July 10, 2011



I finally started working on one of the four (yes 4) linen jackets that I did have planned for summer sewing.  Each will end up a with matching pants - or so the plan goes. I wanted each  jacket to be almost effortless, but have the look of precise sewing skills handled with much care.  I ask, is this an oxymoron?

I choose Butterick 4138 for Jacket #1 - Easy 8 pattern pieces

  • After musling I found that I needed to increase the armscye because it was a little binding.  That involving adjusting the jacket front, back and front and back facings.  I also increased over all the width of the sleeve to achieve a slightly baggy feel.
  • Added back fisheye darts for just a little bit of contour and fit.
  • Added 2 1/2 inches to the sleeve length to facilitate a rolled cuff.
  • Added twill tape to the shoulder area, and a back stay in addition to the pattern's back facing to add stability, and increase longevity of the jacket.
  • The pattern is for an unlined jacket, but I will line this jacket for wearing ease.
Not too time consuming - So far, so good huh?   Not so much!  I constructed the PERFECT collar for my jacket, and achieved the PERFECT turn of cloth for it which left me beaming, proud, and a very happy sewista UNTIL - attaching it to the jacket, and trimming my seam then discovering that I sewed it in backwards!  THAT'S RIGHT my PERFECTLY rolled collar is - PERFECTLY rolled in the wrong direction!

Needless to say I spent the entire next day debating whether to rip it out and turn it around, or just leave it and hope no seamstress with discriminating eyes gets close enough to detect my error.  I think we all know the verdict - I WILL rip and sew again.  But first, I needed to let it sit a while... marinate, and then attack the job.  I guess I should ... NEVER GET TOO HAPPY UNTIL THE PROJECT IS COMPLETED!!!


  1. How sad! My advice would be to either:

    1) rip it out, flip it, and re sew (not fun, I know)


    2) slap some funky, coordinating trim along the collar edge to hide the seam and call it done!

    Good luck!

  2. Knowing that its backward will irritate you
    to no end. However, Rebecca has a good suggestion about using trim.

  3. Oh, no, that is so frustrating. I think the trim idea is a good one, good luck with whatever option you choose.

  4. Yep, walk away! Then you can come back with better perspective and more patience. I would probably rip it out because you know it will always bother you. It does look great, though!

  5. That TOTALLY SUCKS! I've been there. Ripping it out is the best solution. Not that it's a fun one.

  6. I feel your pain and frustration. I do think you can make a design opportunity out of this and using trim as Rebecca suggested.

  7. SH&% !!
    How disappointing, but I also like the idea of using this as a design opportunity. Now that I've said that, I think I would rip it off and do it over, since it would always bug me.....

  8. Your blog is one of my favorites...now I know one reason why! Like me, the art of construction drives your need to get the technique right and motivates you confess a (slight) mis-step, yet display the determination to attempt it again--until your task ends in accomplishing it perfectly.

    Thank you for sharing and showing the newer sewists how important it is to take pride in your work and not settle for anything but the best we can produce...otherwise, why bother, right?

    I wait excitedly to see how it turns out! I know you'll be proud!

  9. I agree that this could be seen as an interesting "design feature!" If you hate it, I also agree that leaving it for a while might be better than attacking it while you are still frustrated. It's a pretty colour of blue anyway!

  10. I hate when I do stuff like that! Take a break, and ofcourse rip it out. You know you have to, but it's so much easier after you've had a minute away from the project.

    Can't wait to see the final jackets. I'm sure they will look great.

  11. Well you will be able to celebrate at the end of the project...but I feel your pain about ripping it out!

  12. I'm going to have to agree with everyone here...you have to bite the bullet and rip it out!! You'll feel much better after you correct it!

  13. I have done that exact same thing. It KILLED me but I ripped it out and put it in the right way. UGH!!! I so feel your pain.

  14. I agree with what's been said. We are perfectionists when it comes to our sewing. Can't wait to see your completed project.

  15. And this is why my second version of the shirtdress and my Colette Patterns skirt both remain unfinished. I perfectly rolled my collar the wrong way, too. Dang, Faye, stop copying me, okay? LOL As for the skirt, I hand sewed eleven out of twelve buttons to only find the skirt hem horribly off. Of course, I only notice this when it was time to sew the twelfth button. Sigh.

    Stepping away is a good thing.


  16. Oh dear. I feel your pain! I think we've all been thereat one time or another!

  17. Ooooh, that hurts. I know the feeling well. Try not to take too mcuh time before ripping and resewing... that way it feels more like part of the process than a correction!



Paying Homage to Black Pattern Designers...

...for years February has been set aside as a special time to learn about and recognize accomplishments of African Americans and other peopl...