ANNOUNCEMENT...

...LETS MAKE A FEW ESSENTIAL TOPS TO MAKE OUR OUTFITS POP!

To borrow Phadra's words, "Everybody knows" how I feel about TOPS.  They are:

• such an easy way to add some excitement and color to existing wardrobe pieces
• easy to make (most times)
• a great way to wake up sleepy sewing motivation

So since SPRING officially arrives this week, what a great time to announce the

Yeah me!  I made my first real blog button!

 

I know you already have some styles in mind, and I do so hope you'll join me for this years top sew-a-long.  It's been so much fun in the past with a great number of tops being born into the world.

Here's the particulars if you think you can join up:

• The sew-a-long will start next Sunday and run for two weeks (March 24th through April 7th)
• Any style top will qualify (sewing pattern of your choice, self-draft or refashion)
• THERE ARE NO QUOTAS
• You can even participate if you don't have a blog, just email me your pictures and I will display.  

 What you need to do to sign up and participate:

• Leave a comment on this post indicating that you'd like to participate
• Include your blog url
• Post the 2013 Top Sew-A-Long button on your blog that links back to my blog if possible. 

• NOTE:  I will no longer be able to open  separate blogs for sew-a-longs due to Google picture storage limitations.   Instead I ask that you notify  me (by a comment here on my blog, or by email) when your finished top is posted, and I will add your pictures to the grande finale at the end of the sew-along. My email address is listed on the sidebar if needed. 

   So come one, come all!  Let's put some of those Pantone Spring colors in our closets...

FOLLOWERS ARE SO IMPORTANT TO ME...

I'd sorely miss you if you didn't follow!  Here's a link to take you there.

IF GOOGLE READER IS SHUT DOWN...

...does that mean that my blog's dashboard will also be shut down???

It took a long time for me to understand "What an RSS Feed was".  To be truthful, there is still a lot  I don't understand about it.  When I  discovered  my blogs "DASHBOARD", it was instant love.  Being an avid blog reader - the dashboard is a huge time saver.  It let's me know which of my favorite bloggers have posted - so if it doesn't show up on my dashboard, I don't have to check in on them = time saved.

The question I need to ask is "if Google Reader is shut down on July 1st" will I still have use of my blog's DASHBOARD????

Dashboard will only allow you to follow 300 blogs.  (I know - sounds like a lot, but all 300 bloggers don't post every day or even every week).  I'm just getting use to Bloglovin, does it limit the number of blogs you can follow too???

SERGER QUESTION...

...can anyone tell me why the right needle of my serger WILL NOT stay threaded??? 

• The thread is not breaking; and
• I've changed the needle.

Guess I need to pull out a manual - huh???

TWIX AND BETWEEN...

...after spending an entire month on my last project, guess you could say  I'm twix and between projects right now.  It's that awkward stage that visits every once and a while.  You know, wanna sew,  can't sew, don't really know what to sew - all of that.   But you know me - I'll force it.

I'm still excited about the Pantone Spring Colors though, and do plan to incorporate as many of them into my upcoming "SUMMER BREEZE" spring/summer wardrobe as possible.  I'm planning a few tank tops to pair with bright colored skinny leg trouser style pants.  So on Friday I went out looking for some tank  fabrics.  Wanted something silky feeling, not transparent, with adequate drape that won't stick to me when the temperature soar in just a couple of months. The only thing I was able to find locally that sort of fit the bill was peachskin.  Not exactly what I wanted, but it will do until I find a suitable alternative.

I found the Monaco blue and African violet, but was unable to find anything in emerald or nectarine.

I also picked up my favorite shade of green - that I call army, and it will become a tank top as well.

While lurking around  I found a nice inspiration tank on  Lula Louise's blog,  I loved the curved baseball tee hem detail that she added to Simplicity 2599.  It's a simple, easy breezy top - just what I want.  I love simple pieces that you can get lots of wear out of.

This weekend I made my seasonal trek out for some "snoop shopping".  WOW!, the Easter Bunny or somebody splashed paint all over Belks.  I got SO EXCITED!  If this department store is any indication - basically any and everything goes this spring.  Every color, every print, every style.  So if you're wondering what to do with crazy prints, patterns and colors that have somehow wandered into your stash - you can definitely use them this spring.

Had I been doing "Real Shopping", I probably would have spent $3,000 on this trek.  But of course I  was only "play shopping"  all the while telling myself - "I can make this", or "I have a pattern just like this".

Glad I don't have to pay $45 for an infinity scarf

 The trip was lots of fun though, and I did get lots of sewing inspiration ideas...

NEW LIBRARY ADDITION...

...there are many books on my "Sewing Reference Wish List".  Some of them I just can't afford to get right now.  But my new library addition was very affordable especially since I saved my Amazon Gift Card birthday present just for this purchase.  I'd known for months that the new Claire Shaeffer Tailoring Techniques book was slated for release in mid February and felt that since I have a real interest in tailoring it was a must have.

I like the way the book is set up.  Like all of Shaeffer's books it is an easy read - meaning I really understand what it's saying.  The techniques are not complicated, and I can use them right off the bat to enhance the skills that I already have, as well as add new ammunition to my repertoire. There is just something about a tailored jacket or coat - it just wears better, lasts longer, and ends up being a piece that you really love.  (Maybe because of all the woman hours you put into it - huh Claire.)

Information is easy to find in this book so I won't have to have a hundred post it notes sticking out of it.  It's chapters are specific rather than having the information spread all over the place.  The chapters are:

• Tailoring Techniques for Buttonholes
• Tailoring Techniques for Patch Pockets
• Tailoring Techniques for Interfaced Hems
• Tailoring Techniques for Darts and Sleeves
• Tailoring Techniques for Trousers
• Characteristics of Couture Construction

Bam, that's it, plain and simple.  It also comes with a companion DVD which I haven't had time to review but will be getting to soon. I know I'll be pulling it from the shelf quite regularly which is the sign of a GOOD reference book. Now I really need to get her Fabric book which I've been too cheap to buy.  Maybe I can find a good used one on Ebay or Amazon.  Claire Shaeffer is world renown couturier, but I think I'm attracted to her work because I read some where that she was born and raised in Albany, Georgia.  Got to support your home girls.  Claire, you can mail my check to Warner Robins, Georgia in payment of this great book review...

I just love "THE REPORT"...

...yesterday I took a minute out to relax and finally got around to reading Pantone's full Spring 2013 Report.  Don't you just love it!   If you haven read it yet you can link in here for a peek.  I have ventured out of my basic black/brown wardrobe shell by adding bits of color here and there, but for spring this year I want to make sure I have color POP, POP, POPPING up all over my closet.
Here's a picture of all the new colors with Emerald Green as the top pick:

 I like how these designers  answered the question:  WHY IS FASHION IMPORTANT???

Tracy Reese

Fashion is a reflection of one’s self. When you are

wearing something that makes you feel comfortable

and confident, you can take on the world!

 

NAHM by Alexandria Hilfiger and Nary Manivong

Fashion is an outward reflection of

yourself to the world — it empowers you.

 

Peter Som

Fashion matters because it’s a form of self-expression

that provides a moment in the day for one to dream.

A little time to dream is OK — the world has

enough challenges to keep us pretty busy.

 

I  want to have some real fun with this whole color thing this season.  Designers all had ideas on how to incorporate the spring colors into our wardrobes and suggested "must have items".  My favorites were:

 

Custo Barcelona -  Colorful and print tees (I'm thinking tanks)

Cynthia Steffe by Suwha Hong - Ladylike, embellished, ponte sheath in cool mint

Tommy Hilfiger - Red and Blue nautical print - an A-line silk dress the perfect spring wardrobe staple

Tracy Reese - The key word is "easy" - easy pieces that fall away from the body with a totally relaxed feeling to incorporate the mood of the season

Wes Gordon - a wild pair of novelty pants that can be dressed up or down

I'm planning on starting with colorful and print tanks to mix and match with existing pieces as well as those yet to come.  I'll be looking for "easy"  colorful fabrics to make easy pieces.... ANY SUGGESTIONS???

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All of this talk about Spring and Color and I do declare, yesterday had to have been the coldest day of our winter season.  Shoot, maybe I need to make another coat....

PLEASE EXCUSE MY LANGUAGE...

...but I can't help but ask?????

WHERE THE HELL IS MICHAEL KORS????

If anybody know, I'd really like to know.

I so miss his KORSISMS! 

BREAKING NEWS UPDATE!!!FINISHED FEARLESS FEBRUARY & CAMERA WOES...

BREAKING NEWS UPDATE:  After a heartfelt speech (no accusations), just a plea for help to me FIND my camera  - it was returned to me at the end of my second class on Friday.  Love is restored, and this just teaches me to be more careful in the future!!!

...Well, I finished my Fearless February project on Sunday evening.  Although I so wanted to post pictures of it then, I waited until I wore it for the first time today.  Now I wish I had taken pictures on the dressform - maybe I'd still have my little baby point and shoot camera!   Yes, you see, my little Cannon Powershot all of a sudden GREW SOME LEGS and took a hike today.  I'm about as mad as that lion in the picture looks right now - but must move on.  So I'll be posting these cell phone shots of my finished project.

My little infinity scarf from 2011 and the taupe mock neck sweater paired up nicely with my jacket.  Thanks for the idea Cecil!

I'm trying hard to crack a smile although I'm steaming mad about my camera.

A student inspired pose

Now for my little summary of the project:

• I keep saying - "IT TOOK ME A WHOLE MONTH TO FINISH THIS JACKET!".  I started on January 19th (felt I needed a head start), and finished on February 16th.  But the truth of the matter is, I rarely worked on it at all during the week, but rather spent entire weekends with this step by step tailoring endeavor.
• I LOVE THE JACKET!, and wish that I had made it a long time ago.  Thanks to the Fearless February Challenge I finally decided to whip it right up (yeah right).
• It was a real labor of love.  You know me, I do not like projects that take over a week to complete.
• I think it fits WONDERFULLY!  It is so comfortable too -  not too snug nor is it pulling anywhere.  I had good driving range while wearing it (something I'm always concerned with).  Who wants to drive in a straight jacket???
• I LOVE THE COLOR, and am glad I chose it rather than the rust, black or camel alternatives that I toyed with.
• I searched for buttons like a mad woman, but could not find any that I liked that were the correct size locally.  I finally (at the last minute) had to break down and order the ones that Erica and Lori used on their jackets from Mood.  But I'll tell you what, if I EVER for some reason decide to get rid of the jacket - I will be removing and storing the buttons in a very safe place.
• The sleeve construction (which was a scary area) went so very well - I am completely happy with them and will be hand basting all set in sleeves from now on.
• As for the collar/front facing/lining attachment method (the other scary area)- OMGoodness!, I've never liked it, and probably never will.  If you sew one minute stitch past that DOT (you know what I'm talking about), the collar is a mess to turn.
• (Scary area #3), the button holes were not that bad at all.  The fabric was so very thick that I chose a #16 denim needle that worked like a charm.  The button placement (getting them aligned properly) was another story however.  After removing and resewing three of them several times - I just let it go cause I needed to finish this thing up people!
• While finishing up I remember thinking "well this one pattern I can trash cause I won't be making it again".  But on second thought, I've been toying with the idea of making it again but going strictly by the pattern instructions rather than incorporating any tailoring techniques just to see how long it would take to construct.  Alas, this is one of those MAYBE ONE DAY thoughts.

I think that's about all for my summary.  Now it's time to round up all the pattern pieces, get them safely tucked back into their envelope and move on to some of the simpler things of life - like some instant gratification sewing!

Now just a few shout outs and I'll be done.  Thanks to:

• Victoria for sponsoring a challenge that took me out of my comfort zone.  (Though I'm about ready to get back to it for a while)
• Erica and Lori for making jackets that inspired me to make mine
• Ebony for the fabric
• My sister Pat and niece Brenda who helped me with initial fitting efforts
• Rochelle and Cecil who helped me tween with email pictures
• Everyone who comment and cheered me on, especially my Mama...

Sounds a bit like an Academy Awards acceptance speech!

WIP, OMG...

... NOTE TO READERS:  Heavy Post.  If you don't want to read all of this I understand! Just look at the pictures - it's quite a metamorphosis! 

...I started my Fearless February project on January 19th because I knew I needed a head start.  But really, what does it matter - After all I'm not in a speed race.  But I have to continuously remind myself to CHILL and just ENJOY the process of what this project is all about:

•  shaking up my regular sewing routine by stepping out of my comfort zone
•  practicing and thus improving my tailoring techniques

I actually do not get in as much sewing time during the week as I would like to.  Lets face it I'm pooped at the end of the day.  Sewing a little on Friday evening and all day on Saturdays has been progressive though.  Had I made this jacket straight by the pattern instructions it would have been finished by now.   But it wouldn't be as special as it's going to be after plugging numerous tailoring techniques into it.

There have been other eyes (people) involved in this process.  My sister Pat and my niece Brenda came for a visit at the beginning of the muslin fitting stage.  They helped me critique my fit as much as they could but most importantly took pictures of the back of the muslin while I was wearing it.  I emailed the picture to Smoking Needles, who suggested that the sleeves needed to be raised because they extended far too much over my natural shoulder; and that it was too big in the chest area.  And after studying this picture I also knew that I also needed to make a sway back alteration.

Glad I already knew how to make the sway back adjustment.  I also made an adjustment for the pulling at the top of that center back seam.

Eight pairs of eyes lead to a much better fitting muslin,  but it was at this point that I was almost ready to throw in the towel because I really wasn't sure how to go about raising the sleeves or taking the excess fullness out of the chest area.  But instead I took a deep breath and decided to press on.  After all, it's not a Challenge unless it's a Challenge, RIGHT??? 

Much too over extended in the shoulder area

I'll admit, not a pretty sight!

Ahhhh, much better!, but also found that the sleeves were much too big overall

My corrections made for a much better fit. You can see from the picture that even on the dressform it was too large in the lower armhole area.  I could have taken the excess out of the side seams, but nooooo, I had already jumped the gun and completely installed all 3 pocket flaps (lining, topstitching and superb pressing).  There was no way I was taking them off because as far as I was concerned they were PERFECT!  Taking up the side seam would have thrown my pocket flap alignment off.  So instead I decided to make the adjustment in the back princess seams, which I think worked out very well.

I insert the majority of my sleeves flat before the side seams are sewn.  I JUST LOVE THAT METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION!  But of course this jacket has a two piece sleeve so there was no way around setting it in.  If anyone out there knows a way to sew a two piece sleeve in flat, please let me know!
The sleeves were the #1 area that caused me fear - I'm a-scared (new made up word) of sleeve cap puckering.  I received advise from two different sources and help from a video tutorial.  Ebony said that although pattern instructions tell you to ease the sleeve cap between the notches, instead start your easing far beyond the notches.  This was good advice, except it was impossible to pull up the ease stitches in this thick fabric!  I used three rows of ease stitches and it wouldn't budge.  It was now time to pull another weapon from the arsenal - the bias strip sleeve cap easing method.  I'd used it before a long time ago and used this You Tube Video as a refresher.  It worked like a charm!

With the sleeve cap eased, I still needed to get the sleeves inserted flawlessly.  It was then that I heard Rochelle's voice in my head from a previous conversation say, "have you ever thought about hand basting the sleeve in first?".  Let me tell you, that really did the trick.

1" Bias strip taken from the inside of an old thrifted necktie

Not a pucker - IT'S FLAWLESS!!!

I think it's beautiful - I DETEST PUCKERING unless of course it's a pattern design.

Gratuitous picture of the back of the jacket. 

 I am extremely pleased with my project at this point, but still not completely out of  woods.  The pattern calls for 1/2" shoulder pads, but I'm not sure that will be enough.  I'm toying with making headers for the sleeves.

When I get to this point of a big project I make a list of what's left to do.   I guess it helps me feel like I'm moving and making some progress.

It's been rough sewing this thick wool fabric.  I had to pull out the big guns to get this done.

I purchased this machine about four years ago at Hancock's used machine sale for $35.00; all it needed was a needle thumb screw.  I use it for "hard" to sew fabrics and boots so it rarely sees the light of day.  But I'm discovering that I really like it.  No bells or whistles on this machine at all but it purrs like a kitten.

In the meantime, I was one of Brenda's pattern give-a-way winners.  Thank you again Brenda!

To end this short novel of a post I must show a couple of pictures of my students.  We participated in the Veteran's High School Prom Fashion Show for the second year in row and they did marvelously.

My 2013 Dream Team

...

I'd love to tackle two big projects during Fearless - February (F-F) that have been on my sewing back burner for a very long time.  But since I sew much faster in my mind than I do in reality, I think I'd better concentrate on just one of them for starters.  No need in boggling my mind anymore than necessary.- right?

My (F-F) project is - oop Vogue 2873

a pattern that I've had for a long, long time.  I've often wanted to make it, but was fearful that I'd be able to pull it off.  Why fearful? - I really don't know - just fearful.   But when I saw the jacket made by Erica and then by Lori, I was ready to kick fear to the curb and go with what my Grandmother taught me - that being "NOTHING BEATS A TRY".

Last week I chronicled some of my progress, but the project actually started the week before with the preparation of the fabric.  Lori mentioned that she had washed her wool blend fabric by accident; I washed mine on purpose.  I'd had the fabric four or more years - gifted by my fabulous friend Ebony; but it felt stiff as though it contained some sort of sizing so I decided to wash it.  I pre-measured and found that I had 9 inches to play with.  After laundering in warm water (yes I know it was risky), and drying on medium I was left with a much softer piece of fabric and only 2 inches to spare.  Thank goodness I still had enough for my pattern pieces even after lengthening the body of the jacket 2".

Friday evening was spent removing a great deal of the fusible tricot interfacing that I felt made the jacket too stiff.  On Saturday I rolled out of bed and rolled into the sewing room where I spent the ENTIRE day working.  Got the lapel and collar taped and padded using that wonderful serpentine stitch that Erica mentioned.  WHAT A TIME SAVER!!! 

Shaped the lapel

and the collar

Taped the front edge along the seamline

Got the pocket flaps made and stitched on

and finally got it to resemble a jacket.  Funny thing though, I got the muslin to fit just fine, but found the jacket to be a tad too large - go figure!  Especially since I'd already jumped the gun by finishing  and stitching the pocket flaps on - which by the way I'm NOT going to remove.  I'll just make a fit adjustment in the back princess seams.

Now comes the scary part - attaching the collar and inserting the sleeves - uncharted territory.  I'm taking a deep breath and I'll use the following quote and a prayer to see me through...

Lastly, I'm coupling the Fearless-February sew-a-long with SewMuchTalent's Stash Smashing month long challenge since I'm sewing from my stash...