February 2, 2009


I have often had problems with notched collar applications. Such was still the case with the two jackets that I recently finished. Now I know that there are more experienced sewers that will probably tend to disagree with the alternate method I used instead of following the pattern instructions - however, until I am able to experiment with this application further - I had to do what I had to do in order to get this project finished in a time frame and still be able to present suitable finished garments.

I worked with Butterick 4138 which had front and back facings.
  1. Reinforce inner corner of front pivoting at small circle. Clip to small circle.
Reinforce: Stitch along seamline where indicated using small machine stitches.

In the past I have not wanted to clip the fabric after reinforcing (I was scared to cut into the fabric), thus creating a problem in getting the collar to fit properly. So do clip; the line of reinforcement stitches will keep the fabric from stretching out of place or even tearing further than the clip.

2. Stitch fronts to back section together, and then stay stitch the neck edge.

3. Stitch under collar and upper collar together on sides and upper edge. Trim all edges and cut points.

4. Turn collar; press (taking the turn of cloth into consideration); baste neck edge of collar together. Pin collar to neck edge of jacket pivoting at small circle. Stitch.

5. Reinforce front facing just as done on jacket front. Clipping both front facings to small circle.
Stitch back to front facings.

6. Pin and stitch facings to jacket right sides together. Trim seams, turn and press.

I hope this makes sense and helps you out...


  1. This makes sense. I have learned that whatever works for me works whether it is the "correct" way to do something or not. That's the beauty of years of experience. You may just be the one to discover the BEST way to do something.

  2. Hi Faye,
    Thank you for your kind comment on my blog which has brought me to your blog and sewing world which I am grateful. I did reply to your comment, so do check back.
    Happy sewing,

  3. Hi Faye :)
    You know the saying "make it work"? Sometimes you have to do just that.

    I teach people sewing is like the computer. There are many different ways to end up at the same results. You can right click to cut and paste - you can go to file to cut and paste but basically all programs work the same. Sewing is the same. Just find what works best for you.
    I usually don't clip until after I sew. Sometimes it makes it harder to pin. And how you pin the fabric is how it's going to sew. Ya have to take your time pinning :)
    Your jackets came out great. Are the girls loving them?

  4. Thanks for the tips. I will definitely try this on my next notched collar.

  5. It's the clipping that is key! That was my issue when I first tried a notched collar over a decade ago. I was scared to clip and therefore it came out terrible. I finally tried again recently and it is so much easier than I remembered!

  6. Faye .- I understand that you have followed a good system. jackets are fantastic, and surely the girls will be happy.

    greetings, Paco

  7. This comment has been removed by the author.

  8. Thanks for your comment on my blog. I really like yours too. Yes, thank goodness Easter isn't until April. I get panicked when I think about having 4 grand daughters' dresses and one little boy's suit. I really put lots of work into Easter dresses, way more than for Valentine's. I do heirloom sewing on them. I smock some and embroider, etc.... Also with work and in March we'll be gone one week. I always get finished but I do panic. I didn't have a chance today to go through my stuff to decide what I'm doing. We're having a big bday celebration -80th- for my f-i-l this weekend. 2 events, so I've been really tied up.
    Again thanks for commenting on my blog. It's fun to know that people actually read it, and especially that they enjoy it.

  9. Thanks for sharing.

  10. Anonymous2/09/2009

    If you have to clip where you have machine stitched a reinforcement and are SCARED of cutting too far try pinning a straight pin along the machining then clip; the metal of the pin will stop the blades from cutting across the machining. Also works if you are cutting or slashing open a Buttonhole with scissors or a Seam Unpicker. Work from centre to one end then centre to other end.

  11. I'm also scared of clipping because I've often cut through the stitches so I'll definitely use Liz tip.

    I believe the way we do things is the right way whenever it works. Thanks for sharing!



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