November 1, 2015

#LINDA'S TIPS...

...UPDATE:  I am in the final stages of finishing my "Amazing Coat Sew-along" project (wowwee!) it's been a long 30 days people.


I've added the front facing/lining/upper collar unit to the outer shell of the garment and now it's time to "Grade" the seam allowances before turning the coat.  Of course I want it right -  so I Googled up some grading information.  Found this information at Madalynne.com that I thought I'd share here:


"trimming shouldn’t be done mindlessly – there should be reason to it – and the reasoning goes… the stitched edge will fall toward the seam allowance that has been trimmed closest to the stitching. So, if you want the collar to roll slightly to the inside (in other words – you want the top collar to roll to the under collar), trim the under collar seam allowance."


This method of grading helped because proper turn of cloth is very important to me.  I can see the  finish line...

24 comments:

  1. Faye, I totally follow you on the all importance of grading those seams. That's what I've doing yesterday; And yes it takes time, not to mention pressing but the time and patience it takes is fully rewarded by the results. Thanks for this quote, now I will remember which edge must be trimmed shorter.

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    1. I agree Marie - trimming, grading, clipping and of course PRESSING yields professional results every time. Yes, that's my problem too - I have a hard time remembering which side to trim shorter.

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    2. Me too! Thanks for the info. I know your coat WILL come out nice and look forward to seeing you model it.

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  2. Great tip... thanks for sharing.

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  3. Pom poms lying...you can do it Faye!

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    1. I know you meant flying Kyle (lol)! And thanks again for always cheering. I almost had a come apart yesterday.

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  4. Great tip. Thank you Faye.

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  5. You are almost there Ms. Faye....you are going to have another gorgeous coat! You have put so much detail into this project, and you are almost to the finish line! Look forward to seeing this lovely coat!

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  6. Good information. Can't wait to see the coat

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    1. Thank you Cinda. In 2 or 3 more days you'll get to see it!

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  7. Grading is extremely important in tailoring but I am taking issue with the advice. Once the seam is stitched grading the seam allowances will not effect any "favoring". Madalyne has her technique a bit confused. If you cut back the undercollar by a sixteenth or eighth of an inch, depending on weight of the fabric, before stitching to the upper collar, it will naturally pull the upper collar underneath as it will be smaller. This is BEFORE stitching. Once stitched, the seamlines of the upper collar/facing unit and that of the under collar/coat unit, should be tacked together inside along the neckline. This will hold the under collar in the proper position and give it the strength to keep pulling the upper collar underneath.

    I really like Nancy Zieman's technique for this, Faye. She has the undercollar understitched with a triple zigzag along the long collar seam only. That undercollar is going no where that way. That is the technique I use on most of my collars, coats or blouses. Hope this helps.

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    1. I just want to add that when grading the widest seam allowance is always the one facing the public side. It has nothing to do with favoring. I would be very interested in knowing where the original information was taught or written. I am always up to learn something new.

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    2. Hey Bunny, thanks for adding this information. I completely understanding what you are saying here and thank you for posting the correction here. I certainly do not want to post erroneous information or sewing suggestions. Thank you again!!!

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    3. Your welcome. I'll just add that if someone tries the original technique it will work because the collar is understitched, not because of any grading differences in the seam allowances.

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  8. Good information. Can't wait to see the coat

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  9. I'm with Bunny, under collars are trimmed before stitching to be slightly smaller to give the right amount of tension to pull to the underside The seam allowance facing the public side is always the widest and creates the smoothest transition to the ones beneath before any top stitching/pressing is done. Using steam and a wooden clapper make the edges super sharp and professional looking too. All these techniques are covered over and over in excellent tailoring books from seasoned writers and designers and have been handed down with love to us. Looking forward to seeing your finished project!

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    1. Bunny's information made me rethink the grading information posted above too. I agree.

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  10. I look forward to seeing the finished coat!

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    1. I'll be finished soon Linda.

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  11. This is great information. I have really butchered a few seams cutting incorrectly.

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