MY FIRST BUT DEFINITELY NOT MY LAST - SAMMY CAMI...

...have you seen the Indie Iconic Sammy Cami pattern floating around blogland?

Like me, you probably already have several camisole designs tucked in your pattern stash.  It's not hard to be drawn to the word FREE, now is it?  I have a container full of camisoles on a shelf in my closet.  I often look for a particular color to wear with my cardigans, but so many colors are missing.  I need a rainbow of colors in that container.

Whether I choose a big 4 or an Indie pattern, it's very rare that I can make a pattern straight out of the envelope.  I finally came to realize that these companies don't just sit around and make patterns to fit MY body per se.  There are going to be some fit issues, even with a simple cami.  Today I wanted to make a muslin but my first issue was choosing a fabric.  So I turned to my stash.  Do you remember seeing this JoAnn's fabric.

April Johnson (Project Runway Season 8 and PR All Stars Season 1) designed Jersey knit

The fabric has been in my stash for 2 or 3 winters, I love jersey knit, but never used it because I did not want to take the time to match the design.  Today I decided that April's fabric had sat long enough so I used it for a muslin.  Here's my first attempt

What I did this time:

• cut size 14 through the arms and chest area, tapering to size 16 in the side seams
• Center front and center back (both cut on the fold) decreased at center neckline 1/2 inch because I often have problems with  patterns being too large in that area
• used 10" strap measurement rather than 11 1/16" suggested by the pattern
• added 2" to the length of the pattern
• used foldover elastic for bindings and straps rather than self fabric

What I'll do next time:
.  cut size 12 through the arms and chest area, and taper to size 14 in the side seams
.  decrease front and back at center neckline one full inch
.  use 9" strap measurement
.  not lengthen the pattern at all

Honestly, I always been scared to try patterns with a continuous arm/strap binding. Never thought I'd be able to get that technique quite right.  It's not that hard after all.   I'd never used FOE, although I've had some in my stash for a long time, didn't know how to use it. Thanks to You Tube, now I know.

So all in all, my resulting cami is a little too large in the side seams, and a little droopy at center front and back.  But I've taken in the straps one full inch, and this cami will work just fine as a PJ top.  There will be other colorful Sammy Cami's in my container...

SENDING MY MOM SOME LOVE...

...  it's wonderful being your first born child!!!

and Happy Mother's Day to all my blogland friends...

A LONG DRY SEASON...

... It's Thursday evening again, and the long, dry, lack luster season of Project Runway withdrawal has begun.

Talk about branding!  The Project Runway trilogy has become such an integral part of my life and has    added lots of posh, style and embellishment to my Thursday night entertainment.  Yes folks, I am hooked.  Even though when asked, "do you learn anything about sewing by watching the show?".  My answer is always, emphatically "No", it's not about learning sewing technique; it's about the sewing DRAMA!  I unapologetically love each show/season.  And I miss it too.

This is the way Thursdays usually go for me;  I call my Mom (or she calls me) to see if each one is planning on watching.  Why of course we are, so why do we even ask!  The main reason for the call is to see if we each think we are going to be able to stay awake for the duration of the show.  I have to admit that I've nodded out on multiple episodes, or even fallen completely asleep.  When that happens I watch via internet on Friday or Saturday.  My Mom on the other hand rarely makes it through (she's the go to bed with the chicken's type) so she tapes and watches on Friday mornings.  Then we have another phone conversation on Friday afternoon to recap, theorize, talk about who should have gone home, predict who's going home next week, and laugh about the craziness of the  night before.

I propose that the brand expand into one more venture ala Project Runway (something or another), to afford me year long television viewing entertainment.   This is what good old Google had to say about the matter:

Lifetime Announces 'Project Runway' Season 12 Premiere ...

xfinity.comcast.net/.../lifetime-announces-project-runway-season-12-pre...

Heidi Klum, Nina Garcia, Zac Posen, and Tim Gunn are back and ready to rule the “Runway.” Season 12 of “Project Runway” will premiere Thursday, July 18, at 9/8c, Lifetime announced Friday, with a host of very fashionable changes in store this season.

 I guess Michael Kors is never coming back...sigh.

 That's my late week life in a nut shell.
 If you are a Runway Addict like me, what are you watching through this long dry season???

HOW TO RAISE A COWL NECKLINE...

...When McCall's recently released their new fitted cowl neck top, and you know that I, Ms. Patternaholic had to have it in my collection.  Nice and easy, four pattern pieces, made for knits with 4 variations. What's not to like?   I can see it being a great wardrobe essential, and a way to add much need pops of color and or print for spring/summer.

This pattern even has a built-in swayback adjustment line.  I've never seen that in a pattern before.  Nice pattern, BUT nothing's ever 100% perfect. I can tell by the model depiction on the envelope that this pattern as probably going to be cut much too low for my taste.  Leaving me looking down at my bra ALL DAY LONG, wondering if everyone else is looking there too.    I HATE THAT!  Now, how in the world do I fix that problem???  Enter Google to the rescue.  I visited the new to me Sew Everything Blog that spelled out two methods of pattern adjustments for raising a much too low cowl neckline.  I used method two because there was much less math to contend with.  Thank you Samina.

I made a wearable muslin to give this alteration a try and decreased the cowl depth by 1 1/2 inches bringing it up to a comfortable wearing position. 

I ended up with a 1/2" horizontal wrinkle at center front that I will need to work out if I decide to make it again.   Mmmmm undecided at this time.  This pattern does run on the large size.  I made size 16 and had to take in the side seams considerably.  I also lengthened 2 inches, but ended up cutting that amount off before hemming.

SURPLICE: i.e.

having a diagonally overlapping neckline or closing.

I don't know exactly why I'm attracted to this design, but I am; it just doesn't seem to work out for me fit wise.   But....... every now and then I give it a try again.   Aggggg! when I learn?, or am I just a glutton for punishment?

Last year it was this pattern.  Not in love with the top I made but I do wear it because I love the fabric.

This week I decided to try a different version of another pattern I used last spring

Last year I made 2 of view F.  This time I opted for view C.  About this pattern, first of all I DID NOT understand the part of the instructions on how to construct the ruched side of the top.  Just made up my own way to get the top finished.  I also forgot that the racer arm shape is really severe.  I did use Myra's directions to raise the neckline 1 1/2" to keep the front from being far too low cut.  That worked out fine, but I'm still not 100% satisfied with the surplice design.  Guess it's just not for me.  I will wear this top as well, because again I'm in love with the colors and print of the fabric. 

What's being stitched in your sewing room this weekend???

CUTTING ISSUES...

...a couple of months ago while cutting fabric my dressmaker shears somehow just flew out of my hand.  Yep, landed about 2 feet from me on my lovely hardwood floor with a thud.  I don't know what got into them that day, but since then they won't cut hot butter.  They still look perfect - no chips, scratches or anything, but I guess I threw them off balance.   I do have 2 really good backup pairs, as well as 8 or 9 pairs of not so great ones that I don't mind using to cut paper.   But I just love cutting with my 7 year old Kai shears that never needed sharpening.  Is the word "shears" correct usage in sewing terms. 

My cutting tool of choice

 

 

 

 

I finally got around to ordering a new pair this afternoon.  They are just so comfortable to use, perfect fit, that is up until they decided to fly out of my hand and across the room.

So, my question to you - What are your favorite shears to use for sewing????

I AM SUCH A COMMERCIAL LOVER, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT'S ALL ABOUT FASHION...

A new way to snoop shop.  Now just how cute can you get...

FOR THOSE WHO MIGHT BE INTERESTED...

...I wanted to post Gwen’s entire email where she gave me advice on eliminating the diagonal front wrinkling that plagued my pants fitting.  To my dismay – I cannot find the email.  I must have deleted it!  I can’t believe it got deleted because I save everything.  No problem though, I can share the information from memory because I use it regularly.  I’ll also point you to some other wrinkle eliminating information that might also be helpful.

My diagonal wrinkling problems radiate from the front crouch area below the fly zipper up to side seams. 

•  In this picture you can see where I folded out and pinned the excess that causes the wrinkling (wish I had taken a picture before I folded and pinned).

• I pinned from the crouch area, starting just below the zipper, and tapered up to nothing at the side seam/slant pocket area. I started pinning below the zipper because I did not want to alter the zipper length; and tapered to nothing at the slant pocket/side seams for the same reason – I did not want to alter the length of the pocket opening.  

• In this picture the right side is still pinned, but on the left I’ve stitched the excess up into a long diagonal dart  

• I measured the amount pinned out in the muslin and transferred the same alteration to the front pattern piece.  This has made a tremendous difference in the fit of this pattern for me.

I think my wrinkles indicate that my pattern’s front crouch length is too long – just guessing here because as you know – I am no expert.

Gwen’s advice also convinced me to purchase Palmer & Pletsch’s book “Pants for Real People” that I had been reluctant to buy before that time.  If you have the book, I’d like to direct your attention to page 31 (bagginess in the back).  Although this section speaks about problems with the back pattern piece, it can also be applied to problems with bagginess in the front.   Page 54 (chalk-mark stitching lines) refers to chalk marking an adjustment made at the waistline; and (the waistband) is also helpful.

P.S.  Although tissue fitting is shown in the book – I NEVER pin fit – I’m a muslin girl (just my personal preference).  I’m afraid that I will tear and destroy the pattern; I always work with muslins instead.  Hope you find this helpful…

IT'S BEEN A LONG TIME SINCE I'VE TAKEN A PICTURE...

...why?, because I hate taking pictures.  But I realize that posting pictures wearing my hand crafted garments from time to time is necessary for good blog documentation.   After not making pants for an entire year, I decided it was time to add a few new pair to my wardrobe rotation.  When the pants idea first came up I was all ready to start working on a brand new (to me) pants pattern.  I pulled out several patterns, cut the paper pieces out, and then remembered why I took an entire month last spring tweaking my same old TNT pattern.  The number one reasons:

• limited number of pattern pieces (a two piece slant pocket is enough for me and gives me the look and feel I like).  Call me narrow, but the same goes for the waist band; a one piece waistband fits my body and needs quite well.
• Come on Faye, why re-invent the wheel?  What you wanted was a good fitting pant pattern, that you could whip up in a couple hours sewing time.  You've worked hard to get it, so just go with it.

Since my re-emergence a couple of weeks ago I've made three new pair and decided to test drive one of them today.

 

Not too tight, not too loose, comfortable all day long.  Minimal diagonal wrinkling across the front thanks to information received from one of my sewing mentors, Gwen.  I will never forget the wrinkle elimination tips she taught me by email.

The other 2 pair that I call radiant orchid and turquoise (I think)

I also love the ease of wearing skirts so I revisited McCall's 6654 to add two colorful knit #2 pencils  this weekend.   I think my sewing sessions produced some much needed splashes of color to my otherwise neutral way of dressing. 

Turquoise and Coral both of pontederoma

I'm not on one of my usual all out sewing marathons (yet), but I think I'm off to a great sewing season.  I really did enjoy being able to sew the past two weekends - it was like taking a breath of really fresh air...

I AM SEWING - RESULTS TO FOLLOW SOON, BUT IN THE MEANTIME...

...let's take time to rejoice because

And he said to them, "Do not be amazed; you are looking for Jesus the Nazarene, who has been crucified. He has risen; He is not here; behold, here is the place where they laid Him."

Mark 16:6

Have a beautiful Easter weekend sharing with family and loved ones where ever you are!

RE-EMERGENCE...

...needed to take some time to organize, gather my thoughts, and clean up a bit.  If it's alright with you, I'll just pretend that I've been here all along and I just pick up where I left off, o.k.  It's amazes me how junkie my sewing area can get even when you are not doing any sewing.  Case in point...

this mess.  How useful can an inspiration board like this be?

or this mess.  How in the world does this continually happen?  I declare this table is a clutter magnet!

Part of my organizing efforts produced this

a useful inspiration board ready for me to junk up again.  No, I take that back, I must speak positive words in my sewing room.

and a clean, ready to use cutting space.

Even with our sporadic weather (supposed to be 40 degrees in the morning), I've had plenty of time to think about spring sewing possibilities.  I do have a little plan (subject to change), and I have pulled 6 stashed fabrics (4 wovens and 2 knits) that are being pretreated tonight.  Maybe, just maybe, if the dryer hurries up, I can get at least one item cut tonight.  Here's 4 of the pieces

Jersey knit for a top, pontederoma knit for a pencil skirt, and two gaberdine pieces that will become slim cut pants.

There's brown and radiant orchid gaberdine pieces in the dryer now, both for pants.  I think I've blog watched from a distance long enough - it's time for me re-emerge...