October 9, 2009

STILL GOING CHANEL...

Never can remember whether Chanel has one "n" or two - oh well I'm sure you know what I mean.

I'm working on my jacket muslin, and the process is going very well. I'm planning on adding faux welt pocket flaps, but I'm undecided whether to use just two - I could use three or even four, but I want to make sure that I'm not over crowding it. The pocket flaps will have braided trim across them (I still have not purchased the trim yet) and I don't want them to make the jacket look junky.

Vouge 7975 has a two piece sleeve which I usually try to avoid. In addition to the two piece sleeve, I still have to contend with excess sleeve cap ease. I know that ease is a necessary thing, but I cannot stand the puckers that result from it. Several months ago my friend Lisa Howard had told me about using Armo-Rite (found in old ties) cut on the bias to ease sleeves in with the puckers. I tried it and obviously did not know what I was doing because it did not work. I noticed recently that Erica Bunker showed the same technique in a tutorial so I gave it another try. I used regular bias tape (ironed open) as a substitute to ease the sleeves in my jacket muslin.


This time it worked like a charm. So I owe a big "Thank You" to both Lisa and Erica because now I'll satisfied with my sleeves.


Today I'll search my limited source here in town for my trim, and if that fails I turn to the internet. It's time for me to get the show on the road and cut into my fashion fabric.

Before I end this post I'd like to show you a new addition to my collection - my new, old Singer sewing machine. Hancock's put all of their refurbished machines on clearance last week, and I was able to pick this one up for $32.00. I didn't realize until I got it home that it didn't have a thumb screw for the needle or the thing that holds the thread spoon on the spindle. I took it in to the repair shop today and got that taken care if for only $15.00. The man said that the machine is in excellent condition and looked to have only about 10 hours sewing use. It's quite heavy, just the machine I wanted for heavier fabrics like home decor if I ever decide to get involved. I am such a Singer person...

October 6, 2009

I'VE GOT TO GO CHANNEL....

OR GO HOME. I've done little else but introduce myself on the Channel Blog, but I finally got around to starting my jacket for the challenge. I'm a little over the start date of September 1st but better late than never... I cut my muslin yesterday and started putting it together this evening. Here's the pattern I finally choose from the ones I had on hand, my fabric and shocking pink lining.



This is my first fitting after making a few adjustments in the waist area of the jacket. I decreased the four princess seams 1/4inch in the waist area and I think I like the fit because the fronts are not supposed to overlap.


This is a picture of the neck/upper chest area of the jacket that indicates that there is too much overlap in this area. I think that I will increase the front princess seams from the shoulder to just below the bust a 1/2 inch on both sides to decrease the overlap in this area. Muslins do take extra time, but are well worth the effort.

I make notations on the muslin so I won't forget the adjustments I need to make. If these ideas work out, I'll transfer the reminders right on the paper pattern.


I've seen some great jackets produced since the challenge started. Believe me, I am picking up suggestions, ideas, and learning from you. I am trying my best to keep it simple with this jacket as I do have a habit of over complicating things. By the way I do plan on making a matching pencil skirt after the jacket is finished.









































October 5, 2009

NEW BLOG AWARD

Cennetta has honored me with this lovely award.
I actually do feel VERY honored to be recognized by such a great seamstress as Cennetta. I have to tell 7 things about myself to earn this award. Mmmmmm, I am such a blabber mouth that I've probably told everything on this blog already, but I'll give it a try...
  1. I am the eldest of four - 2 sisters and one brother. And I love them all dearly as though they were my children. They are not that cool about the my children part.

  2. I am a wannabe gourmet cook. I like to wow guests with the presentation of a meal (whenever I can find the energy to do so).

  3. My two sisters and I love decorating dinner tables. Consequently we are dish collectors. Have to stop myself from buying more.

  4. I collect cookbooks (although not as avidly as I once did). I had to stop buying them also. I still manage to add at least one or two new additions to the collection per year.

  5. I'm working on a Technical Studies Degree that sucks up my sewing time. (But you already know that, right).

  6. I'm an organizer/pack rat who can't quite get it together, I don't like to be criticized about it either. BUT CAN ANYBODY HELP!!!

  7. I am a bit of a homebody. Nothing pleases me more than a rainy Saturday or Sunday afternoon with no desire to go out. I also love company. Maybe I'm a bit of an oxymoron. What do you think???

I'm also supposed to nominate 7 other sewing bloggers for this award; so I nominate:


http://www.clevergirl.org/ Because I think she is just that. What a fitting blog name. She can refashion like nobody's business and is indeed a Clevergirl.


http://www.asewnwardrobe.blogspot.com/ I love finding new sewing blogs. This is one that I happened upon just a few days ago. Check her out, I'm sure you will like her style.


http://www.anothercreation.blogspot.com/ This nomination is a shoutout to my home girl from Elmira who is a wheez with BWOF patterns. We can all learn some things from her.


http://www.kims-kouture.blogspot.com/ I always like everything that I see Kim make.


http://www.trinilove.typepad.com/ This girl puts out an amazing amount of work with such flair.


http://www.sewsassyagain.blogspot.com/ Sew Sassy is another fashion producer. I can tell she loves her craft.


http://www.wannsew.blogspot.com/ JC is a stone researcher. She puts in an enormous amount finding information about sewing and sewing resources. Positiveness is the highlight of her blog....




October 3, 2009

BOOK REVIEW & THE GRAY JACKET'S TWIN...

By now you all know that I have a deep love of books and knowledge. Who am I kidding, I'm obsessed with books; I always have been. There is always room for more knowedge especially about a craft that you enjoy. I am constantly looking for new written resources to help me become a better sewist. I received this book this week:


Just how much do you need to know about using a serger? I've had my serger for a little over two years. At times I have considered owning it a Love/Hate relationship, so that lets you know that there is still a lot I need to learn about using it. A preview of this book has brought some interesting information to light. For instance, I was surprised to learn that my serger has two knives, I really thought it had only one. Now that is important to note for safety reasons. Another helpful thing I found in this book is what to do with what I call "serger tails". The book suggests two different methods for securing them. Did you ever wonder why your stitches unravel, or how to get a more professional sewing edge? Successful Serging will prove a very useful reference and just may turn my love/hate relationship to one of sheer joy.

NOTE: If you are interested in any of the reference books that I list in my blog posts, there is a link straight to Amazon.com on my right sidebar.



Well I went ahead with the Navy jacket as originally planned. I finished it today. I just wanted a couple of quick put ons for mornings when I don't want to search for clothing to wear to work. This jacket matches navy pants that I made from Simplicity 2700 way back in June. Both the gray and the navy outfits were initally planned for summer wear, but I ran into delays with getting them done. Even though we are clearly into fall now, I didn't want to let these things linger in fear of them becoming UFO's. They are done now and even though they will get minimal wear now that the season has changed, I am glad that I got them finished. (Faux Welt pockets complements of Sheila and they worked out great again.)







Now I'm on to some exciting garments for Fall. I have SEW many things that I want to make but have no concrete plans. My sewing thoughts are all over the place as usual, but I'm excited all the same. I am definately a Spring/Summer girl, but I so love fall fashion, fabrics and styles. I added some great fabrics to my collection over the summer that I think will work up into a great Fall work wardrobe. I can't wait to cut into them. Now it's time to start my jacket for the Go Channel or Go Home Challenge. I've got six weeks before the challenge is over...










September 27, 2009

MY FIRST FINISHED GARMENT IN A LONG TIME....


Well, today I finished my first garment since July. Seems like it took me forever to complete it. I showed my muslin of the jacket in my last post. I'm glad that I worked the muslin up because by doing so it let me know exactly what changes had to be made to the pattern. I did the complete jacket in the muslin excluding interfacing, hems and buttonsholes. Then I made sure that I marked the changes that needed to be made on the pattern since I don't think I'll be using the muslin as a pattern. This process made it seem as though I had made two jackets - which in actuality- I guess I did.


The faux pockets on this jacket are compliments of Sheila who pointed me to a Craft Stylish tutorial. Sheila that tutorial really fit the bill! It was easy to understand and follow because it actually repeats the instructions - I guess to make sure you get it. I had made pocket flaps before but never with this much success. I think they look much better than the patch pockets the pattern called for.

This was not a hurry up project - I took it nice and slow. Have you ever worked on a garment until you were almost sick of it? Well, that's what almost happened with this project. But determination won out, and I was able to finish it. The jackets fits very nicely after all, and I am quite pleased with my results. The matching pants to this jacket were made way back in June as this was supposed to be a summer suit. But school got in my way and I had to put all things sewing on the back burner. I didn't want to wait until next summer to finish this suit because I was afraid that if I did, it would become a UFO. With the nice weather we are still having here I should be able to get a couple of wearings out of it before I retire it for the fall/winter seasons.

Originally I had planned on making this same jacket in Navy blue to go with the other pair of pants made back in June. I got tired of the gray jacket, so now I'm not sure if I will or not. I'll make a decision on that tomorrow. I really need to get started on my Channel jacket soon.
Lastly, I did manage to get an "A" in both of my classes - PRAISE GOD! My last and final class starts on Tuesday, but should leave me with plenty of sewing time - I hope! I'll be completely finished with school on December 16th....

September 15, 2009

I LOVE MY SEWING ROOM

I know that I've said that here before - but it is really true. This is not my dream sewing room, but it is as close as I can get it right now. So although it is not perfect, I am still in love with it. I FINISHED my English class tonight (don't know my final grade yet, but will keep you appraised). I rushed right home to the sewing room after class BECAUSE I've got something on the drawing board....

A little while ago I had mentioned that I was going to be making a jacket to match two pair of slacks (one navy the other gray) I made several months ago. It's this McCall's pattern:

"McCalls 4878: Unlined jacket has standing collar, side panels, and patch pockets. Jacket has back vent"
(not sure if I want patch pockets. I'm trying to think of what other type would look better)

I needed to make something uncomplicated to get me back in the swing of things before I start my Channel jacket. Last night I started making up the muslin that I cut out about a month ago.

(front view)
(back view)
I went ahead and put the collar on although I really didn't need to at the muslin stage. But since I have not made this pattern before I did it to see if I would have any problems with it before I start the actual jacket. I needed to tweak the fit just a little after getting it sewn up, but the fit is fine now. I think I will go ahead and put both sleeves in while I'm at it to make sure they fit well.

I'm back to sewing and I have so many plans for Fall. It amazes me that although Fall and Winter are not my favorite seasons, I really love Fall clothes. I'm excited, and I'm off to build a working wardrobe for the Fall/Winter season....

September 12, 2009

I DECLARE MY INDEPENDENCE.....

For all practical purposes I finished my two class today. I've worked on a speech outline and speech observation paper since 8a.m. this morning. Both are all finished and will be tweaked in Monday night class. I'll give my final speech on Wednesday, and that class will officially be over. I submitted the final two English papers Wednesday night at 11:47p.m. Received my research paper grade of 90% this afternoon - that's the paper I worked on through the holiday weekend. Wheeew!...glad that's over. I'm waiting on one more grade from and need to attend one final English class (Tuesday) and then that one will be over too!

I'm celebrating ahead of time and have declared my independence "CALLING A SEW-A-LONG" with my friends for Sunday afternoon. I'll use the balance of today to:
  • turn my study room back into my sewing studio
  • cleaning the rest of the house
  • cutting out the muslin for my Chanel jacket
  • cutting out at least one more item to work on tomorrow
  • and planning a meal for my friends
It feels sooo darned good too!
I am so behind on sewing related things. First I'd like to do a review of a brand new book I have:
its David Page Coffin's new book Making Trousers for Men & Women.
You can click here to preview the book.

I was real excited when I found out about this book. Those who read my blog know that I am constantly looking for that perfect TNT pants pattern. There is nothing like a great pair of slacks. So easy to wear, so effortless to pull together a work look that professional and polished.
I have my moments, but for the most part I think I am a pretty good sewist. But, I am smart enough to know that I don't know it all...so I am also constantly looking for new information to HELP MYSELF OUT! I already think this is a great book. First of all, David Page Coffin, the man we know is so well versed in tailored shirt making is just as masterful with his new trouser teaching aid.

The book has the most wonderfully illustrative details. And in addition, IT COMES WITH ITS OWN DVD. I know the Dvd will be oh so helpful. I can't tell you how many times I've rewound it already - as in hey, let me see that part again. Ebony's husband Keith was kind hook up my DVD setup in my sewing studio several weeks ago. Now I don't need to run from room to room trying to sew and watch the instructional DVD. Thanks Keith!

One of the things from the book that I'm very eagar to try is Coffin's Front Fly application. I usually shy away from them and opt for the Mock Front Fly application instead. In doing so I always feel like I'm cheating. So this will be the first thing I attack with the new book.

September 10, 2009

NOT M.I.A....

...but rather MLA. I only have two more short papers to write, one speech to give, and three classes to attend. Next Wednesday at 7p.m. will mark the official end of this grueling 11 week quarter for me! It's been hard out here for a grandma. I have read, written, and used more commas than one could imagine. I still tend to over commatize (as I call it) they couldn't break me of that (lol). I've pulled some all nighters, and certainly some all weekenders, and as a result, hopefully I'll be able to come out of this quarter with to high "B's" or better.

I haven't sewn A STITCH since the first week of July. That did it for my summer sewing dreams - of course I didn't finish half of what I had planned. I think that next year, Lord willing, I'll have to start my summer sewing early, because I never seem to finish it. Just imagine how many things I could have gotten sewn up in 11 weeks. It has been torture! I have had to put EVERYTHING aside. I just didn't have enough brain cells to wrap around anything other than these two classes.

I did keep track of my favorite sewing blogs and commented here and there so you would remember me and know that I was alive. It was my way of relaxing and dreaming while I watched all of your sewing projects. I even cut out a jacket muslin - but that's about as far as I got with the jacket.

I joined the Go "Chanel or Go Home" challenge even thought I knew in all reality that I would not be able to start until after September 15th. I have my fabric and pattern, and need to cut a muslin for my Go Chanel jacket. I bought a couple of resource books, and read up on jacket construction just a little. I still need to get my lining, buttons and trim. I would so love to have some of those double "C" Chanel buttons - wouldn't that be nice. Well, got to get back to work...


August 16, 2009

HEY!!!

Blog SignatureBLOG SIGNATURE GONE HAY WIRE!!!


I'm just checking in so you don't think I've disappeared. I still have four more weeks left in this quarter - THEN I CAN FEEL FREE TO SEW AGAIN without guilt. It has been so hard! I work on my online class on the computer that's in my sewing room, and I haven't been able to touch the sewing machine in over a month. It's just awful!!! But, I did sneak and cut a muslin for this jacket today. It felt so good. I was operating under some type of delusion that I might be able to get the muslin stitched up today, but I was only kidding myself. But I did get it altered, cut out, and marked - that's better than nothing I guess. My plan is to make two of these jackets to match the last two pairs of pants that I made (I probably mentioned that before). If I can get these two unlined jackets made, I'll have two brand new suits to wear. That would make me feel so good!


I need to get those two jackets made before I start on the Chanel sew-a-long. I don't anticipate being able to start the Chanelish jacket until after September 15th. But I think starting on or after that date will give me plenty of time to get the jacket completed by November 15th. I have started pulling information together to assist me in making the jacket. I've got several threads articles that I've been reading up on as time has permitted; and I just ordered the Claire Shafer "Couture Sewing" book on this past Friday. I guess I won't pick out my lining, buttons, trim, and get my chain until mid September either, unless I just happen to run into something I like before that time. I don't want to start the jacket until I have good amounts of uninterrupted time to devote to it. I'll have a week and a half between quarters so I think that will be a good time to start. My next and FINAL quarter will start on September 29th. And on December 18th (end of the quarter) I am going to give myself a great big party - for finishing this degree and for my birthday!!!

That's all of my sewing related news - if you can call it news. I'm thinking about sewing, but thinking about it isn't sewing....or is it?

HEY!!!

I'm just checking in so you don't think I've disappeared. I still have four more weeks left in this quarter - THEN I CAN FEEL FREE TO SEW AGAIN without guilt. It has been so hard! I work on my online class on the computer that's in my sewing room, and I haven't been able to touch the sewing machine in over a month. It's just awful!!! But, I did sneak and cut a muslin for this jacket today. It felt so good. I was operating under some type of delusion that I might be able to get the muslin stitched up today, but I was only kidding myself. But I did get it altered, cut out, and marked - that's better than nothing I guess. My plan is to make two of these jackets to match the last two pairs of pants that I made (I probably mentioned that before). If I can get these two unlined jackets made, I'll have two brand new suits to wear. That would make me feel so good!


I need to get those two jackets made before I start on the Chanel sew-a-long. I don't anticipate being able to start the Chanelish jacket until after September 15th. But I think starting on or after that date will give me plenty of time to get the jacket completed by November 15th. I have started pulling information together to assist me in making the jacket. I've got several threads articles that I've been reading up on as time has permitted; and I just ordered the Claire Shafer "Couture Sewing" book on this past Friday. I guess I won't pick out my lining, buttons, trim, and get my chain until mid September either, unless I just happen to run into something I like before that time. I don't want to start the jacket until I have good amounts of uninterrupted time to devote to it. I'll have a week and a half between quarters so I think that will be a good time to start. My next and FINAL quarter will start on September 29th. And on December 18th (end of the quarter) I am going to give myself a great big party - for finishing this degree and for my birthday!!!

That's all of my sewing related news - if you can call it news. I'm thinking about sewing, but thinking about it isn't sewing....or is it?

August 2, 2009

NOT A LAZY BUM...JUST A BUSY BEE!

I really can't believe that I only posted once during the month of July! That is so not like me. But...I have not been lazy, just busy. My sewing has been some what thwarted because of SCHOOL - not the classes I teach, but the classes I take. Up until this quarter I've been coasting, only taking one class per quarter. But this quarter I was forced to take two classes because I want to finish this thing up in December and one of the classes wouldn't be offered again until January. So I'm involved in twice the number of classes and twice the work. Both of these classes involve an enormous amount of reading as well as writing. BUT WHAT IS ONE TO DO???? I did squeeze a few sewing related things however:

.A Sew-A-Long session with Ebony and Lisa on the 5th. It was nice and productive - that's when I started the maxi dress. AND, I got to meet Lisa's mother for the first time. She is a real sewing icon, and I loved talking with and getting to know her.

.My first fabric party at Ebony's on the 18th. Quite an experience. I loved fabric shopping in the comfort of her home, and picked up some really pretty pieces.

.I did complete two garments in July; the maxi dress and a pair of pants from Simplicity 2860. I haven't posted the pants yet, becaus
e they are part of a suit, and I get a chance to start the jacket yet.

.A fitting session with Lisa and Ebony on the 24th. Informative, helpful and a real learning experience that I am sure will prove beneficial for years to come.

.Joined the GO CHANEL OR GO HOME Sew A Lo
ng which is gearing up full force as I speak. I plan on seeing this one through, even though I keep asking myself - "WHAT IN THE WORLD WERE YOU THINKING?" I know I'm ultra busy right now, but the Chanel Sew a long doesn't officially start until September 1st and runs through November 15th. And since the making of a Chanel jacket is on my list of Sewing Goals for the year, this will actually be good for me. When I saw news of it I decided to jump right on the band wagon because I didn't want to get locked out like I did with the Coat Sew A Long last year. So, I am officially entered in. My classes end around September 16th and I think that even if I didn't start until that time I should be able to finish by the Nov. 15th deadline. After all I'll only be in the process of taking my FINAL class for this degree at that time. I have my fabric and four patterns to choose from already. I think the only thing I'll need to order is the trim for the jacket. I'm also starting to read up on Chanel Jacket construction and paying close attention to the Sew A Long blog. There's going to be a ton of inspiration and information that I can get there. I need to make a note to get the Claire Shaffer book "Couture Sewing", and I'm reading up on two piece sleeve construction. I should be good to go.

FABRIC GIFTED FROM MY MOM LAST YEAR
MY FOUR PATTERN CHOICES






Hopefully, August will be a much more productive month for sewing. I feel like I haven't even put a dent in my summer sewing....








Paying Homage to Black Pattern Designers...

...for years February has been set aside as a special time to learn about and recognize accomplishments of African Americans and other peopl...