...how
would you like to be directly involved in the decision making process of a real
life fashion designer? Well, you can! Each month designer Dawn
Pengelly, author of the blog Duelling Designs, offers us the opportunity to
assist her in choosing which of two authentic apparel creations she will
customize. An original concept if ever I've heard; she designs - we choose!
What a genius idea and blog theme! It's
all done monthly when we cast our votes via one of her social media
platforms. I found this idea very exciting, and that is why I've been
participating every month since first discovering Duelling Designs. I'd
like you to have the chance to take part in Dawn's decision making process as
well, but first, let's take a moment to get to know her a little better.
Can you tell us about your learning process? How did you learn to sew, and how long have
you been doing it?
DAWN: I did not start sewing garments for myself until high school.
I learned how to make a mini skirt with an elastic waist in my home economics
class and that was it for me I was in love. We did not have money for all the
latest clothing styles so I would buy things from the opportunity shop and
alter the clothes to fit me.
Later
I made skirts and sold them at a couple of local shops. I traced my favourite
a-line skirt to make the pattern and screen printed line drawings on the front
of the skirt. I lacked a lot of the technical skills needed to make a great
garment though. My mother put the zippers in each skirt for me because I had no
idea how to do it myself.
I
went to university to be a school teacher because I thought it was a
responsible stable job in which I could be a little bit creative. After working
as a teacher for several years I left and started working with graphics hoping
to work in a more creative field. We had a huge layoff at work and part of the severance
package was money for education. I decided to not play it safe and go back to
school for something I always wanted to: Fashion Design. I never thought
getting laid off work would be a blessing but it was. I learned so much over
those four years and had the time of my life. I discovered that even more than
designing and sewing that I loved patternmaking. I think it amazing that all of
my experiences and jobs have given me the tools I needed to work on my blog. I
could not have planned it better if I had tried.
Where
did you train, and can you tell us some of the most important things you gained
from it? (Classes, etc.)
DAWN: I am a bit of an education junkie. I have
two university degrees (education and arts), a diploma and graduate diploma
(Fashion Design) and a college diploma in Graphic Design. I love to learn and
am always listening to podcasts, watching blabs, you tube videos and
Periscopes, and reading blogs. As I get busier it gets harder to keep up with
my digital learning.
I
first studied pattern and sewing at New Zealand Fashion Tech. When I was laid
off work we moved from Kalamazoo, Michigan back to Wellington, New Zealand. My
husband is from New Zealand and I love it and the other two countries I have
lived in. At NZFT we learned the basics, how to sew, how to draft patterns, how
to manipulate patterns, and how to grade patterns. I feel fortunate that my
first year of schooling was such a hands-on class that focused on the
fundamentals. Next I studied at Massey University for three years. This was an
exciting place to continue my education. We learned more about fibers, fabrics
(testing, caring for, labeling, identification), manipulating fabrics, design,
history of design, patternmaking digitally, knitting, trend forecasting,
draping, and much, much more. In our Fashion Industry class and during the
process of producing two collections for the runway I learned more about what
it took to produce a collection as well. We touched on many other things like
millinery, bra making, working with leather, zero waste, and machine knitting.
I would love to study these further as well as continuing to develop my construction,
patternmaking and grading skills. I am thrilled that my blog allows me to
continue my education.
The
most important things I learned in school were to be precise, the realities of
the fashion industry, to take risks and try new things, and that when you work
hard you can accomplish things you cannot even imagine.
Duelling Designs, it’s all so relevant! Of course we’d like to know just how you came
up with this unique concept, and how it evolved into your blog.
DAWN: I worked in the fashion industry after I
graduated as the assistant
to the designers at Rembrandt Suits in NZ. I
had to leave as we needed to move back to Canada for family reasons. In my area there were really no paid
opportunities to work in the fashion industry that did not solely entail simple
repetitive tasks. I did not want to sew the same style of trousers for the rest
of my life. I realized late in life that I need to be creative and decided to
investigate starting a blog to help me do just this.
On a
trip to New York City I found the garment district, and fell in love. I had no
idea there were stores with nothing but buttons. I spent a week in NY and came
home with fabulous memories, a lot of trims and an idea. Driving back from NY I
sat wondering what I was going to use my new little treasures I bought in the
fashion district. I did not want them to be added to my fabric stash because I
was waiting for the perfect project for them as I had done in the past. That is
where the idea of the blog was formed. Here was a way to be creative and push
myself to use some of the things I had been hoarding in my sewing room. It has
completely changed my life in that I no longer feel I am living in black and
white but in colour. I can sew, patternmaking, learn new technology, do graphic
designs, sew and further my education.
How
many Duelling Designs have you created thus far? What has been most challenging of all your
Duelling Designs?, and why?
DAWN: I am on my
seventh challenge. The holiday party dress has been the hardest challenge so
far. I used pattern manipulation directions from a book instead of starting the
patternmaking process from scratch and things did not work as I had hoped on
the bodice. I had to scrap the pattern and start over. It was rough but it is part of
the process. I cannot lie I wish I could have asked one of my university
teachers or Alethia Hudson for help. I used to think that I had to look like I
had it all figured out on Periscope but now I realize that I can ask for help
and advice from the wonderful Pericrafter community. I am after all not an
expert, just someone who wants to continue to learn more about what I love.
DAWN: I have a pile of commercial patterns that my husband’s
aunt gave me and I have made a skirt and a dress pattern. But since I have been
to school I have not used a commercial pattern. It is not because I do not like
them but rather that I want to not lose the skills that I learned at school. I
love the patternmaking process and figuring out the order I need to follow to
have my sewing project work. It is like my fabric rubics cube.
In
the midst of recently losing my top local fabric resource, can you tell us
about the fabric resources that you have in Canada? Do you ever order fabric online - if so
where?
I
have been trying to exclusively use the fabric I already own in my challenges.
If I need lining or notions I go to Fabricland. I have yet to order fabric
on-line but I am open to it once I get my stash down.
To
date, what are some of the designs that you are most proud of?
DAWN: In university I made a draped dress that I am very proud
of. I also made a yellow woolen coat that I love because I learned so much from
creating this tailored garment and it looks stunning.
What
makes your sewing room/area unique? What
is your favorite thing about or in the area?
DAWN: My husband made the table I use to patternmaking and
cutting. I love it. I plan to do a post on how it was made (with his help) as
it is so handy. It is nice to have a room dedicated to sewing and crafting. I
love the bright coloured peg boards I use to hang my tools as well. Bright
colours make me happy. I think the bright colour is a way of marking my
territory in a male dominated household.
Can
you share tips, techniques or advise for those of use to aspire to become designers
(if only for our own personal use)?
DAWN: Don’t be afraid. It sounds odd, but I think I was too
afraid to try things on my own before school. If I have learned anything from
interviewing the fabulously talented people on That Sewing Blab it would be we
might all have different journeys but if you have a passion, desire to learn,
and are willing to work hard there is nothing you cannot achieve. So hit
record, sketch, or manipulate that pattern. You will find when you jump out of
your comfort zone you will learn more and grow more than you could imagine. And
your goals will be one step closer.
If you could design for one famous person (past or present)
who would you design for, what would you design and why?
DAWN: My last Fashion in Film post was about the
movie How to Marry a Millionaire. I would love to design a dress that looks
like it came from the wardrobe department from the movie. I loved the movie and
found myself drawn to Lauren Bacall. In my eyes she completely overshadowed
Marilyn Monroe with her brooding looks. Women’s curves used to be celebrated in
fashion not disguised.
Please
list social media platforms that you use.
Website
www.duellingdesigns.com
Facebook
DuellingDesigns
Twitter
@duellingdesigns
Pinterest
Duelling Designs
Blab
www.blab.im/duellingdesigns
Periscope
@duellingdesigns
Instagram
Duelling Designs
Snap
Chat DuellingDesigns
