THE FIRST DRESS OF SUMMER...

I know, it's barely spring and I'm already proclaiming summer. I'm in the mood for easy to wear, flowy, breathable summer dresses. Even though there is still a slight chill in the air I thought I'd better get started. I have visions of all kinds of dresses; pretty printed cotton ones, colorful knit ones, long ones, short ones just dresses. I even want a shirt waist dress. This is so unlike me. You might have guessed that I love
Not that I shop there often at all, but their commercials draw me in. So whimsical and funny. Last year I made a special trip there just to see the modelkins, "Kim them". So I do window shop there and every once and a while find something that I do have to buy because it is at a ridiculously low price. This year Old Navy is featuring skirts as well as dresses for summer and I love them all. Probably won't make a purchase, but I can steal ideas and come away with lots of easy, breezy inspiration.

Last year it was their Town Gowns that inspired me. This year they are calling them Sundown Gowns. So let me introduce you to my rendition (even though it's only knee length) - my Sundown Gown. This, paired with some chocolate brown sandals, will be my "I need to run to the grocery store"; or "I need to shoot out to Hancock's real quick to pick up a zipper" dress. I can look neat with little effort and remain cool in temperatures that are sure to reach the 100's in just a few months.

My dress form does my garment no justice. She has, what my Mother would call, bow hips and for the life of me I cannot adjust them. Oh well, maybe one day I'll get one of better quality. Anyways, I've started my second summer dress and will be posting it soon....

P.S. Oh, I forgot to tell you.... I made this dress from New Look 6785 and it was all a mistake! I took one look at the pattern envelope and surmised that it was for a knit. Never even looked at fabric suggestions made by the pattern company. I was so disappointed in myself, but I was not about to waste one of my first NY fashion district fabrics. After I got this fabric home last summer I was overwhelmed by the size of the butterflies on this chocolate brown knit. I said, "what in the world was I thinking to buy this big print", mind you I also bought it in another color so you will be seeing the print again. I didn't discover that the pattern was sized for knits until after I had cut the fashion fabric. Egad! But Ebony consoled me by saying "you can make up a knit using a woven pattern but not vice versa". Well she was right it turned out great! Moral of the story: I NEED TO MAKE SURE I STOP AND READ THE PATTERN ENVELOPE!

I'LL BET EVERYBODY HAS ONE OF THESE....

I've had mine for months or maybe even several years. I'm a great fan on Hancock's 50% off notion sale that comes around every now and them, and no doubt it during one of those times that I pick up one of these...

I thought it was such a good idea, but it just sat in the notion drawer all that time. Until....I agreed to hem not one pair but five pairs of jeans for a friend. He didn't want them cut off, just turned up exactly one inch. I needed help jumping those humps so I pulled out a heavier duty machine and my Jean-a-ma-jig.

I must admit that there are times when I'm nervous about attaching or using something like this contraption to my machines. Besides, how can something so small and cheap really actually work? Well, it did work! Just sew up close to the hump, leave the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot and insert the contraction underneath the back of the presser foot. Lower the foot and slowly sew over the hump. Once you reach the top of the hump, transfer the plastic piece to the front of the hump and continue to sew until clear of the hump. No skipped stitches, no broken needles. By the way I used a size 16 needle that specified use on heavy weight woven fabrics. It was such a help and made a dreaded job much easier.
So now you know...I'm a notion collector.

I took SMOKING NEEDLES suggestion and purchased a size 18 needle today for these type jobs (which I hope and pray there won't be many of). Every once and a while I have to help someone out because God knows I need help sometimes. I am, however, thinking about getting a t-shirt that reads "ATTENTION: I AM NOT A HEMMER - BUT WILL GLADLY TEACH YOU TO HEM YOUR OWN PANTS!"....

ADDITIONALLY, Julia nominated me for this new award:

The requirements for this accepting award are as follows:
1. Place the logo within your blog or post.
2. Pass the award on to 12 bloggers.
3. Link the nominees within the post.
4. Let the nominees know they have received the award by commenting on their blogs.
5. Share the love and link to the person from whom you received the award.

Thank you for the award Julia. I'm a little busy today so I only have time to nominate 6 bloggers. I LOVE finding interesting NEW sewing blogs. There are so many out there that I haven't even seen yet. Here are six new ones that really bring some SUNSHINE to my sewing life:

• boodogg.blogspot.com

• countrygirlcouture.blogspot.com

• debramartin.blogspot.com

• handmadebycarolyn.blogspot.com

• jacquimsimplestyle.blogspot.com

• tillyandthebuttons.blogspot.com

I'm putting the finishing touches on my first SUMMER DRESS. Can you believe that???

IT WORE LIKE A CHARM...

I thought I'd better get some wear from what I think is my last winter suit of the season. Did I say yesterday that "spring will be here in 1 1/2" weeks"? Well, maybe it will be here in two weeks because it was still really chilly at lunchtime today. My suit was comfortable, nothing binding or pulling on me - so that was a good thing. To make something, try it on and the fit is good is one thing, but the true test is an 8 hour stand a while, sit a while work day.

I love my suit and have nothing negative to say about it, but you know how we sewers are. So the synoptic review of the suit is:

• The jacket is a good fit! This is in parts thanks to the "Threads Fitting" DVDs, where I learned to fit my middle to ensure ample room for closure in the front of my jacket without increasing the shoulder size. I prefer wearing it open opposed to buttoned. The sleeve ruffle is o.k., and I will make the jacket again for spring/summer, but next time the sleeve will be cut slightly longer and the ruffle will not be as wide. I just think a wide ruffle is a bit overpowering on me.
  

• As I've mentioned before, I must go down a hip size when I make the next pair of pants. There was plenty of room for bending and sitting, but I think they are still a little baggy in the hip area.

All in all I think its a great suit that I'll get lots of wear out of next fall/winter season...

THE EXPO'S A WRAP...

I did make it to the Original Sewing and Quilt Expo again this year. This was my third year and I was just as excited about going as I was the first. This year it was just me and Ebony because Lisa had to work. We watched one of the fashion shows presented by the independent pattern companies that were at the expo and just basically spent all of our time walking the floor visiting all of the exhibits and ohhhhing and awwwwing. I didn't take a class this year although I probably should have. I forgot to take my camera with me but oh well. As many of the attenders have already reported it was mainly a quilt expo with just a little bit sprinkled here and there for garment/fashion sewers. I do love quilts and always enjoy seeing the creativity of the quilts exhibited. And quilters do have lots of notions that I can use in my garment sewing as well. It's just nice to be able to get out of town at least once a year to see different things and people.

I didn't run into any fellow bloggers this year but I was looking for you. I know that lots of people went early during the week and had already gone home by Saturday (like my buddy Brenda from Alabama). I drove almost the whole way there and Ebony drove back home. Man, that Atlanta traffic does not play around.

I got two gorgeous knit fabrics and a nice georgette from Vogue Fabrics. I got a seam presser and clapper from the wood man, a few smaller notions - (no patterns this year) and several sewing machine feet. Afterwards we made a Joann's stop where I picked up another jeweled toned knit and some nice denim with 2% lycra, one each Burda and Simplicity pattern, and 7 cones of the chocolate brown shade of serger thread that I can NEVER find around here. I wanted 8 but they only had 7.

I had to by pass Cynthia Guffey's collection of raw silk that was on sale for $21.95 rather than $31.95. All in the prettiest jewel tones I've ever seen - Boy oh boy I really wanted some of that! It was all 45" width so I had to pass on by. And then the wool people with the cashmere and wonderful herringbone tweed - had to pass on by that too.

It was a very nice trip and I really enjoyed Ebony although I am dog tired today. I need to start saving right now for next year when I go God willing...

I guess the Expo in March should be my cut off for fall/winter sewing. I don't know why I hold on so to fall/winter sewing every year. I guess I just love sewing wools and fabrics with lots of body. Although I was born at the very end of fall I am really a spring/summer type of person. You would think that I'd be in a hurry to sew for spring. The yoshino cherry, Japanese magnolia, and Bradford pear trees are all in full bud and just starting to bloom. I even saw a daffodil which is always my clue. So regardless of the temperature or what the weatherman says - Spring is officially about a week and a half away. Just call me "Nature Girl", because I know...

I MUST GO AHEAD AND ADMIT......

that I have been coveting these tops made by Jazz Couture as her entry in Pattern Review's wardrobe contest (which by the way she won the coveted second place prize). Maybe it was the colors of her two tops that grabbed my attention. Or, maybe it was the simple but elegant design lines of the top. I don't know, but they were heavy on my mind for a while, and have just recently popped back up.

The possibilities of me getting my hands on a copy of La Mia Boutique 09-2008-8 are very slim, so I am searching for patterns to use in my morphing attempt. Here's the line drawing - so simple, but elegant. I'm in love with it! The bodice of the the design is a simple "V" - not a overlap that creates a "V". I have lots of patterns that overlap, but only a few with a definite "V". For some reason the line drawing gives the look of a woven fabric, but it's a knit.
Here's a pattern I picked out for the "V" neckline.

Or maybe this midriff could be made into V neckline.
The top has a shirred midriff. I've can't remember ever doing any shirring, but I think I've found a pattern that will provide that information for me.

I choose this vintage pattern for the neckband and front tie. Even though it's for a woven, I think it will work for a knit.



This will be a true Frankenstein design. Does anyone have a simpler idea for doing this????

My Jacket is complete...

My jacket is done, and that completes another suit that I actually started in January. This was the fabric I had to squeeze to make work. I used Lisa's pattern suggestion

and turns out the only thing I had to patch for lack of fabric was the sleeve ruffle. Instead of cutting one continuous cuff pattern piece, I cut two pieces from the fashion fabric. I used a french seam to sew the pieces together because the sleeve cuff is not lined - thus my patch. It turned out pretty nicely.

I also reduced the patterns amount of sleeve ease and the jacket sleeve has no puckering. I can't tell you how happy I am not having to fight with sleeve puckering.

My sewing progress was very slow this week intentionally. I slowly hand stitched the jacket, hem and sleeve lining to ensure that no pic marks occurred. I hate pic marks!

I saw a RTW jacket very similar to this one that I liked a lot so I really think I'll be making this pattern again.

I know that lots of blogger read Threads Magazine. I haven't missed an issue since discovering it in 2007. I love the magazine. My favorite sections of the magazine are: Closures because I enjoy the freelance story of the month. So many of the pieces are so familiar to me. and the back cover (Up Close) because I love devouring the detail work of the vintage pieces. When the Magazine arrives I immediately turn to these two sections and then I read the tips.
I swear I was just talking with Lisa about waistbands prior to reading Thread's tip on them in the latest issue. We discussed the exact same method. It amazed me...I just saying...

TA DA...

I'm just waiting for those kids to say "we're tired of taking your pictures" (lol). But maybe out of 51 students I'll continue to be able to get one of them to do the pointing and shooting for me. I decided to wear my tweed suit before I run out of winter. It was nice not to have to think about what I'd wear to work today. I opted not to wear the teal blouse today but rather choose a favorite oldie but goldie short sleeved velour top from the closet. The suit wore marvelously I must say. I think I need to make the pants a tad bit smaller in the waist and maybe go down a size in the upper chest area of the jacket (but that's all for next time) as I am completely finished with this suit. I'm glad that I decided (after much back and forth and in-decisiveness) to interface the entire body of the jacket rather than just the front, front facing and collar. I think it held up beautifully through the course of the day because of the interfacing. I am such a jacket person and have been for a long time. I love this jacket and will be making this pattern or a style similar to it many more times, but...

I really need to do another style jacket next. I don't think it would be a good idea for me to have just one style, and besides I have several RTW of this style already. I collect almost every jacket pattern that comes out from the Big 4, but have been in love with this pattern since I first laid eyes on it...
I just thought, and still think that is is so classy casual. Well, several months ago I finally bit the bullet and purchased it. When it arrived I pulled it out of the envelope, pursued the instructions and gently place it right back in after finding out that it had 17, yes that's right 17 pattern pieces. NO WONDER IT'S SO DARNED CUTE - HA! Well, this weekend I decided that I still loved it and it was time that I took it for a spin. After all, how hard can an intermediate pattern be? I decided to use a ponte like knit that I've had for a while to make a wearable muslin. To my surprise sewing through all the layers of this knit created when top stitching made working on my beloved Hot Pattern Rivera Boulevard Jacket a sewist's nightmare. I promise you that I really tried to finish this jacket! I work so hard on not having UFO's and find that the only way not to have one is to finish or ditch the project. But alas here sits one...

(THIS IS SO WONKY THAT I WON'T APOLOGIZE FOR THE BAD PHOTOGRAPHS)

so close to completion, I think - but yet so far away. Gwen made this jacket from a woven and hers is beautiful. I will try it in a woven later on - I'm still in love with the pattern, but I still have not decided whether I'll keep this jacket. I've promised my sewing friends that I won't put it in file 13 until they get a chance to see it in person. So it will just sit on Lucy until that time - ON PUNISHMENT! (Can you tell I miffed?) In the meantime, I'M MOVING ON...

I made a pair of wool blend cuffed pants during the December/January Pants Sew along. They have just been sitting because I didn't have enough fabric left (as I had planned) to make the matching jacket I wanted. This is a fabric that I got on my New York shopping trip last summer and I have a real attitude because I was trying to buy more and the guy who cut/tore it for me insisted that I didn't need that much to make a suit. I should have said "#$%* it (you know my Mother and Daughter read my blog), I know how much I need, I'm the one buying it, sell me the amount I want"! But Nooooooo, that was on one of my nice days and I listened to him and came up short!!!! {Feels like it's time for a new paragraph}

But, I am DETERMINED to still have a suit from this fabric.


I spent the entire evening last night searching pattern stash and came up with a few options, but after talking with my friend Lisa tonight she mentioned this option (the gold one in the picture)...

(this is not the first time that she's come up with a pattern suggestion for me). So I'm off to grab a bite to eat and then trim this pattern to see if I can MAKE IT FIT my fabric.............

YOU DO KNOW I WRITE LONG POSTS, RIGHT...

I can't believe that I did this long, highly informative post, and then the internet went down and I lost it ALL. Oh well that's about how the sewing week went for me anyway. Last Saturday while working on a quick and dirty knit top and while serging a seam I heard a loud pop - like a needle had broken or something. Tried to change the needles and of course could not get the screws to budge. I had only 20 minutes to get to the repair shop before it closed, only to get there and find out that not only was a needle bent, but it had knocked my lower looper out of alignment. Had to leave it at the repair shop, but thank God I had a backup serger. Came back home to finish working on the top only to decide that it just wasn't working out and it was time to ditch this Frankenstein knit that tore up my serger.

So, then I decided to work on the teal charmusey top to match my suit. Now really, I made my last lined jacket in a week, why did it take me a week to make this top. Sewing just did not go well for me during the past week. I'm just not lasting long enough at night. Once I have supper - IT'S A WRAP!, and there is no longer any use in trying to get any sewing done. That is the way it's gone for me all week. SEWING = NON-PRODUCTIVE.

I knew I shouldn't have gone with the collared version of Vogue 8392, but I did it anyway. Decisions, decisions! I had the dickens of a time getting the collar facing to act right. I finally got it on, but it's a little wonky. But I am not taking it off. I think it will work just fine under a jacket. WILL I USE THIS PATTERN AGAIN? Yes, I probably will. I think it makes for a nice professional looking under a jacket top. However, next time I will use one of the other neckline variations instead.
I did try something new with this top. I removed sleeve ease prior to cutting the fabric because I am SICK AND TIRED of dealing with excessive sleeve ease that results in me having to work out puckers. I used Sandra Betzina "Power Sewing" tip for removing the ease, page 206. This tip references jacket sleeve caps, but I thought I'd take a chance on a blouse sleeve. I think it worked out wonderfully! I removed approximately 3/4" of ease from each sleeve, and it left just the right amount of ease for my sleeve cap. LOOK MOM, NO PUCKERING!, and that makes me happy.


So besides a little wonkyness with my collar the blouse is completed.

Last week I finished the skirt to the matching set. I used my TNT Butterick 4613 straight skirt pattern but added an invisible zipper application that I am so proud of. I probably watched this video tutorial 20 times, because I am DETERMINED this zipper application become second nature to me.I also added a pleated vent to the hem of the skirt rather than the regular vent suggested by the pattern instructions. This picture shows the pleat before removing the basting stitches. We use to call this a kick pleat - is it still called that. Next time I'll add additional pleating to the vent for a fan effect.

So, the suit is a WRAP. And I know, I need to take pictures of me wearing the outfit. I will as soon as possible. It's just so hard finding someone to take the pictures for me. Albeit, here is one that the kids kindly took of me several weeks ago of me wearing my chanel jacket. My main objective in making this jacket was for it to wear and handle like a sweater. I realized that that objective was accomplished when one of the students said "oh Ms. Lewis I love your sweater".


Now, let me find something else to cut...

THIRD BLOG ANNIVERSARY GIVE-A-WAY WINNER...

In honor of my 3rd blog anniversary I offered this sewing resource:
Sandra Betzina's "Power Sewing" is a great resource book, and one that I reach for often. It's such a great book that I really shouldn't be surprised that of 42 sewists who stopped by to wish me happy anniversary, most already own the book. So the drawing was held for the 11 who did not already have it. Since I haven't bothered to learn more about the random generator I had to opt for a more antiquated system...

(My serger catch basket)

So the winner is #5 - Amber of Obsessed with Pink.
So, Amber if you will contact me with your mailing address, your book will be on the way to you.

I'm looking forward to another great blogging year. Thanks to all who look in here as I continue my sewing adventure....

HAPPY BLOG ANNIVERSARY TO ME!!!

Today marks my THIRD BLOG ANNIVERSARY! Having a sewing blog has been a big asset to me, and instrumental in helping me improve my sewing skills over the last three years. Talk about inspirational, challenging and informative all wrapped up in one. Why in just the last year I've stepped out of the box and taken on some projects that I thought I'd never be brave enough to try. Oh, I still have a wadder every now and then; I still know where all my mistakes are - but I'm now less likely to point them out to those who wouldn't know the difference anyway. I've made lots of garments that I am so proud to wear....,

...and I've enjoyed the process along the way. Many THANKS to my fellow bloggers who have answered questions, given me encouragement, and made so many lovely comments about my projects.

ALSO, many THANKS to all who have signed on to follow my blog. It amazes me to think that so many people find my blog interesting, and check in from time to time to see what I'm doing.
I've been saving a copy of my most used sewing resource for an anniversary GIVEAWAY drawing!
The drawing for the book will be next Wednesday (CHANGED TO SATURDAY 2/13/09). Contestants must:

• be followers of my blog by that time,
  
• comment their interest in the drawing on THIS this post,
  
• and let me know your favorite pattern (OOP qualifies).

I will ship. In the meantime, HAPPY BLOG ANNIVERSARY TO ME!!!

TRUSTY TNT PATTERNS YIELD NEW OUTFIT...

QUESTION??? Just how many times do you have to use a pattern before it becomes a TNT, two...three?

This week I worked on this Butterick Blazer. A week to make a slightly tailored TNT blazer is not really that long at all. But, if that is true, why does it seem that this project took way to long to finish? I didn't do a muslin because it was my second time using the pattern, and because Lisa help me fit the shell. That part was actually done two weeks ago and after that I put it aside and took time to make the matching pants to finish out the January pants sew-a-long. I worked on the jacket a little every night during the week. I worked out any problems that I experienced by sewing in my mind while at work. DO YOU EVER SEW IN YOUR MIND? I incorporated some minute tailoring techniques in the garment. I made lined faux pocket flaps; trimmed the lapel and under collar to achieve just the right amount for proper turn of the cloth; used armo bias strips to ease the sleeves, inserted sleeve headers and shoulder pads, and topped the whole project off by using hem tape on the jacket bottom and sleeve hem. Of course the jacket is fully lined. I started to add pad stitching to the under collar and lapel, but opted to save that for another project. I am quite pleased with the jacket so here is a picture of my finished garment.


There are flecks of red, teal and beige mingled in this tweed fabric. I have a slightly charmusey (made up word) like teal fabric that I will use to make a top for this suit, and there is still a pencil skirt to come from the same fabric. Might as well stitch it up next while the machine and serger are already threaded with brown.

So on with the matching tweed skirt....