used it for (and patterns of course).  I usually use old white sheets for muslins, but my sheet stash is getting a little low.  This muslin is 90" wide.

I transferred changes from the first muslin to the second muslin.  After making so many changes things started to get a little confusing, so I've started writing all my changes down in a journal.  Should have started doing this long ago.

Muslin #2

I have just a little bit of wrinkling in the front (mmmmm), but I do have an attractive and comfortable fit.

Earlier this month I had joined up with the Pin It Sew It Event sponsored by the hosts of "That Sewing Blab"  a weekly internet talk show (I hope you consider watching this show if you haven't done so already).  For this event participants select a Pinterest garment to make.

Since I'm working on pants I chose this wide flare legged pair as the inspiration for my entry.

I'll still be concentrating on pants fitting for a while, because remember, I WANT IT ALL...

I WANT IT ALL - PART 2...

...hang in here with me folks! I hope you are willing to help see me through my "I want it all" pants fitting series.  I'm being a bit greedy with this because I want to be able to have pants of all types.

I will be working with my TNT pattern that I mentioned yesterday.  But today I made a decision to work with Vogue 9032- view c the flare leg design.

I've read all of the reviews that I could find on this pattern, and what attracted me to it other than the flare leg, were the slant pockets and the princess seamed back.   I've never worked with a two piece back pants pattern before but thought it would give me more options to tailor my fit.

Well, here's the first muslin for Vogue 9032. (Remember I said I am willing to make as many muslins as necessary in this pants fitting session).  Seriously, I am pretty happy with muslin #1, it's a real rough draft of a muslin.  This muslin was made over a week ago and I've lost count of the number of times I've tried it on thus far.

My critique: I need to make an adjustment in the slant pocket area that I don't think will be too hard to manage.   I'm not sure if I should try to address the bit of bagginess in the knee area, of if this would work it's self out when made in real fabric; I'll have to think about that a little more. I increased the center back rise one full inch which feels quite comfortable now.

I've included this video from one of Andrea Davis' Fit Friday classes to my pant's fitting resources. She gives regular pattern fitting classes via YouTube and other internet platforms.  I attended this class and thought it would be interesting and helpful to my readers as well.... 

IMPERFECTLY PERFECT...

...it's been a while, but I'm currently working on pants again.  The project is an UFO that I started and cut out last summer.  I'm working on refining my TNT pants pattern AND also on developing a pants block that will hopefully assist me in using other pants patterns of my choice. (does that make sense?)  The current pair was meant to be a wearable muslin, so I have new pants.

I used Burda 7062 which are close fitting, has waist facings and side zipper (moved the zipper to the back seam.)

My pants after a couple hours wear.  I'm calling them Imperfectly perfect.  I really like the fit and plan to make them again raising the crouch curve just a little next time.  There are two additional UFO's living in my sewing room.  How many reside in yours????


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FOR THOSE WHO MIGHT BE INTERESTED...

...I wanted to post Gwen’s entire email where she gave me advice on eliminating the diagonal front wrinkling that plagued my pants fitting.  To my dismay – I cannot find the email.  I must have deleted it!  I can’t believe it got deleted because I save everything.  No problem though, I can share the information from memory because I use it regularly.  I’ll also point you to some other wrinkle eliminating information that might also be helpful.

My diagonal wrinkling problems radiate from the front crouch area below the fly zipper up to side seams. 

•  In this picture you can see where I folded out and pinned the excess that causes the wrinkling (wish I had taken a picture before I folded and pinned).

• I pinned from the crouch area, starting just below the zipper, and tapered up to nothing at the side seam/slant pocket area. I started pinning below the zipper because I did not want to alter the zipper length; and tapered to nothing at the slant pocket/side seams for the same reason – I did not want to alter the length of the pocket opening.  

• In this picture the right side is still pinned, but on the left I’ve stitched the excess up into a long diagonal dart  

• I measured the amount pinned out in the muslin and transferred the same alteration to the front pattern piece.  This has made a tremendous difference in the fit of this pattern for me.

I think my wrinkles indicate that my pattern’s front crouch length is too long – just guessing here because as you know – I am no expert.

Gwen’s advice also convinced me to purchase Palmer & Pletsch’s book “Pants for Real People” that I had been reluctant to buy before that time.  If you have the book, I’d like to direct your attention to page 31 (bagginess in the back).  Although this section speaks about problems with the back pattern piece, it can also be applied to problems with bagginess in the front.   Page 54 (chalk-mark stitching lines) refers to chalk marking an adjustment made at the waistline; and (the waistband) is also helpful.

P.S.  Although tissue fitting is shown in the book – I NEVER pin fit – I’m a muslin girl (just my personal preference).  I’m afraid that I will tear and destroy the pattern; I always work with muslins instead.  Hope you find this helpful…

PANTS FITTING ISSUES...(detailed post)

...I can't believe that I didn't make a single pair of pants during the fall/winter season.  If you'll remember, it was back in September when I became completely involved with my Carnival of Skirts - that later turned into a sew-a-long -  and I didn't stop until mid-January when I began completely involved with making over my fabulous pea coat.  Boy didn't I enjoy wearing all those skirts ALL WINTER LONG!  Now I find myself in desperate need of new pants.

Last weekend I tried a new pants pattern - didn't work, caused disgust, trashed them immediately - don't even want to talk about that pattern.   So now I'm coming to terms with my old TNT pant pattern.  Yes, it's an OLD pattern, but I've been able to come up with some pretty nice looking and fitting pants from this pattern.  I wore a pair made from it a few weeks ago and a sewing friend asked if I made them.  She said that had she not known that I make the majority of my clothes, she would have thought they were RTW.  I trust her judgment not only because I was flattered, but it did serve to help with my confidence level.

When I make this pattern I turn the front tucks into darts for a more modern appeal.

Every pair made from this pattern have not been a total success, but the majority have.  Yet, I call it a TNT.   BUT if I still have to work out kinks, wrinkles, or other fitting issues IS IT TRULY A TNT PATTERN???  So I went back to the drawing board with the same old pattern - determined that when I need a new pair of pants, I'll be able to pick this thing up and simply whip up a pair - voila, yeah just like that!

So I:

•  re-traced the original pattern
• cut a new muslin without any preconceived alterations- starting from scratch
• extra tedious work - yes!  But I plan on it being well worth it  

  What does it matter that my pants are made alike?  I contend, especially when time is of the essence, that correct fit, good construction, and quality fabric is really all that matters with this particular garment. 

Here's a picture of my major pants fitting issue and what I'm doing to eliminate it:

Pockets are sagging a little, but I can fix that by stabilizing that area during pocket construction.

It's odd, but this pattern fits me perfectly in the back.  But as you can see from the front, I'm plagued with diagonal wrinkles that extend from the crouch to the side seam.  Here you can see that I've  following Peggy Sagers advice:

• working with a muslin I've pinched out the wrinkles, pinned up the excess (right side) in a diagonal dart, and then stitched the dart in (left side). 
• Peggy (see, now I'm acting like I really know her personally) suggests disassembling the muslin and using it as the actual pattern rather than chancing error when transferring the alteration it to the original pattern piece.

Next I'll:

• mark all basted seam allowances that I've altered to make a better fit, 
• then remove all the basting stitches, completely dissembling the muslin, and
• use the muslin pieces as my pattern. 

I won't make a second muslin because I think my diagonal wrinkle problem will be solved.  I have three pairs of pants planned as my next sewing projects, one pair being (believe it or not) floral. 

Maybe by mid week I'll have a new pair of wrinkle free pants...

THE TRUE SEWING TEST...

 GIVE-A-WAY UPDATE:  What's Up CupCake is having a great book give-a-way!  Check it out here.

... the TRUE TEST OF SEWING is wearing my hand sewn garments during an entire work day.    Although I muslin, and try  the garment on all through the construction process, just when I think everything is perfect - guess what?, sometimes it isn't.   I work  a little bit too far to come home for lunch to make adjustments or change clothes, so whatever  I choose to wear in the morning is it for the day - good or bad.

I wore the second pair of green pants today, and really and truly I LOVED THE FIT!

 I have at least four more pair planned for the summer.

Only 15 days of school left this semester so every one wanted in on the pictures.  These girls are all seniors so this is the last year that they will be with me.  It's a bitter sweet situation....

IT WAS ANOTHER FRIDAY NIGHT SEW-IN...

...and I decided to participate since my sewing production has ranged from unusually slow to non-existent over the past couple of months. I used the sew-in as a motivator to get some things done that I had been procrastinating on. For the July sew-in I altered two very cute but unwearable skirts that I had made two summers ago. The skirts had become unwearable because I've lost weight, and inches.

NEWS FLASH: As of today's weigh-in I am down 16 pounds, 10 inches! That puts me half way to my goal.
Ya'll help me pray that I can keep it off this time.

I used the August sew-in as a motivator to finish up a Home Dec project started for a friend back at the end of May. That's correct, I've procrastinated on this since May. The tablecloth was made from three 50" x 84" drapery panels that I had to un-hem on four sides each, then piece together (I used french seams), to make the fabric wide enough for the project. Then we meticulously calculated the circumference of her antique (belonged to her grand-mother) table. After cutting the big circle, the fabric was turned under and hemmed twice. When I started to pin the fringe to the bottom, I discovered that there wasn't enough. Of course when she returned to Hobby Lobby to get more they were out, and we had to wait for an order to come in. When she told me that she wanted 2" cut off before attaching the trim, I just sort of completely shut down because I wanted to finish the thing, not do more work on it. Then I got really ultra busy with four graduations (one of them my own), an out of state trip, work, and three out of town conferences. What can I say, I just kept putting it off and putting it off some more. All the time feeling tied to it and not really being able to commit to anything else sewing wise. Having UFO'S make me feel imprisoned.

This sew-in seemed to be the perfect solution to this problem. I finished it!, and here's a picture of my first Home Dec project in a very long time. Completing this tablecloth also helped me accomplish one of my #4 2010 Sewing goals although it's not a project for my own home.

4. Try (a little) Home Decor.

In the meantime I took the last pair of white pants for a test drive yesterday. Although I really thought they fit well a couple of weeks ago when I made them, they are now feel and look too big and need to be altered. I've started adding a built in escape route in my pants by adding a center back seam in the waistband. This makes altering just a little bit easier. So altering these pants will be my next project for the weekend...

ON AGAIN, OFF AGAIN ISP...

First it's on, then it's off, on again, then off the next day, now it's back on again! I guess I'm officially addicted because I want to scream when I'm without my internet service! All I could do was grit my teeth because I'm certainly not going to pull out my hair (took me too long to grow it back). When the service is out, all I can think about is what I want to google but can't!

For reasons unknown to me my sewing hiatus has been extended. Since before my vacation the only sewing has been to finish the off white linen pants that were so close to being completed before I left. All I needed to do was sew on two buttons and hem the lining and the pants. I really love this fabric and wish that I had gotten more of it. It has such a smooth and creamy feel to it. I battled with the fact that the pants needed to be lined, but they turned out nicely and wore pretty darn good to boot. Here's a little self photography just before going to work . (I must have gotten up early that morning since I had time to do this.)




I think I could have hemmed them just a bit shorter. My TNT pattern still needs a little more tweaking because I am losing weight, and plan to lose quite a bit more-Lord willing. As I said, the pants wore nicely, but are just a bit large through the hip and leg area - (feels really good to say that). Since I started them a few weeks ago (I've lost 9 1/2 pounds & 5 inches overall). I might go under that lining to make adjustments - notice I did say might. All in all this slightly vintage pattern is working out for me. I do however feel that it's time for me to experiment with other pants patterns though. But I'll keep this old Simplicity pattern close by as my go to pants pattern when I need a pair in a hurry.

Got to make another trip, but hopefully I'll be really revved up to sew when I get back. Normally I get really concerned on the rare occasions when I'm just not in the mood to sew - but not this time. I have more than enough fabric, patterns, equipment and inspiration stored up in here to make major wardrobe impact as soon as the mood shows back up. I've got another month for summer sewing, and with high school starting in just a few weeks I really need to garner up some motivation. But for right now, I'm just going with it. Thank God that when He created EBB tide, He also made provisions for FLOW...

New Pants

I've been working on a new pants pattern for two weeks now. First I did a muslin and boy am I glad I did.

My Project Recap:
Simplicity 2700; pattern includes customized fitting instructions

• Ok, so I'm still in search of the perfect pants pattern. I know I must have at least 15 pants patterns, but I'm still searching for the one that I can just pull out of the envelope to make me a pair of great fitting pants. I think this pattern is almost it - notice I said almost.

• Don't get me wrong, this is a good pattern, however I did have a few problems with it. First problem ten (10) pattern pieces. Come on now, can't I get that great fit with say five pieces. For the pockets 3 pieces; then there was the back and front pieces; the zipper area 2 pieces; the back waist band and two separate front waist band pieces. When I get really rich I'm hiring somebody to put the pattern pieces back in the envelopes...how about that!

• The pattern has room built in for adjustments like 1" side seam and back seam allowances that really, really helped me out. The pattern also have sizes that fit slim, average and curvy body types. Of course I used the curvy pattern - should be glad for my curves - because I remember when I had none and wanted them so badly (lol), now I have an abundance of them. We have to be careful of what we ask.

• Fabric used: Lightweight Black with thin pink stripe. Fabric Type: I don't really know, but it was a really good Walmart price from my New York vacation fabric purchase last summer.

• The pockets do lie flat and were not hard to construct so you know I like that.
  

• Notions: Medium weight fusible interfacing; thread; two (3/4") button because I couldn't find the 1/2" buttons called for; some lining material I had on hand for the pockets; a 9" nylon zipper and stretch lace for the hem.

• I had a problem with the front fly zipper application. Too much work. I prefer the Sandra Betzina's mock fly application and that is what I will use next time.
  

• Problem number 2 - the waistband. This pattern has a contoured waist band that comes in four pieces. Two for the back and a separate front left and right band. I always have a problem with this type waistband.
  

• The pants fit well, I think I will enjoy wearing them and plan on making a pale pink knit top (I have the knit in my stash) to wear along with them.
  

• I am planning on making these pants again as soon as possible but I will surely be making changes to the zipper application.
  

Here's my picture, I'll be wearing them to work as soon as I get my matching top made. I don't know how well the pictures I took will show up, but dang these pants fit me real good. Yayaaaa me! While making these I had made up my mind that I wasn't going to use this pattern again. But they fit so well that I guess I'll have to fool with that darn contour waistband again after all.



Also, here's a sewing confession: Why is it that every time I make machine worked buttonholes I forget to pull down that little lever next to the needle that sets the buttonhole mechanism in motion? I forget to do each and every time and there I am trying to start the first buttonhole and the machine just won't cooperate at all...until I have that "light bulb moment" and finally remember what to do...

Doesn't Take Much to Get Me Excited

I finally got around to asking a friend to help me take my measurements accurately. I had been planning on doing this for a while, but just kept putting it off. I called her before I left work today and although she was baking a wedding cake and grooms cake for this coming Saturday, she said that she had time for me to stop by...and so I did. She even let me use two of her sewing books (like I needed another one), but I do like one of them - Singer 101 Sewing Secrets.

I have been studying Nancy Zieman's Fitting Finesse which is easy to understand and makes a lot of sense to me.

I am particularily interested in learning to fit pants properly. The problem I currently have is that if I get the pants to fit in the waist, the hips are way to large and the crouch sags, and neither is very comfortable or attractive. According to this book the solution is to pick my pattern size according to my hip size (size 16) then alter the pattern to fit my waist (size 18) adding the suggested ease. I had taken all of the measurements that I could comfortably take by myself, but of course needed help with others. So I took the book with me when I stopped by my friend's house this afternoon and she took all of the measurements for me as suggested by Nancy's book.

I am hoping that I am smart enough to follow the information in the book and finally come up with a TNT pants pattern or patterns that will help me MAKE PANTS THAT REALLY FIT!!! Now I can already see where my sagging crouch problem comes from. My crouch measurement is close to 4 inches shorter than the pattern so to fix that would really help. Of course I will be making a muslin before I cut my fashion fabric and will post results when it is done.

MY PANT FITTING DILEMIA

I am still fighting with this pant fitting thing...I am really trying; preshrunk my material (something that I never use to do), made the muslin and even tried to make the adjustments to the pattern afterwards. My pants are still to large in the waist and the hips, eeeeeek! All I want to do is get my pants to fit properly - but who doesn't want that. When I use to sew before, I found a pattern that fit pretty good and made and remade the same pattern until I could almost make it in my sleep (pattern was almost shredded up), but it still worked and I continued to use it.

I love a side zipper so I made these crop pants

and they are still to large. Like I said before, I made the muslin, then tried to make the proper adjustments on the pattern, then cut my fashion fabric. Of course it's hard or next to impossible to make adjustments once the zipper is in. So that I am about to embark upon tonight is taking the facing out, removing the zipper and redoing these to try and make them fit...a real bit job but someone has to do it. But them again would it be worth all that time???? Will they be Trash or Treasure - I'll have to decide.

Anyways, I think this will be the next pattern I will try. I still want the crop pants (atleast that is what I call them) but this pattern is different in that they have a front fly zipper and a traditional waistband rather than the side zipper and waist facing. Well I'm off to sew now, will let you know how it turns out.