October 25, 2016

THAT'S THE WAY I LIKE IT...

...i ALWAYS make sure that I return ALL pattern pieces and instruction sheets to it's rightful envelope after a project is completed.  I HATE LOSING PATTERN PIECES.  So just before starting to neatly fold Vogue 9204 to put it away, I thought "you know you like this top enough to make another one - why not go ahead and do it now and keep this sewing thing moving".
 I went ahead and CUT again last night, but before I did - I made an adjustment to the sleeve cap that gave me a little fit when making the first top.  To quote Sandra Betzina, " No matter how skilled you are at sewing, it's difficult to create a professional looking garment if the sleeve cap is too big for the armhole.  You end up with obvious puckers along the seam line".   I HATE A PUCKERED SLEEVE! I too find that many patterns are drafted with too much ease in the cap.  Betzina says that sleeve caps can measure 1 1/2" to 2 inches larger than the garment armhole around the cap.

So I pulled out my trusty Power Sewing Step-By-Step reference book.

I've used Betzina's "Trick of the Trade" method of removing excessive sleeve cap ease numerous times, especially when installing knit sleeves.  I love this method, and the times that I didn't use it, I regretted.  I know that there are other methods, but this one has worked for me.

So my next project is all CUT and ready to go for the next sewing session, that's the way I like it.
Inquiring minds would like to know - How Do You Deal with Excessive Sleeve Cap Ease???

26 comments:

  1. Thanks for bringing this book back to my remembrance, Faye! I've been meaning to get this book, especially for this tip. I look forward in seeing your second version of this top, as the first one was lovely.

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  2. You are welcome and thank you Candice. This was one of the first books I purchased when I started sewing again in 2006.

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  3. That is a wonderful book. The fabric for our new top looks very interesting. Can't wait to see the results!

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    1. It is a great reference Irene.

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    2. It is a great reference Irene.

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  4. I need to get this book, especially if it's a good reference! Thanks for sharing Ms. Faye and good luck on your projects, can't wait to see them!

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    1. I'm very sure you'll like this reference Myra.

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    2. I'm very sure you'll like this reference Myra.

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  5. I have this book too - it's a classic. I don't remember where it was I learned to remove excess cap ease but I find it is important to do for a nicely fitting sleeve.

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    1. Making a sleeve adjustment saves me anguish Tomasa.

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    2. Making a sleeve adjustment saves me anguish Tomasa.

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  6. Ohhhhhh so happy you're sewing again and making another one of those beautiful tops!

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    1. Thanks Carolyn. Sewing again feels so good!

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    2. Thanks Carolyn. Sewing again feels so good!

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  7. I'm a Sandra fan and use a lot of her techniques and dictums. Her fly zipper method is my go to.

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    1. I like her front fly zipper too Bunny.

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    2. I like her front fly zipper too Bunny.

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  8. I tried to knock off my husband's favorite Hawaiian shirt and was stuck for months on getting his sleeve flat! I was all over You Tube and the internet, trying all sorts of adjustments but failing over and over. When I went home to visit Mom this past summer, I took my muslin and re-cut a sleeve like the original. She showed me her method, which was so simple I couldn't believe it. We lined the sleeve up at the center, sewed down one side with the sleeve flat; returned to the center and sewed down the other side. Then I trimmed any excess in the seam allowance. I'm not sure it would work for a lady's blouse, but it was perfect for his! :-)

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  9. I learned a quick and effective trick from Gentlemen Jim about two years ago. That is the method I use. Thanks for the input!!

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    1. I need to check out that method also Carol!

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  10. You go girl! Don't stop while you're on a role. Can hardly wait to see this next top from you. I remember you telling me about this technique and wouldn't you know it, I already had the book but hadn't used it much. Thanks for reminding me again Linda. It does work very well.
    Cecil

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    1. I am trying my best to keep this thing going Cecil. Yes, that technique does work very well, but it works exceptionally well on knits.

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  11. I like your next fabric! As for my sleeves, I actually like to put a little puff at the top of my sleeve, and gather it a bit 3" either side of the shoulder seam. If I want it dead flat for some reason, then I pin the sleeve so it fits right, moving the shoulder down on the sleeve piece, then cut off the excess so it's the same on both pieces, and save what I cut off so I know how to alter it next time. It isn't scientific, exactly, but it works for me. Now I need to look up that book; I think Santa is going to send it to my house.

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    1. Yours is an interesting method Marjie. Doesn't have to be scientific to me as long as it works, that's all that matters. The fabric for the new top is called Ditzy Silk - it's 100% poly but feels like a dream. I went through my stash and it felt like a perfect weight and drape for this pattern.

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