CREATING MY PANT'S BLOCK...

...block, sloper whatever it's called, I want one and am determined to create one.  Other than a pant's muslin that I made here, I haven't worked on my TNT pant's pattern since maybe early 2015 or late 2014. Consequently, I find myself needing new pants.  I kept telling myself that I needed to venture into new pants pattern territory - after all, I have so many new ones in my stash.  After spending an enormous amount of time trying to decide just what new pattern to use, I've decided to go back and tweak my TNT, rather than spending time totally reinventing the wheel.  I pulled the pattern out and made a few more adjustments according to newly acquired information before cutting out a pair to work on during the course of the week.

The remnants.  I barely had enough of the fabric for this project.

I'm hoping to get an even better fit this time.  Keeping my fingers crossed, because I am really ready to commit this pattern to tag or something similar.  I want this TNT pattern to finally become my  block/sloper so it can be used to judge and adjust other new pants patterns. 

In the meantime, I'm declaring today as sewing machine cleaning and maintenance day following SheilaCTK's lead.  I have to admit that mine are long overdue for cleaning.   Who's next...

IT'S BEEN A LONG TIME SINCE I'VE TAKEN A PICTURE...

...why?, because I hate taking pictures.  But I realize that posting pictures wearing my hand crafted garments from time to time is necessary for good blog documentation.   After not making pants for an entire year, I decided it was time to add a few new pair to my wardrobe rotation.  When the pants idea first came up I was all ready to start working on a brand new (to me) pants pattern.  I pulled out several patterns, cut the paper pieces out, and then remembered why I took an entire month last spring tweaking my same old TNT pattern.  The number one reasons:

• limited number of pattern pieces (a two piece slant pocket is enough for me and gives me the look and feel I like).  Call me narrow, but the same goes for the waist band; a one piece waistband fits my body and needs quite well.
• Come on Faye, why re-invent the wheel?  What you wanted was a good fitting pant pattern, that you could whip up in a couple hours sewing time.  You've worked hard to get it, so just go with it.

Since my re-emergence a couple of weeks ago I've made three new pair and decided to test drive one of them today.

 

Not too tight, not too loose, comfortable all day long.  Minimal diagonal wrinkling across the front thanks to information received from one of my sewing mentors, Gwen.  I will never forget the wrinkle elimination tips she taught me by email.

The other 2 pair that I call radiant orchid and turquoise (I think)

I also love the ease of wearing skirts so I revisited McCall's 6654 to add two colorful knit #2 pencils  this weekend.   I think my sewing sessions produced some much needed splashes of color to my otherwise neutral way of dressing. 

Turquoise and Coral both of pontederoma

I'm not on one of my usual all out sewing marathons (yet), but I think I'm off to a great sewing season.  I really did enjoy being able to sew the past two weekends - it was like taking a breath of really fresh air...

INSPITE OF THE STORM...

...whenever I plan a concentrated weekend of sewing - it always starts on Friday evening.  As a matter of fact, this past Friday I had planned an all nighter because after all it's been quite a while since I've pulled one of those. My plans were postponed just a little by one of our extreme Georgia Summer thunderstorms.  You know it had to be a bad one if I felt unsafe sitting at my sewing machine that's stationed in front of a window.  I finally just gave in and went to bed.

I did get a chance to finish my second pair of bell bottom pants on Saturday.  I had cut them out on Tuesday; marked on Wednesday, installed the front fly zipper (went in perfectly without a hitch - LOVE WHEN THAT HAPPENS), and stitched in the pocket lining on Thursday.  It would have been so easy to finish them on Friday, but oh well.  I love my navy bells that I made during my pants marathon back May so much that I thought I also needed a red pair.  I will show a picture later this week.

Weekend sewing plans included another rendition of the Vogue 1282 top.

I've worn the wearable muslin of this top repeatedly this summer and felt that I definitely needed  a black version because it's such a great top.

I found this black ITY knit at Hancock Fabrics and though was a little pricey, thank goodness for 50% off coupons that make having some of the fabrics I want possible.  This top will make a great addition to my closet, and although sleeveless will be worn with a jacket in fall/winter.

All and all I count this weekend quite productive even with the postponement due to the storm.  Maybe it was best that I didn't pull an all nighter,  guess I just needed to get my rest...






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FRIDAY, LAST FRIDAY, NEXT FRIDAY, FRIDAY AFTER NEXT...

... every Friday is a GREAT Friday! Happy Summer Solstice Friday to boot!  Its been one of those weeks folks -  I survived solely on sewing thoughts - not a stitch sewn - no projects in the works, nothing on the drawing board.  Hopefully that will all change now that its FRIDAY!!!

I originally got the "I've got to have Print Pants" notion last summer, but for some reason unbeknownst to me they never got made.  But this year during my May pants fitting marathon I finally got around to making a pair.   I liked them, they fit fine, BUT as it turned out I was a little timid about wearing them - some of you might understand my plight - I'm bold for my age, but not too bold.  I finally decided that THIS FRIDAY would be the day that they got worn.  I  left myself no other alternative this morning - it was these pants or nothing, and I couldn't leave the house in nothing - right?  I had a dickens of a time pairing them up with a matching top but finally choose a plain black tank... 

Did they past the test drive?  Yes they did (I'm glad to say)!  Made from a Joann's stretch cotton satin originally intended for a sheath dress - they did not grow during the day so my fit remained stable.  They are a nice length, comfortable through the hip area, and no gaping at the back waistband.  They got a 100% from me, and student evaluation was all quite positive.  I had shown them pictures of the pants previously and they kept asking when I was going to wear them - so there you go.

What's going to come out of the sewing room this weekend - I'm planning a Mini Maxi Marathon.  Maxi's are generally quick, and use at least 2 yards of knit fabric.  MY MOTIVE:  I really need new and exciting knits!  To justify the purchase I need to seriously decrease those already in my stash.  No need of piling new knits on top of stashed knits.  Besides, knits do no fold very well and take up so much fabric space.  My baby Sister (Pat) requested a maxi back in January - and what my baby Sister wants she usually gets - from me that is.  She might even send me a picture wearing it since she's a camera buff, who knows.  Can't make for one and not the other, so there will be a maxi for my middle Sister (Brenda) as well -  my Mother (Inell) would probably enjoy this years model too - not to mention I need a couple for myself.  That could mean a deduction of at least 10 knit yards.   I need to poke the relatives for measurements tonight because I feel the time is now.  No measurements - No Maxi's.  So they'd better find a tape measures real quick while the maxi motivation is high.  Be on the lookout for  maximized sewing results from me this weekend...

SUMMER BREEZES PANTS COLLECTION...

...I know, it's about time - right?  I started working on pants for my Summer Breezes Wardrobe collection back on April 21st.  It was a long road people, but I do want to send out a big THANK YOU out to all   who stood on the sideline advising and cheering me on.  (I have the tendency of making a big deal out of everything - don't I?, - it's just my nature folks.)    I've had the idea for the Summer Breezes collection for several years - even named it, but just could never come up with the just the right fabrics in colors and prints that I loved at one time to make it come into being.  This is the same reason I've always found it hard to pull together any other hand crafted capsule or collection. 
 
But for this summer I decided to just go for it using fabrics that I had on hand and adding others along the way until I felt the collection was complete.  My vision of a summer wardrobe is one that is light,   airy and filled with water colors - ones that you think of for a mini beachy vacation or rendezvous.  Georgia is so HOT  people, and that makes little Summer Breezes a welcome treat when ever they do come along!  You get the picture I'm sure.

So today I debuted my cobalt pants with a top from last years sewalong which I think matched up pretty nicely.

I'm in love!!!  Not too snug, not too loose, no pulling or adjusting needed during the day.  They didn't grow on me as the day wore on, and everyone LOVED the color.  I'm happy folks, and feel that my month's worth of fitting work has paid off.  That's saying a lot for me when it comes to hand crafted pants.  I told my students about my print pair and they want me to wear them tomorrow for them to see because we only have four more days of school left.

Finally, a picture with one of my most favorite students, Briona.

She's graduating 3rd in her class.  Love her!  She's received a full ride college scholarship, and will major in music!  Briona never gave me one minutes trouble during the two years she was in my class.  Eager and thirsty for knowledge.  My prayers and a piece of my heart are going off to college with her too...

THANKS FOR BEARING WITH ME...

...through my pants phase.  I've actually complete 5 pair - with only one pair being questionable.  The questionable pair (made prior to making a second muslin) is wearable (worn twice).  But due to the fabric choice, and a few wrinkles that I couldn't get rid of, I don't think they'll have closet longevity.   I recently completed pairs 4 and 5 that I am very happy with.  After a mini meltdown about a serious flaw  found in my beautiful stretch cotton sateen print fabric

I took my friend's advice and folded it width-wise.  Thank goodness - I was just barely had enough room for my pant length.  Full meltdown averted!

So here's another door picture of my latest projects

Black Gaberdine and print Cotton Sateen

To be honest, I have to admit that I'm about SICK of making pants.  Oh, I'm mighty glad that I've finally got the fit right, but there is something within me that forces me to work on an original plan until it's completely done is starting to wear on me.  Do you think I might have a little OCDness??? 

PANTS FITTING U...

...I'm still attending Pant's Fitting U.  Can't really give an anticipated graduation date, but I can tell you that I entered this semester willing and hungry to learn. 

I have completed two nice fitting pairs.  They are awaiting new tops that I have planned before I wear them.  I know that you'd probably like to see me wearing the pants to show the fit rather than a picture of them hanging on a door, but that's all I've got right now.  My plan was to make 5 pairs of great fitting  pants complete with a variety of matching tops - a complete 5 day wardrobe.  Wouldn't that be nice???  That's still the plan, but in the meantime,  here's a picture of my progress thus far

 

Cobalt Gaberdine and Aqua Linen Blend

 I'm currently making a much needed black pair, but I already have this fabric earmarked for my fourth pair.  This print definitely means that I am stepping out of my comfort zone, but  I've been wanting print pants f-o-r-e-v-e-r.  The colors fit perfectly in the vision I have for my "SUMMER BREEZES" wardrobe. 

Now it's back to work making the other 3 pair of pants a reality...



 

Pant's Muslin #2, and I Won Something...

...it took me an entire week to get back to my pant's fitting task because the week was so very busy.   By the time I got home each evening I was so pooped that I thought it best not to sew - so didn't.  In the meantime I watched two pants fitting videos - the one that was very helpful was from the Thread's Fitting DVD series, for waist and hips) and another one (which I won't even name) wasn't so helpful.

Taking the information I gathered from the Thread's DVD,  I took the changes made to muslin #1 (from last week), transferred them to my pattern, and made up muslin #2.  I was willing to sacrifice time for this extra work because I truly believed that it would yield great results.  Here's Muslin #2, and  I'm satisfied with the results.

MUSLIN #2

The muslin is comfortable sitting and standing (in fact, I'm wearing it right now).   I only had to try it on three times opposed to the usual 10 to 12 times (no kidding).  Could the muslin be better fit?  I believe that it could be tweaked further if I had the use of extra hands and another set of eyes.  But for my solitary efforts of fitting myself by myself, I think I did a good job.  I feel that I've learned a lot about pants fitting this go around, and am certain that if someone else needed help fitting pants I could be a valuable help.

There are five pair of pants in my summer wardrobe plans.  Hope I have zippers stashed in all the right colors.  Speaking of zippers - I usually pull out a special set of instructions I have for front fly zippers.  Recently I couldn't find my laminated copy and had to wing the zipper insertion.  I found that I've been using the instructions as a crutch.  Oh well, my skills are progressing...

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I won something really nice recently!  I love winning!  Who doesn't, right???

I won Kelly's give-a-way - Mimi G's Mermaid Fishtail Maxi Skirt Tutorial!

Thanks Kelly and Thanks Mimi G!

PANTS FITTING ISSUES...(detailed post)

...I can't believe that I didn't make a single pair of pants during the fall/winter season.  If you'll remember, it was back in September when I became completely involved with my Carnival of Skirts - that later turned into a sew-a-long -  and I didn't stop until mid-January when I began completely involved with making over my fabulous pea coat.  Boy didn't I enjoy wearing all those skirts ALL WINTER LONG!  Now I find myself in desperate need of new pants.

Last weekend I tried a new pants pattern - didn't work, caused disgust, trashed them immediately - don't even want to talk about that pattern.   So now I'm coming to terms with my old TNT pant pattern.  Yes, it's an OLD pattern, but I've been able to come up with some pretty nice looking and fitting pants from this pattern.  I wore a pair made from it a few weeks ago and a sewing friend asked if I made them.  She said that had she not known that I make the majority of my clothes, she would have thought they were RTW.  I trust her judgment not only because I was flattered, but it did serve to help with my confidence level.

When I make this pattern I turn the front tucks into darts for a more modern appeal.

Every pair made from this pattern have not been a total success, but the majority have.  Yet, I call it a TNT.   BUT if I still have to work out kinks, wrinkles, or other fitting issues IS IT TRULY A TNT PATTERN???  So I went back to the drawing board with the same old pattern - determined that when I need a new pair of pants, I'll be able to pick this thing up and simply whip up a pair - voila, yeah just like that!

So I:

•  re-traced the original pattern
• cut a new muslin without any preconceived alterations- starting from scratch
• extra tedious work - yes!  But I plan on it being well worth it  

  What does it matter that my pants are made alike?  I contend, especially when time is of the essence, that correct fit, good construction, and quality fabric is really all that matters with this particular garment. 

Here's a picture of my major pants fitting issue and what I'm doing to eliminate it:

Pockets are sagging a little, but I can fix that by stabilizing that area during pocket construction.

It's odd, but this pattern fits me perfectly in the back.  But as you can see from the front, I'm plagued with diagonal wrinkles that extend from the crouch to the side seam.  Here you can see that I've  following Peggy Sagers advice:

• working with a muslin I've pinched out the wrinkles, pinned up the excess (right side) in a diagonal dart, and then stitched the dart in (left side). 
• Peggy (see, now I'm acting like I really know her personally) suggests disassembling the muslin and using it as the actual pattern rather than chancing error when transferring the alteration it to the original pattern piece.

Next I'll:

• mark all basted seam allowances that I've altered to make a better fit, 
• then remove all the basting stitches, completely dissembling the muslin, and
• use the muslin pieces as my pattern. 

I won't make a second muslin because I think my diagonal wrinkle problem will be solved.  I have three pairs of pants planned as my next sewing projects, one pair being (believe it or not) floral. 

Maybe by mid week I'll have a new pair of wrinkle free pants...

Un montón de pantalones...

....Pants fit so well into my work wardrobe - they just work for me.  As many pairs as I've made in the pass, I still find myself wanting needing more.  How many pairs of pants does one need??? What's a good number?  Since I do like variety in the way I dress, it behooves me to continue my quest for the ever elusive proper fit.

Of course you've seen me write about my famed TNT pants pattern.  I've worked with it a lot, but still, each and every time I use it - they still need lots of tweaking to fit and for me to be happy.

I've avoided jeans for a long time due to my fear inhibition to dealing with the back yoke part of them.  I need new jeans, and since I've had about 5 yards of stretch denim stashed for a couple of years decided "why not just make denim trousers?".  So that's exactly what I did.  I finished them last weekend but didn't have time to post.  Took them for a test drive yesterday, and although comfortable - they were just too big in the hip area.  Egad, I made Mom jeans.

An easy fix -  just removed 3/4" of ease from side seam in the hip area.  So this morning I hopped up and made the alteration.  Now I pleased.

I am still dealing with getting over the fear of making REAL JEANS.  I think REAL JEANS might be my next project, just need to decide which pattern to use.  I know I have several McCall's and one or two Vogue jean patterns on hand.  Mmmmm we'll see.

All in all I think I do pretty well with my pant's fitting - but it does involve quite a bit of work.  

I also finished another pair of pants from the same pattern last weekend.  They are from a light weight black pin stripped suiting fabric that I got from WalMart a few years ago.

 My sewing plans for fall will include dresses and skirts and tops and a few jackets; but I'm sure there will be even more pants too.

How about you; how many pairs of pants round out your wardrobe???.....

NEW PROJECT SUNDAY...

...I really only have few sewing rules that I try to abide by.  The most important of those being:

•  DO NOT START A NEW PROJECT UNTIL THE LAST   ONE IS FINISHED. 

 That rule is designed to keep UFO's from flying around in my sewing room.  To date there's only one of those things flying around in here  - got to do something about that thing.  It was started way back in February, I'm ashamed to say.  The pattern Vogue 1250 - you know the most made dress in blog world or so it seems to me.  It just wasn't for me, maybe it was the fabric I chose,  I don't know.  I've tried to hide it, but every now and then it pops back up. 

Vogue 1250

I think it's the print - I can take it in small doses but not as a whole dress.  I could just cut it off for a top and just be done with it.  Then it'll become a thwarted UFO - how about that? 

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Do you feel a sense of relief when a sewing project is finished???  I certainly do - or maybe it's a feeling of release - meaning I'm released from the Old, so on with the New.  Thereby a finished project is the signal of a new beginning.

This week I finally got a pair of light weight linen pants completed - been trying to get to them all summer.  Used my old TNT pattern again rather than a new one, but for pants it works great - it fits, and that's a really important issue.  They were made from a light weight linen blend, nothing really special, but they were made to go with the chiffon top that I finished last week.

Butterick 5496

 
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I keep trying to get back to my "NEW PROJECT SUNDAY" regimen. If I can decide on a pattern and fabric, and prep and cut  on Sunday - then my 20 to 30 minutes of week day sewing can pay off in the form of a finished project at least by Saturday.   Yield:  52 garments per year.  I love simple math!


Looking forward to lots of brand new beginnings...

I DIDN'T KNOW THAT...

...Am I just old school - or is everyone who makes pants as serious about creases as I am???

I love a razor sharp crease, especially in a pair of pants that I make for myself.   Yet I can't figure out why it's easier to set the crease some of the time than it is others.  I would think that it might have some to do with the grain line that the pants were cut on, but I think I'm pretty good at getting my pattern pieces laid out straight.

Well, while busy making a new pair of my TNT pants I happened upon some instructions on how to set the crease of during construction.  Now, you may know about this already, but I didn't know that!  I've told you before that what I "don't know" could fill a small reservoir; but I thank God for an insatiable hunger for knowledge.  He just keeps on making it available to me.

After darts are sewn in and pressed fold each front pant leg, and each back pant leg individually; steam press from hem to crouch curve.

  I used my handy dandy pounder to set the crease while the fabric was still warm, and allowed each pant leg to sit still until it was cool.  I'll be using this technique for all my pants from now on.

A portrait of the pressing tools I use to get a professional finish.  My EXTRA large padded sleeve board, one of my hams, and a great pounder.

Here I'm using the sleeve board and ham to press open my side seam, and set the hip curve into the pants.

I called this picture "from sea to shiny sea" because I've use the board to press the entire inseam from one leg to the end of the other.  I find that amazing.

I'm in love with these pants and they aren't even finished yet - I this color somewhere and they called it Copenhagen.  Doesn't that sound like a marvelous fall color?  Today I rushed home from work to get to Copenhagen (lol).  They fit in so well with my three piece capsule (blogged about here).  I can see the 3 pieces expanding and expanding; I've also started work on my second 3 piece capsule of a different color palette.

Sewing for yourself is so wonderful, there is always room for another adventure...

LESSON LEARNED...

When I attempted my last pair of custom made pants, I altered my dat gumn TNT pattern; you know the one:

•  just slightly younger than Methuselah Simplicity 8707 printed in 1978
• the one I found at the antique shop
• the one that cost me only $.49
• the one I've used successfully for over a year now
• the one I was working on when Gwen told me how to eliminate wrinkling across the front

you know, trying to make a good thing just a wee bit better.  Well, the results were terrible!  I never posted them because I experienced a sick feeling prior to snatching out my zipper and depositing them in the trash out by the side of the road.



I know that there are hundreds thousands of pants patterns out there - shucks, half of them are located in my pattern cabinet(s).   I know that if I work at it I can make another pattern fit me just as well - but I don't really have the time to do that right now (that's my story, and I'm sticking to it).

The only positive part of this story is - I did have sense enough to trace the pattern

so the original one is still intact (however a little tattered).  So I'm still in business and tonight I'm in the process of reinforcing the original with iron on interfacing to help it last a little longer.  I'll trace it just as it is when I get some extra Saturday time.

Moral of this story:   leave well enough alone Faye!  In the words of Anthony from Project Runway Season 8, "Da_m, lesson learned".

Have you learned any valuable sewing lessons lately???