June 8, 2014

BUTTERICK 6065

...I liked Sheila's versions of Butterick 6065 as soon as I saw them.  When ever this happens I instantly wonder if the pattern is in my stash.  Regardless of the number of patterns I own, there is always one, or two, or three that I don't have.  This particular pattern was part of Butterick's newly released collection that I had been waiting to hit my local stores so I was able to pick it up yesterday.
Only two pattern pieces for this cute little top, so I knew I would be able to bring it to life during my Saturday night sew-in.  The fabric:  a jersey knit purchased at Hancock Fabrics last summer, only needed 7/8 yard (loved that).  Sizing:  Since I now use size 14 through the neck, arms and bust area  grading out to size 16 in the side seams, I'm able to achieve a much nicer fit at the neckline.  The most tedious part of construction process was using Steam-a-Seam to press up all the hems; neckline, armholes, and the bottom hems.  Time consuming yes, but I do love the results - crisp hems.  I also make a habit of stabilizing the shoulder seams of all my knit garments using 1/4" twill tape that I buy in black and white - I know it makes a difference.  (see question about process at the end of this post.)

I love jersey knit, and this print brings a variety of colors into play - there's black, white, turquoise and cobalt and can be worn with so many things I already have on hand.

STABILIZING QUESTION:  I've noticed very few patterns that mention stabilizing shoulder seams.  When it is mentioned, the instructions suggest that the stabilizer material be placed on the back seam allowance, then pressing the seam towards the back.  I actually prefer placing the material on the front seam allowance because I find that the seam then presses towards the back smoother.

Where do you place it???
Does it really matter???
What type of material do you use for stabilizing knit shoulder seams???


34 comments:

  1. I generally use clear elastic. On my last top I didn't use anything thinking it would be fine. It wasn't. Those shoulders have grown and grown! I need to go back and stabilize that area so it will stop.

    BTW, love your top--and this pattern! This is another one to add to my pattern acquisition list. Thanks for sharing.

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    1. Thank you . I might try stabilizing with clear elastic. Thank you for sharing.

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  2. I cut the stable edge of the fabric off and I use it to stabilize shoulders, waist and crotch curve. I apply it to the front shoulder.
    BTW- last week I bought the pattern. You made another great top.

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    1. Thank you Alethia and thank you for sharing your method.

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  3. never made knots. But All my knit tee shirts have clear elastics. I like this pattern . The blue on the model looks so good. Thanks for sharing.

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  4. I love this shirt and beautiful fabric. I agree with you, I put the stabilizer on the front, easier to press. Knit interfacing cut the direction with no stretch is what I use.

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    1. Thank you so much Lori. I'm really glad I asked the stabilizer question.

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  5. Pretty top and can see more in your future sewing. Honestly I do not stabilize the shoulder seams of my knits. I did a few times early on in my sewing and didn't like the end result. However, I serge the shoulder seams and straight stitch thereafter.

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    1. Thank you for being the inspiration for my new top!

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  6. I use this stabilizer tape (looks like tricot interfacing but it's not stretchy and doesn't have any fusing material on it) that's about 1/2 inch wide. (I get it at JoAnn's or Hancock's.) I sew it to the back seam allowance about 1/8 inch in from where I sew the seam. I press the seam allowances to the back. I hate clear elastic because of its feel. I love this top and have just ordered the pattern from BVM. Can't wait to sew it.

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    1. Thank you for sharing, hope you enjoy the pattern as much as I have.

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  7. I love the pattern and the fabric you chose.

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    1. Thank you. I want to make another one.

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  8. Cute top! I use clear elastic and like you, I sew it to the front SA and then press it to the back.

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  9. Nice top. I use Vilene tear away and then serge over it too before I tear away.

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  10. Lovely colours in this top ~ it will look very flattering on you. I tend to stabilise on the front piece as well ... J

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  11. It must be top time for you again Faye - this will be a lovely little top for summer.

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    1. I'm such a top lover Sarah that every season is top season for me.

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  12. I use tape to stabilise the shoulders seams. I always sewed it to the front until I read that it should go on the back. But as I don't like it that way I'm going to follow your lead and put it on the front again. Lovely colours in your top. They are among my favourites.

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    1. Thank you Kathy. I think it presses better when attached to the front.

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  13. You never have all the patterns you need. Patterns lead to our dreams, don't they? I like that print; I think it will look great on you this summer.

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    1. Thank you Marjie. I am in total agreement, patterns do lead to our dreams.

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  14. Great pattern and cute top. I see a big future for this one. Since shoulder backs are often longer than shoulder fronts I think stabilizing the front seam makes sense. I've never really thought much about this but I am pretty new to sewing knits.

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    1. I agree with you about the shoulder back being longer than the front, thats why I always sew with the back facing the feed dog - the dogs ease the longer back in for me. The main reason that I started ataching the stablizer to the front is because it makes pressing the seam toward the back easier. It just lies flater.

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  15. Cute top that you made. You and Sheila make it look so good. I have the pattern and will have to make one just because. I sometimes stabilize my knits at the shoulder seam as well, usually in the back.

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    1. I like that Necie - just because. I made mine just becaused I liked the ones that Sheila made. I am constantly inspired by things other sewists make.

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  16. Woo Hoo! Another pattern to add to my continuously growing (now over grown) stash! This is a really cute top Faye! I to saw it on Sheila's blog and added it to my list, now I'm heading out to get it! Get job and thanks for the convincing review!

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  17. It's such a great pattern, a quick sew with lots of options too. Really I think the dress would be a great make too. It's rare that I take full advantage of all the possibilities of a good wardrobe pattern. This just might be the one to do just that.

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  18. Love your version of this top. I recently purchased this pattern and hope to sew it one day.
    I place stabilizer usually on the back shoulder seam, mainly because the instructions say so. I have never thought about should it go on the front or back. Out of habit now I use on the back. I have used clear elastic, my favorite though is Design Plus fusible bias or straight tape.

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  19. Cute top! Now I think I need to add this pattern to my must sew list too. I use clear elastic to stabilize my knit shoulder seams. I add it to the back seam and press the seam to the back.

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