SEWING ALONG

I made this short sleeved tee on Friday. I really needed a quick project after working on the jacket. This was only four pieces and I am satisfied enough with the fit enough that I wore it to work today. There is a correction that I will make the next time I use this pattern (a correction necessitated because of an alteration I made to the pattern - I over though the process again). I should have cut a straight 18, but because most tops are so low cut now a days, I thought I could eliminate that by cutting the pattern at a 24 at the neckline - WRONG - that made it sag right in the chest area. I will cut the next one at a straight 18. I lengthened the top at the hem 3", and also at the sleeve length about 2".

I had a G-R-E-A-T time this weekend sewing LISA.
We got together for a trip to Hancocks in my town and traced our first BWOF patterns which was one of my 2008 sewing goals. More information about that adventure still to come. Getting together with her is such a LEARNING EXPERIENCE. She also taught me how to use my tube turner - I was having a dickens of a time with that thing...

WEEKEND MUSING

I had the privledge of spending a wonderful evening with THE ARTIST LISA!, and her daughters at the art gallary on Friday evening. Here's a picture of her standing next to one of her paintings displayed at the gallary (glad I had my camera with me). It was a wonderful experience for me and an enjoyable evening. After the showing we went for coffee/sewing talk and our evening was priceless. I just love talking and sharing with her. She is such an inspiration!
I've also been working on one of my sewing related goals of beefing up my sewing room. I put up this shelfing unit yesterday (I NEED EVERYONE IN BLOGLAND praying with me that this thing stays up on the wall.) I am not a carpenter, but I finally got them up with much agony. So I was able to go FROM THIS:
TO THIS:

(Notice the cake tin on the bottom shelf; it belonged to my great-grand mother, Jessie Lee Thomas - I can't bear parting with her button tin so I gave it a place on the shelf.)

The cost of shelving units was complements of my sister Brenda. Thanks again Brenda!

Next I plan on putting up a colorful pegboard that will help me organize my space better by hanging up rulers, scissors and things that I need handy all the time.

I haven't started on my next sewing project yet cause all my time this weekend has been spent on the shelves. But I did make a fabric purchase this weekend - I bought a pink striped pin cord fabric for a pants suit. My next project will be something easy though like a knit tee shirt. Lisa and I have a "SEW-A-LONG" planned for next weekend - more about that later.

IT'S FINALLY FINISHED

The green jacket if finally finished! I think I'll put it in the cleaners because working with this light color did leave a few smudges. I'm proud of the finished product and I think that I will make this jacket again soon, but it will not involve as much as this one did. I think I'll leave the next one plain and simple. I plan on wearing this with navy pants and a white top; and with white pants also (as soon as I can get some made up. I'll make sure I take pictures when ever I wear it.

Be sure that my next project will be something very quick...

ME AND THE GREEN JACKET ARE STILL HERE...

I've been so involved with the actual construction of this jacket and the new techniques I had to learn as a result of wanting to take this pattern to another level, but I did remember to take pictures. I'm not that up on organizing my pictures yet, so finding what I want to post and then getting it posted in the right place is a challenge so bear with me here. Here is the jacket construction process. (p.s. I don't know why my post is underlining and I don't know how to turn it off).

I thought the fabric I used for this project (silky wool) was a little too light weight for what I had envisioned. Because I wanted the finished jacket to maintain a crispness with wear I decided that I wanted to try adding an underlining. From what I've read about underlinings, they are supposed to do just that and in addition keep the fashion fabric from wrinkling so badly. I did discover that this silky wool fabric that I had never heard of is a type of Iris Linen and knowing that linen will wrinkle, I used cotton batiste which was pre-washed and pressed before cutting it from the jacket pattern - I cut the front, back, back pleat and sleeve.

(sewing the underling to the fashion fabric, afterwards it is treated as one garment unit.)

(Pictures above show the underlining pieces/fashion fabric pieces sewn together as one unit for the back and front.)
I am completely happy with the drape of the garment after including the underlining.

Sleeves attached.
For a person who does not like the process of setting sleeves in, I can do it but I don't like to (way too many pins in that small circle for me). I am a real stickler for sleeves WITHOUT PUCKERS! If it is a two piece sleeve construction I will set the sleeve in (can't figure out how to do it any other way). I like the flat sleeve insertion method - it works better for me but I still get an occasional pucker. I put both these sleeves in with only ONE PUCKER and fought with myself to just leave it in - WHO WOULD NOTICE! But alas I figured that with all the extra work I was putting in here I had to go in and fix the pucker. So I present to you - THE PUCK ERLESS sleeves. I ask you, since this is the method I prefer, and since it works well for me, why do I feel like I'm cheating when I use it rather than the set in method?

After inserting the sleeves I noticed that the jacket sort of sunk in at the sleeve/shoulder area. I didn't want the shoulder pad look so I figured a sleeve header would do the trick. That involved more research to find out exactly what the purpose of a sleeve header was and how to make them. I found some really good information at DYI network.com written by Susan Khalje, and was able to follow her directions for making the headers with fashion fabric cut on bias and padded with some low loft batting that I just happened to have on hand.

(8" bias strips) (Bias Strips folded and pressed) (Batting added)

(Header sewn together, ends rounded. Placed over ham and steam pressed to shape)

After getting the headers made I couldn't understand from the Khalje instructions just how to put them in. I forget exactly, but I think I found the placement information at the SEWING DIVAS site. My before and after pictures of problem and solution did not come out very well, but the headers did solve my problem.

(BEFORE: Problem with sleeve sunken in) (AFTER: Sunkeness taken out)

The next thing I had to do was cut out the lining which the pattern did not call for but I LOVE LINED JACKETS! They go on and off so much easier. I cut the lining of the front (minus the front facing) being careful to leave enough for seam allowance to meet the facing) back, vent and sleeves and attached it to the jacket. (NOTE: had planned on putting pictures of the lining here but for some reason blogger is not allowing me to upload any more pictures today - is there a limit - cause I posted 13 pics on this update?)

After attaching the lining, I tacked it the shoulder, underarm, and the top of the back pleat.

I had originally added 3 inches to the bottom of the jacket, but decided to decrease that to 1 1/2 inch instead. ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW is :
1. Hem the bottom of the jacket
2. Hem the sleeves
3. Hem bottom and sleeve lining
4. Work button holes and sew on buttons. WILL POST FINISHED PRODUCT ASAP!

I feel like I truly stepped out of the box with this pattern which is a good thing. I pushed myself and learned learned three new techniques. I will make this jacket again probably sometime soon. However it will be by the pattern and without all the additions I made here. Learning to do Hong Kong seam finishes is one of my sewing goals this year so the next jacket will have utilize that technique.

HAPPY SEWING!

THANKS JACKIE!

Thanks to Jackie for nominating mine this award. I'll continue striving to live up to the award.
Of course I'd like to nominate three very talented bloggers:
LISA - My Sewing Buddy who is so sharing and knowledgeable. She's not afraid of anything, I think she's a daring artist!

SHEILA - Who is so talented. I love her knitting and her classic style of sewing.
and;
ANGELA - The Denim Queen - although denim is not all she sews so well; I love what this girl can do with the fabric.

Pictures of the jacket are forthcoming...I had to start a night class so that has slowed me down.

BETTER THAN THE LAST ONE!

Every seamstress/sewist, or whatever term we choose to call ourselves; want the project we are currently working on to be better than the last one. I am sure that none of us sit down at our machines with lack-a-daisy attitudes not caring about the construction process, without visions of producing a successful garment. Most of us have actually contemplated the entire assembly and construction process from start to finish in our mines before we even cut into the fashion fabric. Such is the case with the jacket I am currently making.

Several days ago I started considering the fact that the silky wool fabric that I'm working with is moderately light weight. It has the feel and drape of a linen fabric. I've never worked with it before, but fell in love with it when I saw Erica's freesia trench jacket in February.
It's like something in the back of my mind is saying "UNDERLINING" is needed for the look and drape that I'm looking for. So after reading as much as I can about the use and application of underlining, I have decided to do just that using cotton batiste which I'm pre-washing as I write. I am also going to thread trace the pattern as well thus extending the project even more with adding a full lining although the pattern doesn't call for one. Oh well; after all, I am continually looking forward to my next project to be even better than my last!

APPLE GREEN "LUCY" JACKET

I am making progress on my apple green "Lucy" Jacket. I'm very much in love with this style and glad to see that it has carried over into the spring/summer fashions in one form or another. I'm seeing long sleeved, 3/4" sleeved and cropped sleeved ones in all the stores and fashion catalogs; and plan on making several for the new season for myself.

My muslin is as finished as I can get it - I guess. I even put the collar and front facing on it because I wanted to make sure that I knew how to do it before cutting the fashion fabric. Here's a picture of the finished muslin; I plan on completing the jacket this weekend - maybe.

LOOK!

It's a bird!
No it's a plane!
No it TAILOR'S TACKS! Can't remember the last time I did these things. I can remember learning to do them back in eighth grade. I strongly disliked them then, and I'm not so crazy about them now. I often heavy handedly pulled them out accidentally, or was always afraid that I would. I decided to try them today BECAUSE I HAVE THE DICKENS OF A TIME WITH MY TRACING PAPER! When I first started sewing again I thought the problem was that my tracing paper was too old - so I bought new. I still have a problem with it showing up on most fabrics. I'm using Singer Dressmaking Tracing Paper and I also have some called Singer Platinum Collection that works no better.

I also use tailor's chalk and Crayola colored pencils. I've even resorted to a red magic marker at times. WHAT DO YOU GIRLS USE? Is there something out there that I haven't found out about yet?

My new M-O-U-S-E pad suggested by SHEILA she saved me some money!
I tried it out last night and didn't have to chase the thing one time.

I'm in LOVE with the point turner and clapper that I picked up at the Sewing Expo! Haven't tried the point turner part yet, but wish I had known about the clapper a long time ago. It works wonderfully. Look how sharp this dart pressed out. I also used it to help me press the 28 pleats out of the refashioned skirt.











I finished the Pendelton skirt. I think this was my first refashioning project. At least I can't remember ever doing anything like this. I think it turned out really good, and I'm proud of it. My Mom tells me it's still cold in New York, so maybe Brenda will be able to get some wear out of it this season. Here's the finished skirt on my bow hipped dress form. I can't seem to get this thing (dress form) set properly - the hips stick out!

MAKE IT WORK....

I mentioned in yesterday's post that there were two techniques that I wanted to try in making my Sister's skirt...but chickened out. They were the invisible zipper application and the Fitting Finesse Pivot and Slide technique for decreasing a skirt's size from the waist to the hip area. Well, since I do have another skirt to make for her, I am determined to master this pivot and slide technique. The author (Nancy Zieman) states that in her many years of sewing she has tried numerous fitting techniques, but since finding this one has stuck to it because it works. I need super simple fitting information. I don't want to do too much math - understand, but I want a great fit! Can I have one without the other? Here are some shots of the process, and I must say that the grading from the waist size to the decreased hip size looks a whole lot better than it looked when I decreased it on the original pattern.













What I'm faced with is a larger waist size with a smaller hip size. Here is how the pattern looked when I used it to grade the sizes. Next to it is a picture using the pivot and slide method. The transition from one size to another looks a lot smoother to me - what do you think?









I do plan on adding some of the other great fitting books that I've seen mentioned on so many of the sewing blogs like, the Real Fit books but haven't gotten around to that yet. If any one out there has any REAL SIMPLE methods of fitting, please let me in on them.
So my next project for this week is the refashioning that I've started - also for my Sister. I'M READY TO CUT!!!

NIFFTY SEWING NOTIONS & FINISHED PROJECT

I LOVE SEWING NOTIONS! I'm surprised that I don't have more of them, but here is one that I got a while ago. It's a hem gauge called Tailor-Ette (movable slider with chalk). I bought it the last time Hancock's had a 50% off all notions sale back in February. I used it today to mark the hem of my Sister's skirt that I'm working on. It works pretty good! The next notion/equipment that I buy will be one of those things that you place the sewing machine peddle on to keep it from sliding away from under my foot. I swear I get tired of chasing that thing. I've got a 40% off coupon for notions for the second week in April I think this would be considered a notion???














I also love hem tape, especially the lacy kind. I think it gives such a professionally finished look to a hem.
This muslin complete with facings, hem and zipper went on a round trip to upstate New York and is now back in Georgia. Boy snail mail seems to be getting faster. I mailed made it up and mailed it to my Sister on a Monday; she received it by Wednesday of last week - then she and my Mom pin fitted it and put it back in the mail on Friday of the same week and it arrived back to me by Monday of this week.









And here's Brenda's finished fully lined "LBS" (little black skirt) made from Butterick 4613.
I must admit that there were two techniques that I wanted to use in making this skirt - but chickened out. One was the invisible zipper - thought I need to practice on it more before installing in an actual garment. So on this one I opted for a centered zipper application. The second thing was a fitting technique I've reading about in Nancy Zieman's book Fitting Finese. It's called pivot and slide. I WILL USE THE PIVOT AND SLIDE METHOD (talking myself into being brave) on the skirt refashioning project my Sisters next skirt.

Now on to the next project...

The Recipe For faye 3 parts Prosperity
2 parts Warmth
1 part Savvy

Splash of Courage

Limit yourself to one serving. This cocktail is strong!