Inspired to make McCall's 7660, View A...

...when my sew friend Sheila CKT made this pattern last week, not once but twice I thought it was marvelous and just had to have one for myself.  It so nice that we can find inspiration in the work of others, and if we really like it - we can make one up ourselves.  Now mind you, every inspired make doesn't work out so well for me, but thank goodness this one did.
 

I've had this pattern since it was first released, I think early in 2017.  Though I liked it, I didn't make it because I actually thought it needed to be made in a sweater knit and I didn't have one that was suitable.  Then Sheila mentioned that she made it in a regular knit (ITY or Jersey), of which I have plenty.

I eliminated the collar and installed a neckband instead.  I used the single fold neck binding method from Lynda Maynard's book "The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques" page 40

works perfectly for me every time so why do I even bother with others? No measuring, no formulas, no stretching, no rippling. I just start with a 30" 1 3/8" rectangular strip - stitch and cut off the excess. Works every time.  I think this black ITY was perfect for this pattern.  This was easy make, but attaching the gathered sleeve to the cuff (whee) that was a little rough... 

#Decemberbdaysew: Happy Birthday To Me...

...thank God for another year! I've always enjoyed having my birthday just 7 days before Christmas., It has been a very happy birthday indeed, especially since I was able to complete my new top last night.  It always feels good to wear something new on ones birthday.  I went with New Look 6415 again since I had already used the pattern twice before (here and here). 

I chose to work with stretch panne velour again in a different color-way. I went with View C but added long sleeves that I modified just a bit by cutting the bottom of the sleeve in a slight bell shape.

The panne velour provided just the right amount of warmth for this chilly day paired with my Vogue 8859 pants made several months ago.  Now it's time to clean the sewing room again.  I've got far too many loose pattern pieces floating around in here.

What's going on in your sewing world???

88 #Decemberbdaysew - PJ's For Me...

...early last week I mentioned that I really need several pairs of new PJ's.  I chose my patterns and my fabric and set out to make this simple project happen.  In the meantime, I changed my mind about the original pattern choices - which is quite natural for me. This is what I came up with:

The Kwik Sew pattern is an oldie but goodie, but I've made it several times before from the turtleneck view.  I actually hacked the upper sleeve and the neckband from an old tee shirt I never wear to add a little bit of contrast to the top and to match the gray stripe.  I chose the pant because of the slim leg width and the pockets (like I need pockets in bed). I miraculously ended up with stripes that match even though I cut the fabric double.

I really need a couple more pair, but I'll try to sneak them later...

87 #Decemberbdaysew - Never Enough Time...

...I intermittently think about sewing all day long - what I'm going to sew and how much I can get accomplished when I get home - Yeah right!  And then when the clock does strike time to go home, there's always one or two errands to run that seem to alter all my sewing plans.  Today it was State Election Runoff, egad somebody had better win this time!

I've been watching lots of people making pj's for their entire family, what a nice Christmas tradition.  Decent PJ's are something I always seem to be in desperate need of but never take the time to make.  Today I decided to make a quick pair as part of my #Decemberbdaysew Celebration.

They won't be the tailored type that I'd really like, but I think they'll be sort of cute.  I'll be using this recently donated knit fabric

and combining these two patterns.

Burda 6630 Ragland tee rather than buying another popular Independent Ragland pattern that I'm in love with, and

Butterick 6296 pants even though it's a woven pattern, I'll go down a size for my knit fabric

Now to see how far I can get in sewing these up this week...

#BLC 2018 - Day 29: Sew What You Know......

...

I mentioned last night that I would be using NewLook 6415 because I had had recent success with it using a stretch Panne Velour.  I had never used this fabric before so I was a little timid.  But after figuring my fit (size, particularly through the neck, shoulders and bust) this top turned out really good.  The only thing I'd really change the second one is lowering the neckline just a bit.

 I pre-treated the fabric last night and had all intentions of cutting but ran out of time.

I did manage to cut tonight, but no actual sewing took place.  Well, after all tomorrow is another day...

#BLC 2018 - Day 21: My Very First Mimi G Style Make...

...my name is Linda Faye Lewis and I am a collector of patterns (much like many other sewists I know)!  I especially hoard collect Big 4 Designer Patterns.  To name a few: Paco Peralta, Kay Unger, Michael Kors, Cynthia Rowley, Leanne Marshall, Kathryn Brenne, Bagley Mischka, and Mimi G Style.  Although I have managed to make up a few of these, they mostly just linger patiently in my stash.  A few of them do make it to my inspiration board to act as constant reminders that one day, they would like to get made.
 

This week I was stopped in my Instagram scroll by a simple but distinct Mimi G Style knit top made by @1oh6vintage.  I really liked her top a lot.

I had seen the pattern but had not really noticed the unique asymmetry of the shoulder design until I saw it on Instagram.  Since I have a good stock of stripped knit fabrics on hand I thought I would give this pattern a whirl.

I honestly didn't know that I had this many knit stripped fabrics stashed.  There are probably a few more tucked back in hidden places that I will run into one day.

I thought this would be an quick and easy make, and it was except for my fabric. This knit turned out to be the kind that "loves itself" just a little bit to much - meaning that it sticks to itself.  I didn't realize this until I began cutting.  It was an uphill battle all the way, but I did the best I could to complete the top.

This is a brown and white stripped (some kind of knit), sorry but I just don't know which.  Simplicity 8750, View A is comprised of 5 pattern pieces. The front is one single piece that is gathered and attached to the yoke to create the right shoulder seam and complete the right armscye.  My stripe matching is not perfect, however, I did the best I could.  I'll count my first MimiGStyle pattern a success, and it will get worn...

#BLC 2018 (Day 2) - Figuring the Fit - New Look 6415

??? yep, that's what it really all boils down to - FIGURING THE FIT!  There are so many things to consider when trying to choose the correct pattern size.  Of course there are sewists who are able to pinpoint that baby in the blink of an eye - believe me - they amaze me and I commend them! Although it has been quite a number of years since I reentered the sewing arena, I openly admit that pattern sizing is STILL NOT my forte - but trust, I am constantly working on it.

Let's go wayyyyy back to the beginning when I couldn't wait to enter 8th grade. When, to be truthful, the only things I was interested in was World Geography and HOME ECONOMICS!  I was taught how to take correct body measurements and use the back of the pattern envelope to choose the right size for me.  This was all quite straight forward being was shaped as straight as a stick.  Fit wasn't an important issue in Home Ec where we majored on learning the parts of the machine, sewing terms, how to stitch straight, how to read what we called "The Guide Sheet", and construction methods.  Remembering Home Ec is all an exciting blur of what reinforced my love of a craft that was already my passion.

Let's fast forward to current day when choosing the correct size of the simplest pattern can set me in a tizzy.

In a recent loooong afternoon pattern sizing chat with my sewing friend Cecil, we discussed the size chart from the back of the envelope and the finished garment bust measurements on the front pattern piece.  We also discussed the difficulty of choosing from the (xs, s, m, l, xl) sizing ranges.  As you can tell the conversation was quite intense, but helped me decide:

•  that I should choose the Mediium size through the shoulder, upper chest and bust area to prevent gapping, and
• that 3 1/2" ease across the bust area was just too much when using a knit fabric, and finally
• that we should find a Pattern Sizing Class if any such thing exists.

Here's a picture of my top in Stretch Panne Velour I choose View D but opted to add the long sleeves.  I'd never worked with velour before and was surprised to find that it quite slippery.  I really like the top besides the neckline being a bit too high (so unlike the picture from the front of the pattern envelope).  I actually thought about unpicking the neck binding but that's okay - it's really no fun unpicking top stitching from this fabric.

A simple make - will I make it again?  Maybe so, and I've made notes that the front neckline should be lowered.

That's it.  Now let me see what else I can make...



mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

FALL'S SWEET 16 (GARMENT #4)...

...raise your hand if you have an animal print fabric in your stash (specifically a knit). I remember
animal print fabrics being really hot a few years ago, I just don't see them being used as much as before.  Back then there were so many different knit ones - for some the animal they mimicked were almost unidentifiable - like the one I  pulled out of the stash this week to use as a muslin.  I must have really adored the fabric when I purchased it because after using 2 1/4 yards for this top, I still have 2  yards left.

When using a pattern for the first time I quite often forget to check out "Pattern Review" to see what others have experienced, but with McCall's 7249 I remembered to do that and it was well worth my time.

Reviewers spoke the absolute truth - the pattern is truly a puzzle.  With reviews like this I normally say, "never mind" and put the pattern neatly back in the drawer.  But since I've had the pattern for a while and was still very attracted to it, I decided to give it a go first as a muslin.  I cut on Tuesday, worked on it a little each day, finished it tonight, and yes indeed it was truly a puzzle.  Reviewers said that the pattern ran large, but I did not find that to be so.

Overlay Side Ruching

MY SYNOPSIS OF THE PROJECT:
Did I make changes to the pattern?  Yes. I used a rectangular fabric strip to create a back neck facing rather than turn under and stitch which I like much better.  I tacked down the overlay facings to prevent them from flipping outward.
Will I wear this muslin?  Yes I will
Will I make the pattern again?  Probably not.  Original plans were to make the muslin, then if I liked it enough, use the pattern for my black ITY knit.  Although I'll wear the muslin, I don't think the pattern is worthy of my (hard to come by for my area) black ITY; and it involved a bit too much work for a knit top.

 Four garments down, 12 to go...

FALL'S SWEET 16 (Garment 3)...

...how does one make a 16 piece wardrobe capsule? - One garment at a time.  I reached way back in my pattern collection and fabric stash for my third piece of the capsule.  This time I retrieved OOP Vogue 8323 and a deep chocolate ITY knit - both of which have been in my stash collections for eons.

I made View C in this same chocolate ITY knit long ago when I was just starting to sew again.  That was back when I was very unsure of pattern sizing and still having problems accepting the fact that my RTW size and pattern size quite often did not correlate.  On the flip side, that was when I was (and sometimes still am) unsure of sizing - so I would often cut a larger size just to make sure.  That top ended up being way too large through the neck and bust area, not to mention really too low cut for my taste. That top has long been discarded.

This time I raised the neckline 1 1/2", cut size 16 through the neckline and bust area and graded to size 18 through the waist and high hip area.  I also increased the princess seam - seam allowance in the bust area for a much better fit.  This top has princess seaming on both the front and back that I stitched down afterwards.  Rather than add bias tape to finish the neckline, I used a 1 3/8" wide self fabric strip for finishing.  I cannot stand bias tape around my neck.  I also used a twin needle on the neckline and bottom and sleeve hems.  I'm glad to finally get around to replacing my Chocolate ITY knit top.  The princess seaming adds  great fit detail.

Now to decide on garment #4.  Happy weekend sewing ya'll...

FALL'S SWEET 16 (I MADE SOMETHING)...

...it seems that I have neglected my blog.  But you know me better than that - it wasn't neglect at all but rather - circumstances.  We had the aftermath of Hurricane Irma that not only knocked out my power for three days, but also the data disk that held 2 years worth of saved documents and pictures.  Then the stressful busyness of work played it's part.  And finally the fact that my sewing motivation just up and flew away with Irma.

Finally after much coxing just a little bit of the motivation has returned, and now it's time for me to get back to my Fall Sweet 16 sewing plans that I talked about here at the end of August.  My plans were not rigid or stressful, just a simple 16 piece capsule that would define my personal style for the upcoming Fall/Winter Season:

• 4 Coat/Jacket/Vest or Cardigan
• 4 Tops/Tunics/Blouses or Tees
• 4 Pants
• 4 Dresses and/or Skirts

Back in August when the plans were made I didn't even want to commit myself to patterns and fabrics that I'd use for the capsule. I just wanted to pull patterns and fabrics that struck my fancy along the way.

My first  project:

Bell Sleeved Hem

 I made a Modified version of View D with this TNT pattern. I added a choker tie to the surplice bodice; and changed the 3/4 length sleeve to an over exaggerated full length with a bell shape at the hem.  I remember buying this purple and white jersey knit from JoAnn's.  The printed selvage edge noted April Johnson 2010.  Do you remember April of Savannah from Project Runway Season 8 in 2010.  Do you think 7 years was long enough to let this fabric marinate?

DO YOU EVERY MAKE A GARMENT JUST TO LEARN A NEW TECHNIQUE...

...have you ever sewn a garment just to see if you could handle it, or to learn a particular technique.  Well such was the case of this pattern

Jalie 2921 Knit Scarf Neck Top

I've had this pattern for about seven years and I did make it once way back then.  My curiosity got the best of me, and I just couldn't resist the temptation of learning more about the burrito technique of attaching the scarf collar to this top.  I just wanted to find out if I was capable of making this top successfully, and I did do just that. The only problem with the first top I made was that I used 5/8" seam allowances rather than 1/4" so the results were a little snug.  Fast forward to this week when I wanted to use this particular knit fabric (gifted by Diane Osborn) for a top.

This is such an interesting technique.  Would you believe that the  entire top is encased in this scarf tube?

I received a much better fit this time around because I actually read the directions better and used the right seam allowance.

In addition to reading the directions I actually found this great YouTube video that shows exactly how to put the entire top together.  This made my job a breeze.

One of the best things about completing a project (no matter how simple) is being freed up to make yet another project.

What interesting projects are you freed up to sew????

WRAPPING UP THE MONTH - VOGUE 9057...

...after seeing my sewing friend Cecil wear this top on one of our JoAnn's pattern buying meetups, I decided that I needed to make one too.

I actually cut out View B several weeks ago but then became heavily involved with my Mother's cape, so I just had to set it aside for a bit.  I rarely cut two projects at once.  It's one of my methods of preventing the possibility of UFO's in my sewing room.  Secondly, I ALMOST ALWAYS complete a project before starting another one.  I just don't need any UFO's flying around in here.  I have far too many distractions already than to add that to the list.

This Marcy Tilton pattern was made as a wearable muslin to allow me a chance to check the fit.   The fabric is a self lined waffle knit gifted by my Alabama friend Brenda of Ms._bstyle.  (NOTE:  If you want some real sewing inspiration check Brenda out on Instagram.)  The tunic is long and gives ample coverage back and front for wearing with leggings. It is wearable, but I will need to make a tiny adjustment in the shoulder area when if I make the pattern again...

IS IT TOO EARLY TO CLASSIFY GIFTS AS LAST MINUTE???

...although Christmas is about two weeks away I feel as though this gift is last minute. Why?  Because I've procrastinated of course.   I've thought about making it for a while but didn't think I had enough fabric for the pattern I had in mind.  When I finally decided to give the pattern a try, I discovered that it was no longer living in the sewing room but had been archived  in a "I know I won't be using these patterns any time soon" box in the attic.  OH HOW I HATE GOING UP IN THE ATTIC!, but I had to do it to retrieve this pattern

Simplicity 2804 circa 2007 

 It's an oldie but a goodie slightly oversized tunic or top pattern that I'd used once before.  Just the right pattern to use when you don't know how to make the full bust adjustment needed for the person who'll receive the gift.

I made view C (top with a bottom band) because it required less yardage.   

A knit fabric with a glitzy gold zigzag stripe just right for the upcoming festive holiday season.  I did the best I could on matching with the amount of fabric available for the job.  All and all I think it turned out well.  A quick make that helped me alleviate one more present from my last minute list.

Fabric gifted by Timesa Spencer-Johnson of Fresno, California.  Guess you can say I'm a bit of a Fabric Whisperer myself...

#FAYE'S SEWING LIFE - A Turtle or A Zebra?...

...i've been wanting to make a few turtleneck knit tops to fill a wardrobe gap.  I made the first one (here) using oop Kwik Sew 1287 that fits perfectly.  However,  I wanted to use a different pattern for the second top - this time I wanted a funnel neck instead of a turtle neck.  I toyed with the idea of trying to redraft the Kwik Sew pattern making it into a funnel, but couldn't wrap my brain around doing that.  A little research lead me to StyleArc's Debra Zebra top.  I've never worked with StyleArc patterns before but went ahead and downloaded it anyway. 

The jury's still out about me liking PDF patterns, but with a strong cup of coffee and lots of scotch tape I was able to make it through.  I choose my size range based on my bust measurement, but afterwards wondered if I should have used my high bust measurement instead.  Hind sight!  I choose a colorful ITY knit to use as a muslin.  The results:  I'm in Love with my muslin and the neck is really comfortable.  I'm sure that this will not be my last StyleArc pattern.

I didn't realize that the paisleys were so large until after the top was finished.

My wearable muslin adds a much needed pop of color.

Have you ever made a funnel neck garment???